Tartu. Travel experience. How I saw Tartu: a falling house, a brewery, a restaurant from the Guinness Book and street art

I was already in Tartu about 7 years ago, passing through. We were then traveling to Riga, and Tartu was just a place to spend the night. The only thing I remember is the main street with shops. We didn’t even get to the old city then, although it was very close. So one could say that I did not see the city. And last week I had the opportunity to get to know him better.

We went to Estonia in a cheerful group at the invitation of the SKODA dealer in St. Petersburg - Auto Premium company. For us, there were five cars in the convoy: three Kodiaqs with different engines and an Octavia with 1.4 TSI. I've tested Kodiaks a couple of times before, and I've had one. But the restyled Octavia was new to me.

We started early in the morning. Traditional dressing on Nesta with French dogs and coffee:
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The Kingisepp highway is being expanded in some places. I hope to quickly catch the time when it will be possible to drive to Ivangorod along a wide highway with two lanes in each direction:
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We crossed the border quite quickly; there were few people who wanted to get to Narva by car. Immediately after the border we drove straight to Narva Castle. Half of the area in front of the castle is being reconstructed; on the left you can see part of an excavator.
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Ivangorod Fortress and Narva River:
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For the first time I visited the courtyard of the Narva Fortress. Before this, they were always rushing up to the tower:
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From here the best view of the border bridge across Narva:
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On the way, we stopped briefly in Toolse to see the ruins of a local castle on the shore of the bay. I launched a quadcopter here and took a banal photo. I'm afraid to fly the copter far without experience. Leaving here we encountered the police, who were called by overly vigilant local residents. They apparently found the convoy of seven cars suspicious, six of which had Russian license plates.
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Further along the route was Rakvere. We visited the castle, of course. I've been here 3 times, I don't get tired of it :) This time we were present when two shots were fired from a cannon. It was very loud! So much so that it is recommended to close your ears and open your mouth before shooting.
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March of local knights:
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We arrived in Rakvere. There is cool police museum. I recommend if you are passing by Rakvere:
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The museum staff advised us to spend at least an hour and a half on the tour, but we had about 30 minutes. We almost ran through the museum building.
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We hung out for a long time at the simulator, which is in the photo below. The simulator clearly allows you to evaluate a person’s reaction. You need to get into the “car”, press the gas pedal, look at the traffic light and catch the moment of switching from green to red. As soon as the red light comes on, you need to take your foot off the gas as quickly as possible and press the brake. The timer to the left of the traffic light shows the amount of time that elapses from the moment the light is switched until the brake is pressed. Right in milliseconds. Our record is about 0.5 seconds. And so that they understand: in this very short time, a car whose speed was 90 kilometers per hour will have time to travel another 12.5 meters.
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We drive on, taking selfies along the way :) I liked sitting in the back seat of the SKODA Kodiaq. There is a lot of space and it is convenient. But I like driving better, of course :) The whole way we tried to figure out how active cruise control works. No one found a way to adjust the distance between cars, although the lever was in sight :)
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We arrived in Tartu and first of all we stopped at the A. le Coq brewery. It is the oldest Estonian beverage manufacturer. The plant itself was founded in 1826, but its history began earlier. The company "A. Le Coq & Co" was founded in London in 1807 by the Belgian Albert Le Coq. Nowadays, the plant produces 11 different types of drinks: beer, ciders, lemonades, kvass, energy drinks and others.
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We walked through the production premises of the plant. I was impressed by the huge vats of beer, probably the height of a five-story building. We walked along the top of these vats and looked at our feet.
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Here beer is bottled and packaged into containers:
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From the production premises there is access to the roof, a kind of observation deck over the city:
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From here you can see the buildings of the city center:
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We arrived in the city center:
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We had dinner at the Powder Keg restaurant.
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It is notable for being included in the Guinness Book of Records as the restaurant with the highest ceilings. The distance from the restaurant floor to the ceiling reaches 11 meters.
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Solyanka in bread was tasty and very filling.
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A local observatory that no longer serves its function.
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Tartu has its own “Leaning Tower of Pisa” - the house in the photo below, which stands on Town Hall Square at a slight but noticeable slope. The house was built in the early 19th century after a great fire in 1775 completely destroyed the wooden city center. After this, they decided to build houses only from stone. Initially the house was of the correct shape. The area in Tartu is mostly marshy, the right side of the house stood on the remains of a stone wall, and the left on wooden stilts. Over time, the wood rotted and the house became warped. At the end of the 20th century, the house was restored, the floors were leveled and made a monument.
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What pleased me most was the mention of this bridge near the university building. It is called the Devil's Bridge. And there is a funny legend among students that the bridge will be destroyed only when a virgin graduate passes across it :)
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Then we had a street art tour in Tartu. This city, by the way, is considered the center of Estonian street art. Our guide was a girl who did not give her name. The organizers called her the “Estonian Banksy”. The photo below shows the most painted wall in Tartu, which is under the road bridge.
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Then we were led to an abandoned building and given a set of special cans of paint for painting. There is something hard dangling inside the can, like a ball. Before drawing, the can must be shaken.
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I can't draw at all. Therefore, I couldn’t come up with anything more original than drawing my nickname on social networks. I would like to note that painting evenly and beautifully with spray paint is very difficult. Even simple letters turned out awkward and tended to go down :) You need to draw with short and sharp strokes so that drops do not form.
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On the way back to Narva we stopped at Alatskivi Castle for lunch, and then to the Prichudye region, to the village of Kolka, where Estonian Old Believers live and work. We were given a master class on printing designs on fabric bags.
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Thanks to the company Auto Premium for inviting an organized trip, and to the guides and company Discover Estonia for excursions! Thanks to him, I saw new places in Estonia and got to know this country a little better.

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Tartu has many different snack bars and street eateries, but eating in them is unlikely to bring moral and aesthetic pleasure, so I advise you to pay attention to more expensive establishments. The prices there are slightly higher, but the quality of food and level of service are appropriate.

Hidden away in a small alley is a cafe called Zavood. There is never a dull moment in this place, and the most interesting thing is that completely different layers of local residents come here, from ordinary students to the city elite. The cafe is large, it consists of four beautiful and bright rooms. At the entrance there is a bar where visitors are offered to try local beer or whiskey, and the prices for these drinks are much lower than in nearby nightclubs and other establishments. At the bar you can sit on comfortable sofas, play billiards, and order various snacks to accompany your drinks. The cafe menu offers a large selection of different dishes (salads, appetizers, desserts). The price tag starts from 3-4 euros per dish, and then increases, depending on the order. The cafe is located near the town hall square and almost any local resident will tell you how to get there.

Despite the fact that the Crepp cafe is located almost in the very heart of the Old Town and is designed in the style of a Parisian cafe, the prices here are far from Parisian, but acceptable. The main dish on the menu of this establishment is pancakes with various fillings, but in addition to them you can order various salads, pies, and baguettes.

The situation with this establishment is such that whenever you go there, all the seats will probably be occupied and you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to wait for some time until a free table becomes available (especially during lunch and dinner). Thanks to the combination of delicious food and low prices, this establishment is considered one of the most popular of all that are located in the Town Hall Square area.

Be sure to check out the Werner Cafe-Lounge, as this is where visitors are offered the largest selection of cappuccino and the most delicious desserts in the city. The establishment began its work back in 1895. Considering that the cafe is located near the university, it is never empty or quiet. Prices can be called low, aimed specifically at local youth. Those for whom various drinks and desserts are not enough can go up to the second floor and have a full meal in a pleasant restaurant with a good menu (it opens daily at 11 o’clock).

If you still consider yourself to have a sweet tooth, then be sure to order the incredibly delicious carrot cake at Werner Cafe-Lounge (I’m sure you’ve never tried anything like it before).

There is also a real Italian restaurant in Tartu, La Dolce Vita, which employs Italian chefs who prepare authentic Italian cuisine. Most often, visitors order pizza and pasta. Local residents note that over the years, the quality of food in this restaurant has not gotten worse. During the warm season, a summer terrace opens in the restaurant's courtyard. For example, pasta with chicken costs only 7-8 euros and one serving is enough to fully satisfy your hunger.

Another establishment that can be classified as a confectionery is called “Pere”. This place is especially in demand during the cold season, as here guests are offered a large selection of tea and coffee, and in addition to this they offer various sweets, and the prices here are unusually affordable, one of the lowest in the city. There are also baguettes and hamburgers on the menu, but they are not in great demand among visitors.

Finding a good place to eat in Tartu can suddenly become quite a challenge. A fairly large part of the population of Tartu are students of local universities who prefer to spend money on beer than on good food, so it can be said that there are not so many, if not few, expensive luxury restaurants in Tartu. But in Tartu there are many cozy cafes, eateries that are open until late, small quaint restaurants, sushi bars and the like. Tartu is generally quite a romantic town, so it’s worth “tasting” it in full, along with its wonderful cafes.

And for those tourists who come to Tartu with a small amount of money, here is a hint where to go for lunch or dinner.

Vilde Health Cafe(Vallikraavi 4)

This cafe is well known among locals, who call this place an “island of tranquility.” This is a refuge for all those who want to escape the madness of the bustling city center. The cafe menu is focused on healthy and fresh food. For each dish on the menu, I write about its nutritional value and detailed composition - in short, we know what we are eating. A great place to grab a bite to eat and stay healthy at the same time. There is also a small corner for children in the cafe and a menu for children (also very healthy). The cafe is quite cozy and spacious. Try the magnesium smoothie at this restaurant.

Schedule: Mon-Fri: 09:00-19:00, Sat: 10:00-16:00

Opera Pizza(Vanemuise 26)

To find this cafe, you need to walk past the Vanemuine Theater and the university library. The cafe offers an undeniably impressive number of dishes and pizza options (order a slice of different pizzas to try more), most of which cost between 3-5 euros. This is a good place to escape from the hustle and bustle and relax after visiting the sights. Some call this restaurant the best pizzeria in the city.

Schedule: Fri-Sat: from 11:00 to 22:00, Mon-Thu: from 11:00 to 21:00, Sun: from 11:00 to 21:00

Metro(Raatuse 18)

This is one of the best and most inexpensive dishes where you can fill your belly with meat. The options are very diverse. You can order sandwiches with vegetables and sauces. Local residents claim that the sandwiches at this restaurant will be a magical cure for a nasty hangover after visiting local clubs and bars. The fact that the restaurant is just a few minutes' walk from the Kaarsild bridge and that the place is almost always open makes Metro the perfect place for a quick bite. You can often meet large, noisy companies here. The cafe is a bit like Subway, but a little simpler. And the prices are a little lower.

Schedule: Sun: 09:00-11:00, Sat: 09:00-05:00, Thu-Fri: 08:30-05:00, Mon-Fri: 08:30-23:00

Krooks(Jacobi 34)

This is one of the city's pubs that has stood the test of time. This cafe has many fans and regular customers who are used to dining here tasty and cheap. They say they make the best hamburger in town. By the way, if you look at the menu on the restaurant’s website, keep in mind that in reality the menu is much more limited. But still, everything is delicious! The pub is conveniently located on the edge of the center, making it convenient for people from all areas to come here. In the cafe you can see many families and rock and roll fans watching music concerts and sporting events on the big screens. By the way, live music concerts and karaoke nights are definitely popular here.

Schedule: Mon-Sun: 11:00-04:30

Pagari food(Raekoja plats 12)

One of the best places in town to grab a bite to eat. Warm bread with a crispy crust and various fillings - the aromas in the cafe are divine! In addition, here you can choose delicious bagels, buns and rolls, salty sticks, cookies and pies. But the choice is not too big, nevertheless. For some products the prices are very pleasantly low, while for others they are quite high, which is strange. Be sure to try the apple strudel here! The place is located here on the corner of Town Hall Square. The bakery offers fragrant breakfast rolls to take away. Forget about those extra pounds and pamper yourself in this cafe, you deserve it. And, as far as I know, you still cannot pay by card in the cafe, so please stock up on cash.

Schedule: Mon-Fri: 09:00-17:00

Kohvipaus(Rüütli 8)

To find this cafe, simply follow the aroma of fresh baked goods and coffee along Rüütli Street. The café-shop offers a selection of healthy food that ranges from delicious sandwiches to wraps and salads. You can also try the traditional Estonian dish kama - a mixture of roasted rye, oats, barley, peas, beans, which is mixed with fresh milk, curdled milk, yogurt, cream, or eaten with salt, honey, and it turns out to be a snack or a sweet dish on its own. . Coming back from the cafe, we can say that this is the ideal place to have a cup of coffee and a quick snack. You can sit inside the cafe or sit on the outdoor terrace if the weather is sunny. By the way, to try the freshest buns for breakfast, it is better to come early. And be sure to try the cupcakes - big and fragrant! It is also worth trying pasta, ham salads, lattes and chocolate cakes. Prices are super low.

Schedule: Sat: 10:00-18:00, Mon-Fri: 07:00-19:00

Lokaal Pirogov(Rüütli 2)

This is a great place for a cup of coffee in the afternoon and for a hearty lunch. In addition, the cafe always plays good music: interesting, pleasant and not too loud, so you can easily carry on a conversation with friends. By the way, the service in the cafe is also at the highest level! The cafe also offers hearty and relatively cheap soups, some traditional Hungarian, the best thing for a tourist who needs a refreshment! In this restaurant you can also order inexpensive beer and wine, as well as a wide selection of other alcoholic drinks (including at least three varieties of Pálinkás, a drink that cannot be tried in every cafe in Estonia. By the way, Pálinka is a Hungarian fruit brandy that is prepared from grapes, pears, apricots, plums, apples). Try delicious pies in this cafe!

Schedule: Sun: 17:00-01:00, Sat: 17:00-04:00, Fri: 11:00-04:00, Wed-Thu: 11:00-03:00, Tue: 11:00-02: 00, Mon: 11:00-01:00

Please recommend a cozy restaurant in Tartu. We'll arrive in the evening, it'll be Saturday, where should we immediately go for dinner? Maybe live music... The interior is beautiful... And not the most expensive. Estonian cuisine - what dishes are it?
Where can I have breakfast in the morning? :) in the center. The hotel did not order breakfast. Although this is probably easier.

Sections: Baltics/Estonia

Translation:
Every morning the bouquet of smells of warm baked goods from the oven takes your breath away. And freshly ground coffee will surprise again and again even our long-time customers. Our pastry chefs and bakers prepare delicacies that have no equal in Estonia. Quality is guaranteed by fresh ingredients, long traditions and all recipes and methods are jealously kept secret.

Werner - beloved and praised!

NB! You can also order from the restaurant menu at the cafe.

Geographically, we will stay at the Alexandri Hotel on Alexandri Street, building 42. Although the proximity of the restaurant-tavern to the hotel is not necessary. It's still not very far from the center itself.

Somewhat off topic. Are you by car or on foot? Please note that Alexandri Street is only numbered, the hotel itself faces the embankment and you need to go there along the embankment.

Small correction. The embankment is across the road (exit the hotel, turn left and reach the intersection) and there is no need to go there at all if your destination is the Old Town. I left the hotel - turned right - and continued straight along the street of the same name, until the big intersection where Hanza Keskus and Kaubamaya are located. A large construction site on the right side can serve as a landmark. a new center is being built there (shops, spa, etc.)

Personally, it was scary for me to walk in the winter darkness along the absolutely extinct Alexandri Street, along broken asphalt, past abandoned wooden houses. (During the day, it’s easy; it’s very useful for getting to know the local flavor.) That’s why I advised you to move along the embankment. By the way, to get to Alexandri from the hotel exit, you need to turn right twice. But, I repeat: I really don’t recommend it in the dark in winter.

It's already breathtaking! :)
We will be by car, but we plan to use it to arrive at the hotel and then leave it. We’ll go for a walk to the Old Town on foot, so as not to have to look for parking in an unfamiliar city. 1.5 km. We'll make it to the Old Town.
By the way, this will happen next weekend.

Julia_SPb, why is it so bleak? But there will be four of us.