Eropkin's estate. darkness. Old Ostozhenka

At the end of one of the oldest streets in Moscow, in house No. 55 on Arbat, there is a memorial apartment for Andrei Bely. Here, on October 14, 1880, Boris Nikolaevich Bugaev, one of the fathers of Russian symbolism, poet, prose writer, critic, memoirist and literary researcher, was born.

The history of the house itself is more than a century older than the poet: the old manor house that forms the basis of the estate, rebuilt in the late 1870s according to the design of the architect Mitrofan Aleksandrovich Arsenyev, was built before the fire of 1812. Apartments in the apartment building were rented to teachers of Moscow University, one of which (No. 7) was given to the mathematician Nikolai Vasilyevich Bugaev, the poet’s father.

Boris Bugaev spends his school years in the apartment and graduates from Moscow University. The proximity of the Bugaevs to the family of Mikhail Sergeevich Solovyov, the grandson of the famous historian and brother of the philosopher Vladimir Solovyov, becomes fateful for the future symbolist. Frequent guests of the Solovyovs are Valery Bryusov, Dmitry Merezhkovsky, Zinaida Gippius, “senior symbolists”, the friendship with whom, which arose here, in house number 55 on Arbat Street, determined the further creative destiny of the poet. This is where his pseudonym “Andrey Bely” was born.

In 1906, Bely left his house on Arbat as a leading Moscow symbolist, having survived the death of his father and his first “mystical love” with Margarita Kirillovna Morozova. In 1902, the Solovyov family helped the poet publish his first book, “Symphony (2nd, dramatic).”

Having added a fourth floor, in the 1930s the house would be turned over to communal apartments, and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs would exist in it for another half century. Since 1987, apartment No. 7 has been at the disposal of the State Literary Museum named after. A.S. Pushkin, and already in 2000 the Andrei Bely Museum opened there.

The apartment, which occupies half of the third floor, has five rooms. Now the nursery houses part of the exhibition related to the poet’s youth. Here you can also find all the drafts and notes dedicated to the epic “My Life,” which included the stories “Kitten Letaev” and “The Baptized Chinese,” the main character of which, young Letaev, is endowed with many autobiographical features. Part of the exhibition dedicated to the poet’s mother is located in the parents’ bedroom. The exhibits tell that it was Alexandra Dmitrievna Bugaeva who instilled in young Bor an interest not only in poetry, but also in music and painting. A special place in the room is occupied by exhibits telling about the poet’s muses: Lyubov Dmitrievna Mendeleeva-Blok and Margarita Kirillovna Morozova.

Bely’s entire literary heritage: manuscripts, drafts, letters, books and photographs is located in the former dining room. And the living room has been restored to its historical function. Today, like the Bugaev family, it hosts creative meetings and musical evenings.

Today, the museum’s holdings already contain more than 1,000 units of manuscripts, typescripts and documents, among which one can find the autographs of V. Ya. Bryusov, N. S. Gumilyov, I. Severyanin and, thanks to private collections, they are constantly being replenished.

The former palace of the Moscow Governor-General P. D. Eropkin, built in the style of classicism, was erected in 1764–1772 years based on even more ancient chambers of the early 18th century. According to some reports, the project was developed by Matvey Kazakov or the architects of his school. Today this building is occupied by the Moscow State Linguistic University, and we are very grateful for the support of the “Russian Photo” initiative and the opportunity to photograph the interiors of its rector, and for the help in preparing this article - to the university teacher and author of the book “Moscow Commercial School” Irina Vladimirovna Zubanova.

As per tradition, before taking a photo walk through the building, let’s take a little dip into history. The former owner of the palace, Moscow Governor-General Pyotr Dmitrievich Eropkin, became famous for quelling a plague riot in the capital in 1771. Catherine II rewarded him in the usual way for that time - she bestowed the Order of St. Andrew the First-Called and offered land and peasants. Eropkin responded in a completely unusual way - he refused, saying: “Mother Empress! My wife and I are childless. Why add too much?”, and thereby became even more famous. By the way, Catherine II herself attended balls in this house. Peter Dmitrievich, according to contemporaries, was distinguished by “modesty and simplicity of dress, was courteous to everyone, did not grovel before the powerful, but forced them to respect their merits, was content with small incomes from a moderate estate and considered it humiliating to increase them through wine and smoking...” Eropkin died at the age of 81.

After the death of the Governor-General, the house went to his wife, and then to his nephews Novosiltsov and princes Gagarin, who in 1806 sold the estate for 35 thousand rubles to house the Commercial School. Since then, the building has not changed its purpose and has remained an educational institution for more than 200 years! In 1807–1808, the palace was rebuilt for the needs of the Commercial School by the architect D. I. Gilardi. The building acquired its modern appearance during restoration work after the fire of 1812. The renovated school building was three-story, and the center of the facade was distinguished by a ten-column portico raised to the level of the second floor. In 1833, it was included in the “New Guide to Moscow” with the following words: “A beautiful and huge building with a vast courtyard behind an iron grate on the street side. The front façade is decorated with a pediment of the Corinthian order.” At that time, only merchant and middle class children attended the school, a total of 63 students.

Recreational hall near the church.

Interiors of the Church of St. Mary Magdalene, built by Gilardi in 1807–1808 years and restored again according to the architect's drawings. S. M. Solovyov’s father served there and taught at the school itself. The great historian spent his childhood years in this building. On the second floor of the temple there are preserved paintings, presumably made at the beginning of the 20th century by M. V. Nesterov and V. M. Vasnetsov.

The writer I. A. Goncharov, scientists N. I. and S. I. Vavilov and many other famous people also studied at the Commercial School.
Opposite the church is the assembly hall, which was added to the school during the expansion in 1853 , carried out by the architect N.I. Kozlovsky. In the following photos, 17–18, you can see the hall with columns and the staircase, which appeared in the building at the end of the 19th century (1870s And 1890s years).

The original cast iron stoves are in the vestibule today. They have been preserved since the time of Eropkin, they are 250 years old! I hope that today’s students, walking across the slabs to class, realize their involvement in the history of this grandiose building.

Located on the outskirts of modern Kaluga, the village of Grabtsevo was once the patrimony of the wealthy Eropkin family. Finding the estate is not difficult - its location is indicated by a small plane mounted on a pedestal.

For more than half a century, the territory of the old estate was until recently occupied by the Kaluga Flight Technical School of DOSAAF.

A checkpoint from him remains near the main entrance to the estate.

In the second half of the 18th century, the estate belonged to Catherine's nobleman P. D. Eropkin, who for several years served as Moscow governor-general. It was under him that the Grabtsev estate ensemble was created.

Information about the history of the house is extremely contradictory. Evgeny Viktorovich Nikolaev in his book “On Kaluga Land” (“Art”, Moscow, 1968) writes: “The house in Grabtsevo was wooden. In front of it there is a front yard with a flower garden, on the right there is a utility courtyard with a separate gate. Neither the old house, Neither the outbuildings nor the outbuildings (except for one) have survived. The only one that has survived has lancet windows. It seems that the house was also “Gothic.”

Other sources claim that the Eropka house was originally brick. Further, opinions differ again: either in the second half of the 19th century, the new owners of Grabtsev built a new stone house on the site of a burnt wooden house, or simply rebuilt the old brick one, greatly simplifying its facades. However, none of the versions has documentary evidence.

But be that as it may, in 1950, the building that existed at that time was added a third floor and a flight school was located in it.

Later, a multi-storey educational and residential building was built on the territory of the estate park.

No matter how hard the last “aviation inhabitants” tried to kill the park, fragments of its old layout still remained.

From the house, standing on the top of a low, gentle hill, a wide central alley gently descends to a large pond.

The side alleys diverge from the central alley like a star. A huge pond is built in the bed of the tiny Gorodenka river.

Next to the large pond, another, much smaller pond was dug. The park was surrounded by a fence with turrets at the corners. One of the turrets has survived to this day.

On both sides of the front gate of the estate there are two service buildings.

One of them has lancet "Gothic" windows.

Perhaps this is the only building that has survived from the 18th century ensemble.

Outside the park there is a unique manor temple complex, clearly visible from the transverse park alley.

Until recently, the entire ensemble was in a terrible semi-ruined state.

The oldest church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, built in 1722, is still waiting in the wings.

Behind it you can see the already restored small chapel of Adrian and Natalia. In 2008, the restoration of St. Nicholas Church (built in 1791) was completed.

The ensemble is completed by a slender, bright bell tower.

The bell tower was erected at the end of the 18th century, work on its restoration was completed in 2010.

Many, many years ago, the outstanding art historian, architect-restorer Mikhail Andreevich Ilyin suggested that the architect Matvey Kazakov would participate in the construction of the ensemble of the Grabtsevo estate. The style of the Grabtsevo bell tower fully corresponds to the handwriting of the master. So it is quite possible that the Eropkin estate was developed, if not by the eminent architect himself, then at least by one of the students of his school.

The village of Grabtsevo was first mentioned in 1633. Since the 17th century, it belonged to the noble family of the Eropkins, which gave Russia two prominent social and political figures. P.M. Eropkin - architect, city planner, executed in 1740 during the Bironovschina. Suffice it to say that in 1771, Senator, General-in-Chief Pyotr Dmitrievich Eropkin, with legendary courage, suppressed a riot in the capital caused by the plague epidemic.

The ancient village of Grabtsevo stands on the banks of the Gorodenka stream, once a large river. P.D. In the summer, Eropkin came to Grabtsevo to his dacha and organized boat rides, fireworks, and mass celebrations on the pond (the partitioned Gorodenka River).

In 1722, a stone Assumption Church was built in Grabtsevo, which has four petals in its plan. The turrets of the fence and the bell tower, belonging to the school of the great architects of the 18th century - Bazhenov and Kazakov, are also amazing. The bell tower was built presumably according to the design of M.F. Kazakov in 1780 made of red brick with white stone decoration.

The main house, built in the Gothic style, has now lost its visual appeal, only arched windows remind of its former affiliation. On the sides of the building, two service buildings are symmetrically located in the fence, very close are the services, and behind is a regular park.

For a long time, the former estate housed KALTU - Kaluga Aviation Flight Technical School. It grew out of the flying club created in Kaluga in 1932, where the future twice Hero of the Soviet Union A.T. took the initial course of training. Karpov and Hero of the Soviet Union A.F. Solomatin. Pilot-cosmonaut S.E. Savitskaya also received a ticket to heaven at this school.

On the site of the orchard there are now multi-storey buildings.

You don’t even have to look for the manor house: it is in the very center of the village - its cultural center, since both the house and the adjacent territory have long been inhabited by a flight school.

The two-story main house (a third floor was added in 1950) was built in the mid-19th century in the Gothic style. The adjacent service buildings have also been preserved. The turrets of the fence are interesting.

The regular park is well preserved, especially the wide alley going down to the Gorodenka River.

The pond is the site of water festivals in the 18th century.

The Assumption Church is the eldest church of all the churches in the village of Grabtsevo.

St. Nicholas Church is a representative of the architecture of Russian classicism of the 18th century.

The bell tower is a typical example of neo-Gothic architecture from the late 18th century.

Chapel of Adrian and Natalia from 1815, erected over the grave of P.D. Eropkina

The temple complex of the estate is included in the federal program for the revival of architectural and art monuments of federal significance and is being actively restored.

The estate is included in the tourist route “Ancient Noble Nests” (Grabtsevo, Gorodnya, Avchurino).

It’s hard to believe that at the heart of the building at 38 Ostozhenka Street, which attracts the eye with its classical forms and ten-column portico, there are ancient chambers. But it is so.

Ownership history

The chambers were built in the first third of the eighteenth century and at different times they belonged to Prince Dmitry Andreevich Koltsov-Mosalsky and Alexei Vasilyevich Makarov, the cabinet secretary of Peter the Great himself.

After the purchase of the household by Pyotr Dmitrievich Eropkin, the architect rebuilds the manor house, skillfully incorporating part of the chambers into it. The work was carried out from 1764 to 1772.

P.D. Eropkin, being the Commander-in-Chief of Moscow (Governor General), was granted lands and four thousand serfs by Catherine the Great for suppressing the plague riot in 1771, but refused them, which earned him even greater respect from the residents of Moscow. He did not move to the house for governors general on the current one.

The owner was famous for his hospitality. The house hosted both luxurious balls for the nobility and dinners for the common people.

After the death of Pyotr Dmitrievich in 1805, the mansion was inherited by his nephews, the Novosiltsovs, who very soon transferred ownership to the princes Gagarin.

• poet and translator Efrem Efremovich Varyshev;
• genetic scientist Nikolai Ivanovich Vavilov;
• physicist Sergei Ivanovich Vavilov;
• writer Goncharov Ivan Alexandrovich;
• opera artist Ivan Vasilievich Gryzunov;
• philanthropist and theatergoer Sergey Ivanovich Zimin;
• Archbishop Jerome (Zakharov);
• Archbishop Leonid (Lobachev);
• writer Myasnitsky Ivan Ilyich;
• Rector of Moscow University Novikov Mikhail Mikhailovich;
• physiochemist Ivan Fedorovich Ponomarev;
• film director and artist Protazanov Yakov Aleksandrovich;
• scientist Roizman Matvey Davidovich;
• Soviet military leader Sevastyanov Andrei Nikitich;
• artist Chistyakov Nikolai Vasilievich;
• scientist-physicist Shubnikov Alexey Vasilievich.

In the period from 1807 to 1808, another reconstruction of the house was carried out, when it was significantly expanded to accommodate classrooms. The project was completed by an architect.

Unfortunately, a fire in 1812 caused significant damage to the structure and it had to be restored. At the same time, a partial restructuring was carried out. It was during that period that the third floor, a portico with ten columns, window frames, rustication of facades and stucco mascarons appeared.

On the first level, the vaults and fragments of the ancient chambers were preserved, on the second level they built a church in the name of Mary Magdalene, which was consecrated in 1816, on February 13. Work on the house was completed by 1817.

It is worth noting that in 1854 another room was allocated for the house church.

The history of the house almost ended during an air raid in 1941, when fascist pilots dropped a huge landmine on the courtyard area. Fortunately, it was filled with... sand. Thanks to the anti-fascists in the German military factories!

Today the building on Ostozhenka, house 38 is occupied by the Moscow State Linguistic University.

Facts and legends...