Simple knot(Fig. 1). This is the simplest of all known knots. To tie it, you need to make a half-knot with the running end of the cable at its root end. It can be tied at the end or in the middle of the rope. To do this, the running end of the cable is carried once around its root part and passed into the resulting loop.

Depending on how it is tied, a simple knot can be left (Fig. 1, a) or right (Fig. 1, b).

This is not only the simplest of all knots, but also the smallest in size. When the cable is pulled, it becomes so tight that it is sometimes very difficult to untie it. The Russian folk proverb suits it perfectly: “No big knot, but a tight one.”

This knot, like no other, spoils the cable, as it bends it greatly. If, for example, to lift a weight, you use a new plant (hemp, manila or any other) cable, on which an untied simple knot remains, then the cable, although designed to lift a given load, will break, and in the place where the simple knot is tied node It is generally accepted among sailors that the strength of a new plant cable, on which a simple knot was tied under strong traction and then untied, will be half as strong as the strength of the same cable on which there was no knot.

Nevertheless, the simple knot has long been used in the navy. When working with plant cables, it served as a temporary means to prevent their heels and strands from unraveling. It was also tied at regular intervals of 20-30 centimeters on the inclined piers of the bowsprit and jib so that the sailors’ feet would not slip when working with the forward oblique sails. A simple knot was successfully used to attach wooden balusters to temporary storm ladders. Fishermen from some countries used this knot to take the so-called “Spanish reef”: they tied the upper corner of the jib to reduce its area. These are, perhaps, all the cases of the use of a simple knot by sailors in the past.

A simple knot can be useful in everyday life. Sometimes a person gets into trouble: during a fire, in order to save a life, he ties a rope in knots from strips of sheets. Usually in this case a straight or woman's knot is used (see below Fig. 25, 23). When using the latter, you need to tie a simple knot at the ends of the sheet strip. This will guarantee that the woman’s knot will not come undone under the weight of the person who will be descending along the tied rope from the window.

A simple knot is always used to tie at the end of a thread to prevent it from slipping out of the material, and to prevent the end of the rope from unraveling if a person does not know how to apply a mark. A simple knot, despite its primitiveness and the property of being very tight, is a component of many knots, which we will talk about later.

"Bloody" knot(Fig. 2). This knot differs from a simple knot in that its running end, being inserted into the loop, is once again wrapped around the root part of the cable. This almost doubles the size of the node.

The ancient inhabitants of Peru - the Incas - used similar knots with different numbers of schlags in the knotted writing they invented. By tying knots on ropes of a certain color and with the number of hoses inside each knot from one to nine, they counted to a five-digit number.

There are two ways to knit such knots. If the number of hoses does not exceed three, they are made with the running end of the cable inside the loop (Fig. 2, a), and if it is more, then the hoses are made around the root part of the cable and the running end is passed inside (Fig. 2, b).

Since the ancient times of the sailing fleet, such multiple simple knots were called “bloody” by sailors from different countries. The register of punishments for sailors in naval fleets of the past includes beatings with molts and whips, which were called “cats,” which are forgotten today. They were a braid woven from hemp rope, which had from seven to thirteen braids, but more often - nine. Each of the braids ended with a knot, on which there were from two to nine strands. “Cats” were divided into simple and thieves. The latter were more difficult. They were flogged for theft,

When punished with a “cat,” the offending sailor was lowered by the hands to a grated hatch, which was placed vertically on the quarterdeck, or to the barrel of a cannon. As a rule, the entire crew of the ship was lined up along both sides and the boatswain (or his assistant) struck the victim’s bare back with a “cat” to the beat of drums. The number of blows was in the dozens. Depending on the offense, the sailor could receive from one to twelve dozen as punishment. Usually, after the third blow, blood appeared on the back of the “guilty,” as the knots, tightly tied at the ends of the “cat” braids, cut through the skin (hence the name of the knot). After the first dozen blows, the bloody pigtails of the “cat” stuck together into one bundle and the blows became unbearable, the sailors lost consciousness and died in a state of shock. In order not to lose well-trained sailors in this way in peacetime, the British Admiralty in the middle of the 17th century issued a sanctimonious order: after the first dozen blows, the boatswain’s mate was obliged to separate the pigtails of the “cat” that had stuck together with blood. This procedure was called “combing the cat.” It was repeated after every dozen blows. But even the toughest sailors could not withstand six dozen blows, lost consciousness from pain and died.

In modern English, the idiomatic expression “To scraich the cat” is preserved - “to comb the cat”, which, recalling the barbaric punishment on ships, now has the meaning of “to relieve suffering”.

Nowadays, the “bloody” knot has lost its purpose and is used in other ways both in everyday life and in various professions, for example, in tailoring and bookbinding to thicken the end of the thread.

Eight(Fig. 3). This knot is considered classic. It forms the basis of one and a half dozen other, more complex units for various purposes. In the form in which it is depicted here, this knot in maritime affairs serves as an excellent stopper at the end of the cable so that the latter does not whip out of the pulley of the block. Unlike a simple knot, it does not damage the cable even with strong traction and can always be easily untied. To tie a figure eight, you need to wrap the running end of the cable around the main one and then pass it into the resulting loop, but not immediately, as in a simple knot, but by first bringing it behind you.

Rice. 3 – Eight

The number eight is widely used in everyday life. First of all, it is very convenient for securing the cable when it passes through a hole in an object, for example, in the wooden handle of an outboard motor rope starter.

This knot can be used for rope handles of a wooden bucket or tub, if the rope passes through two holes on the protruding ends of the wooden staves. In this case, having threaded the rope through both holes, the rivets are tied in a figure eight at its ends on the outer sides. Using two figure eights you can securely attach a rope to a children's sled. To prevent your hand from slipping off the end of the dog leash, we recommend tying a figure eight. In addition, it serves well for attaching strings to the pegs of violins, guitars, mandolins, balalaikas and other musical instruments.

Stevedoring knot(Fig. 4). Like the figure eight, this knot is a stopper for the cables passing through the pulleys of the blocks. It is knitted in the same way, but with the only difference that the running end is inserted into the loop after it has been wrapped around the root end of the cable twice. When tightening this knot, you need to make sure that the hoses at the root end do not twist and slip into the loop. A tight stevedoring knot is easier to untie if you pull the loop that is closer to the root end.

The name of this node is of American origin. It first appeared in Webster's English Dictionary in 1890. The compilers of this dictionary borrowed it from a manual on tying knots, published by the American rope company Stevedore Ropes.

Deadeye knot(Fig. 5). In the days of the sailing fleet, this ancient sea knot was used to tension the shrouds using cable lanyards and deadeyes. It was tied at the end of the lanyard in order to hold the latter in the hole of the deadeye. The diagram shows two ways to knit it. The first method (Fig. 5, a), based on a simple knot, involves inserting the running end into the loop from below between the root and annual ends and then passing it under itself. The second method of tying a deadeye knot (Fig. 5, b) involves tying a figure eight and pulling both ends into its corresponding loops, as shown by two arrows.

The peculiarity of the deadeye knot is that it is relatively easy to untie, even if it is tightly tightened.

Oyster knot(Fig. 6). Despite its name, this knot, like the figure eight, due to its symmetry, is successfully used by musicians for attaching the strings of a violin, guitar, mandolin and other musical instruments to pegs. In size, a tightened oyster knot is much larger than a figure eight, and therefore it is used in cases where the holes on the pegs for some reason are larger than needed for a particular string.

This knot has one peculiarity of tying: it is tightened in two steps (Fig. 6, a). First, tie a running simple knot (see Fig. 82 below) and tighten it. Having passed the running end of the cable into the loop, tighten the knot again. If the oyster knot is tightened in one step, then it is formed incorrectly.

In Fig. 6, b shows a diagram of an oyster knot, indicating its symmetry. In this form, it can serve as a good decorative ornamental knot for finishing a woman’s dress or as a pattern for embroidery.

Rice. 7. Multiple eight

Multiple eight(Fig. 7). Imagine that you need to tie a rope around a large cardboard box, a bale, or an old suitcase. Having done this, you discovered that one and a half meters of rope remained unused. By tying the running end of the rope around the part of it for which you have to carry this load, using a repeated figure of eight, you will not only shorten the rope, but also make a comfortable handle for this burden. The “multiple figure eight” knot can be used in all cases when there is a need to temporarily shorten the cable or exclude an unreliable part of its length from work if there is a fear that it will break. A multiple figure eight is a good handle for both a dog leash and a children's sled rope.

To make the knot even and tight, as you tie it, tighten each hose, moving it towards the previous one. If you later need to use the entire length of the rope, multiple figure eights are easy to untie. No matter how tightly it is tightened, this knot will not damage the rope.

"Fire escape"(Fig. 8). In the daily activities of sailors, steeplejacks, builders, firefighters, mountain rescuers and rock climbers, there is often a need to use a so-called pendant with musings. In the navy, a pendant is a vertically hanging plant rope attached to something with its upper part, and musings are thickenings on it, woven into it in the form of knots, at regular intervals. With the help of such cables, sailors board the boats standing at the side of the ship. But a manufactured pendant with musings is not always at hand when you urgently need to go overboard by rope or climb a steep wall if there is neither a ladder nor a storm ladder. Imagine, for example, this situation. A man fell from the deck of a ship in the port into the water. There is a loose coil of plant rope on the deck. If you throw the end to someone who has fallen, it is unlikely that he will be able to climb on board: the cable may be synthetic, and in the port there is usually a layer of oil on the surface of the water. The hands of a person who has fallen overboard will slide along a cable that does not have musings. In such a situation, the “fire escape” comes to the rescue.

As already mentioned, the simple knot is a component of many useful knots. The fire escape consists of a series of simple knots that are knitted one after another very quickly (20 knots can be tied in half a minute). It is magnificent in its simplicity and effectiveness, but requires skill and precision in execution.

Knitting this knot begins with the formation of a certain number of pegs wound behind each other. Take the running end of the cable in your left hand, stepping back 15-20 centimeters from its edge. Make the first pebble with a diameter of no more than 10 centimeters so that the root end of the cable is at the bottom. Then make exactly the same pebble and press it with the thumb of your left hand to the tips of the others. In exactly the same way, make 5-7 pegs, evenly laid one on top of the other. To prevent them from moving or getting tangled, put them on the outstretched fingers (except the thumb) of your left hand. You will get a kind of rope “cup”. Carefully remove it from your fingers so that it does not crumble or flatten. Now pass the running end, which you held in your left hand, inside this “cup” and bring it out on the other side. Place the “glass” on your left palm and clasp it on all sides with five fingers. With the bent tips of the fingers of your right hand, hold the upper hose of the “cup” and slowly, without jerking, pull the running end of the cable sticking out of the “cup” upward. As this running end is pulled out, simple knots will be tied on it. Their number will correspond to the number of pegs made, and the distance between them will correspond to the length of their circumference.

Using the described method, you can quickly tie knots, secure one end of the rope to the radiator, to the leg of the bed (table), throw the other end out the window and, if necessary, go down the rope (for example, in case of fire).

Such a situation is also possible. You need to pull out a car stuck in the mud. There is a long rope and people ready to help. To make it easier for them to pull, tie a “fire escape” on the ground so that the knots go approximately every meter.

II. NON-TIGHTENED KNOTS

Simple half bayonet(Fig. 9). A simple half-bayonet, being the simplest of non-tightening knots, is widely used in maritime affairs. It serves as the final element of many nodes. Wrap the running end of the cable around the object to which you want to tie the cable, then around the root end of the cable and pass it into the resulting loop.

After this, attach the running end of the cable with a grip to the root end. A knot tied in this way reliably withstands strong traction. He may move towards the object, but he will never be drawn in.

A simple half-bayonet is used to connect two cables with “foreign” and “own” ends.

Simple bayonet(Fig. 10). Two identical half-bayonets make up a knot, which sailors call a simple bayonet. The expression “throw half a bayonet” means adding to the knot already made one more carry and crossing the running end around the root end of the cable.

The diagram shows a non-tightening knot widely used in maritime affairs - one of the simplest and most reliable knots for attaching moorings to mooring bollards, bits, guns and bollards. To distinguish a correctly tied bayonet from an incorrect bayonet, the two loops of the knot must be brought closer together. If this results in a bleached knot (see Fig. 48), then it means that the simple bayonet was tied correctly. For such a bayonet, its running end, both after the first and after the second pegs, should extend equally above or below its end. For an inverted, i.e., incorrectly tied simple bayonet (Fig. 10, b), the running end after the second pebble goes in the opposite direction, not the same as after the first. When two loops of an inverted knotted bayonet are brought together, a cow knot is obtained instead of a bleached one (see Fig. 46). If the half bayonets of a simple bayonet are made in different directions, then when the cable is tensioned they will come together and the knot will be tightened. The main use of a simple bayonet in the fleet is to secure mooring ends to mooring fixtures, to secure the guys of cargo booms to the butts and eyes, and to secure the cargo pendant to the load being lifted.

The maximum number of half-bayonets in such a knot under any circumstances should not exceed three, since this is quite sufficient and the strength of the knot as a whole will not increase with a larger number of half-bayonets. The reliability of this mooring unit is eloquently demonstrated by the old English nautical proverbs: “Two half-bayonets saved the queen’s ship” and “Three half-bayonets are more than enough for the royal yacht.”

Sailors often use two simple bayonets to temporarily connect two mooring lines, cable and pearl lines.

On shore, this simple but reliable unit can be used in all cases when the cable needs to be temporarily attached to some object for strong traction, for example, to a hook when towing a car.

Bed bayonet(Fig. 11). For many centuries, the bed for sailors on ships was a canvas hanging bunk in the form of a hammock with a thin mattress made of crushed cork. In plan, it has the shape of a rectangle, the small sides of which have eight eyelets for the so-called pendant ropes.

Rice. 11. Bed bayonet

These pendants are connected in rings, which in turn are suspended by the berth pins to special eyelets in beams or to rods made in the ship's cockpit for hanging berths at night. During the day, the bunks, rolled up together with a pillow, blanket and sheet, were stored in so-called bunk nets along the side on the deck and served as a reliable parapet from cannonballs and shrapnel during the battle. In the evening, before lights out, at the command “Bunks down!” they were carried below deck and suspended. Tying a knot to hang a bunk is serious business. Here you need to use a knot that does not tighten, is easy to untie and holds securely. The most important thing is that it does not come undone on its own under the influence of the continuous rocking of the ship. Sailors used various knots to hang their bunks, but the bunk bayonet was considered the most reliable.

Simple bayonet with hose(Fig. 12). This knot differs from a simple bayonet by one additional hose around the object to which the cable is attached.

It also serves mainly for fastening cables and ropes when mooring using bollards, bits and poles, but is used, unlike a simple bayonet, in cases where there is no need to quickly release the mooring lines. This knot is also convenient for attaching a cable to a hook, fire, eye, etc. Two hoses around the object make this knot more reliable during long stays; in any case, due to the additional hose, it will not fray as quickly as a simple bayonet.

Simple bayonet with two slags(Fig. 13). In fact, this is also a type of simple bayonet. The difference from the previous node is an additional, third hose. It increases the strength of the knot if the cable experiences constant friction against the bollard or biting. Attaching the cable to the hook using this unit is a very reliable method.

Bayonet with drift(Fig. 14). If for a simple bayonet with two hoses the latter pass on the side of the attachment point of the root end, then with this unit they are placed one on each side. This gives the knot greater symmetry; when the direction of pull changes, the knot moves less along the object to which it is tied.

Fishing bayonet (anchor knot)(Fig. 15). One of the most important cases of using a knot in maritime affairs is tying an anchor rope to an anchor. Over the five thousand years of shipping, people could not come up with a more reliable knot for this purpose than a fishing bayonet. Tested by centuries of experience in maritime practice, this knot is recognized by sailors of all countries as the most reliable for attaching a rope to the eye or to the anchor shackle.

A fishing bayonet (or anchor knot) is to some extent similar to a simple bayonet with a hose (see Fig. 12). It differs from it in that the first of the two half-bayonets additionally passes inside the hose that clasps the object. When using this knot for an anchor, it is always necessary to grab the running end with a grip to the main one. In this case, even with very strong traction, the fishing bayonet does not tighten and holds securely. It can be safely used in all cases when working with cables when they are subject to strong traction.

Rice. 16. Reverse bayonet

Reverse bayonet(Fig. 16). When mooring ships to piers and moorings, a situation often arises when it is very difficult to enclose the running end of the cable around a pole or log. Sometimes you have to literally crawl under the pier in order to thread the end through a log or eye from the bow of a boat or boat. By using a reverse bayonet, you can wrap the rope around the desired object once and at the same time tie a knot with two hoes around the object to which you are attaching the mooring line. To do this, the running end of the cable needs to be folded in half over a length of 2-3 meters and, looping it forward around the object, pull the loop towards you. Now the running end of the cable needs to be threaded into this loop, and the slack should be taken out at the root end and the knot should be finished with two half-bayonets. The reverse bayonet is convenient for use in cases where access to the object to which you want to attach the cable is difficult or inconvenient for tying a knot, for example, to a tow hook for some brands of cars.

Towing unit(Fig. 18). This unit is used to secure the cable to the towing hook or biting. They can delay or release the towing end. Thanks to the sequential application of several cable hoses on the bit, the towing end can be pulled from the bit, and when the tension of the tow is weakened, it can be pulled out again in the form of loops thrown over the top of the bit.

Port hub(Fig. 19). Holding the synthetic mooring line on a pair of bollards is a simple matter. But what if, instead of a double bollard, you have a single bollard (or biting) at your disposal, and there is no light at the end of the mooring line? For this purpose, there are several original units in maritime practice. Let us explain the principle of one of them, which can be classified as non-tightening knots.

First, you need to make several hoses around the single bollard with the running end of the mooring cable. After this, fold the running end in half and in this form, in a loop, pass it under the tensioned root part of the cable, turn the loop 360 degrees and throw it on top of the bollard. This knot does not slip and holds securely. The cable can be released at any moment, even if the mooring line is under strong tension. To do this, you need to slightly select the running end passing under the root end and enlarge the loop, after which it will not be difficult to throw it off the bollard.

III. KNOTS FOR LINKING TWO CABLES

Oak knot(Fig. 20). Sailors use it only in exceptional cases, when there is a need to very quickly tie two cables together. Although connecting plant cables with an oak knot is quite reliable, it has a serious drawback: a tightly tightened knot is very difficult to untie later, especially if it gets wet. In addition, a cable tied in such a knot has less strength and during operation creates a danger of catching on something during its movement. Its only positive qualities are the speed with which it can be tied and its reliability.

To connect two cables, their ends need to be folded lengthwise together and, 15-20 cm away from the edges, tie both ends as one whole with a simple knot.

Do not try to tie synthetic cables and fishing line with this knot: it crawls on them.

Flemish knot(Fig. 21). This is one of the oldest maritime knots, which was used on ships to connect two cables, both thin and thick. In fact, this is the same figure eight, tied at both ends. There are two ways to tie this knot. The first one is shown in the diagram.

First, make a figure eight at the end of one of the cables tied together (see Fig. 3). Insert the running end of the second cable towards the exit of the running end and repeat the figure “8” tied on the first cable. After this, grab each two ends, left and right, and begin to tighten the knot evenly, trying to maintain its shape. To final tighten the knot, pull the root ends of the cables.

To connect two cables with a Flemish knot using the second method, place the running ends of the cables being connected parallel to each other so that they touch each other approximately along the length of one meter. At this point, tie a figure eight with two cables folded together. In this case, you will have to carry it around and thread it into the loop along with the short running end of one of the cables and the long main one. This is precisely the inconvenience of the second method of tying the Flemish knot.

The connection of two cables with a Flemish knot is considered very strong. This knot, even if tightly tightened, does not damage the cable, and it is relatively easy to untie. In addition, it has excellent quality - it does not slip and holds securely on synthetic fishing line.

Water node(Fig. 22). The connection of two cables with a water knot is considered no less strong. To tie it, place the ropes to be tied with their ends facing each other so that their ends run parallel and touch each other. Holding the running and root ends of two different cables in one hand, begin to knit an oak knot with them (see Fig. 20), but instead of one run-out of the root end, make two. Before finally tightening the knot, check that one pair of ends comes out of the loop from above, and the second from the bottom, as shown in the diagram (see Fig. 22).

The water unit is simple and reliable. It has not found wide use in the navy, because with strong draft it becomes so tight that it is very difficult to untie it.

Babi knot(Fig. 23). Let us make a reservation in advance that the author deliberately placed this knot in the book, as an example to explain the principle of other sea knots.

Woman's knot... How much irony and disdain can be heard from sailors towards this primitive and, unfortunately, knot that has firmly taken root in our everyday life! What sailors should not do is tie a woman's knot. A naval man who unluckily tied this knot even on the shore will certainly be ridiculed by his colleagues: they say, a disgrace for the fleet! But, alas, among land people this knot is a universal one. The vast majority of people who are not familiar with rigging, or those who, by their profession, do not deal with ropes, ropes, or threads, use the woman’s knot in all cases when they need to tie, tie, or tie. It seems that people, having learned this knot in childhood, believed so strongly in its utilitarian nature that they don’t even want to hear about any other complex sea knots. And, nevertheless, speaking seriously, this traitor node has caused a lot of troubles throughout the history of mankind and even claimed many human lives.

The Babi knot consists of two half-knots tied sequentially one above the other in the same direction. If you tie two ropes with it and pull it, you can immediately see that it begins to move along the rope and slide along it. And if it is tied close to one of the tied ends of the rope, then during traction it can slip and will certainly slip if the tied ropes are of different thicknesses. Unfortunately, not everyone knows about this and continues to use it.

In our country, this knot got its name due to the fact that from time immemorial women have tied the ends of headscarves with it (it is very convenient for this purpose). Abroad, it is called the “grandmother’s”, “stupid”, “veal”, “false”, “newborn” knot.

But, oddly enough, sailors and fishermen of some countries use the woman’s knot in their work. In addition to its negative qualities (sliding and not being untied), they caught one of its positive properties - under certain conditions, it instantly turns into a simple bayonet (see Fig. 10) - into one of the simplest and most reliable sea knots for securing the mooring of a vessel on the shore for a bollard, bollard or mooring bollard. But in order to tie a simple bayonet when mooring, you need to get off the ship ashore and do it directly at the fireplace or bring the end to the shore so that those standing on the shore can do it. But it turns out that a simple bayonet can be tied to the mooring bollard without leaving the ship ashore. And this is done with the help of a woman’s knot, despised by sailors... To do this, a loop is made at the end of the cable, which they intend to bring ashore for fastening it with a simple bayonet around the pole, the running end of the cable is connected to the root end with a woman’s knot, which is not fully tightened. From the side of the ship this loop is thrown onto the pole. When tugging at the main part of the mooring line, the woman's knot turns into a simple bayonet.

"Mother-in-law" knot(Fig. 24). Surprising but true. Some people, when tying two ropes together, somehow manage to tie a so-called “mother-in-law” knot, which is somewhat reminiscent of

Straight knot(Fig. 25). This wonderful knot is worth telling about it in more detail. Archaeological finds indicate that the Egyptians used it approximately five thousand years BC. The ancient Greeks and Romans called it Nodus Hercules - the Hercules or Hercules knot, because the mythical hero Hercules tied the skin of the lion he killed on his chest in this way. The Romans used a straight knot for stitching wounds and treating bone fractures. It consists of two half-knots, sequentially tied one above the other in different directions. This is the usual, simplest way to knit it (Fig. 25, a).

Sailors, who have been using this knot since ancient times to tie cables, use a different tying method (Fig. 25, b).

Weavers who use a straight knot to tie broken threads of yarn tie it in a special way that is convenient for them (Fig. 25, c).

The author of the book takes the liberty of declaring that a gross mistake was made in the interpretation of the characteristics of the direct knot and in the recommendations for its use, published in all domestic publications without exception. It has not been corrected to this day, they forgot about it and believed that this knot “reliably serves to tie two cables of approximately the same thickness” and that “it is very difficult to untie if it gets tight.”

This is what modern nautical reference books and textbooks published in our country in recent years tell us about the direct knot. “A straight knot is used to tie together two cables of approximately the same thickness. With strong tension and wetness, the straight knot becomes tight and can be very difficult to untie. Therefore, when tying thick cables with a straight knot, it is necessary to insert a “brake” into the knot (Handbook of Marine Practice. M.: Voenizdat, 1969, p. 192). Almost the same thing is said about the direct knot in the atlas of V.V. Grigoriev and V.M. Gryaznov “Ship rigging” (M.: Transport, 1975, p. 3): “The direct knot is used when tying cables of approximately the same thickness. When there are large loads on the connected cables, as well as when the cables get wet, the straight knot becomes very tight. To prevent excessive tightening, a wooden insert is inserted into the loops of the knot.”

The idea of ​​taking reefs with a straight knot will seem absurd to today's sailors. But it was with this, a straight knot, that in the days of the sailing fleet they took reefs on ships with a straight rig: in two reef seasons they tied the upper part of the straight sail panel to the reef line. The reef knot (see Fig. 94) was used to take reefs on small vessels (yawls, longboats and yachts), picking up part of the sail along the lower luff, and connecting it with the reef pins.

Several years ago, the author of these lines drew attention to the fact that in almost all maritime dictionaries and textbooks on maritime practice published in our country in the last century, the knot in question had two names - “straight”, and, as It’s not strange, it’s also “reef”. For example, let’s look at the “Explanatory Marine Dictionary” compiled by V.V. Bakhtin and published in St. Petersburg in 1894 (pp. 265–266): “The straight knot or reef knot (Reef Knot; Right Knot) is knitted from two ends .

First, a simple knot is knitted, then the end extended by the right hand is passed to the left, and the other end, taken above the first, is threaded under it and tightened. From this you can see that the reef knot consists of two simple knots knitted one above the other. The corresponding ends of both simple knots must be on the same side of the entire knot, only then it is called straight; otherwise an oblique knot will come out.”

Soviet Admiral K. S. Samoilov in his two-volume “Naval Dictionary” (M.–L.: Voenmorizdat, 1939–1941, p. 465) also gives a second name for this knot: “Straight knot (Reef Knot) - a knot that is used to tie two ends for weak traction, since with strong traction (if you don’t put a brake in the middle of the knot), it gets so tightened that it can’t be untied and will have to be cut.”

Having made an excursion into old and modern encyclopedias, reference books, dictionaries and textbooks on maritime affairs, published abroad, the author can state the following.

In English, the straight knot was and is still called “The Reef Knot.” This name was introduced into his naval dictionary by the English admiral John Smith in 1627. The term "straight knot" (The Square Knot) was introduced into the English maritime language by the American writer Richard Dana in 1841. He is known for the fact that, being a lawyer by profession, he hired himself as a simple sailor on a merchant sailing ship, sailed for two years and after that published the magnificent book “Two Years as a Sailor” and compiled an excellent English explanatory maritime dictionary. In addition to these two names, English-speaking sailors call the straight knot sailor's, correct, strong and ordinary. But the official and most common name of the knot, which we call a direct knot, in English is still “The Reef Knot” - a reef knot. Scandinavian sailors call it a reef knot: the Swedes - “Rabandsknop”, the Danes and Norwegians - “Raabandsknob”.

It turns out that the straight knot in the days of the sailing fleet was used primarily not “for tying together cables of approximately the same thickness,” but for taking reefs. Here is what is said about this in one of the best English maritime dictionaries on sailing - “Dictionary of Marine Terms”, compiled by A. Anetsd in 1897, which has since been regularly republished every 5-7 years in Glasgow: “The most common knot for tying is a reef, or straight, node. It is applicable in many cases, such as for tying the luff of a sail to the gaff, to the yard, etc., but it got its name (reef knot) due to the fact that reef seasons have always been tied with this knot.”

A precise and comprehensive formulation of the straight knot is given by René de Kerchove in his “International Maritime Dictionary” (New York, 1972): “A reef knot is a knot consisting of two half-knots tied in succession, used to tie together cables of the same thickness. Typically used for reefing sails due to the ease with which it can be unfurled.”

What we mean by the name “reef knot” (see Fig. 94) in all manuals on marine practice in English is called not just “The Reef Knot”, but “The Slipped Reef Knot” (sliding reef knot) or "The Draw Knot" and "The Half Bow Knot". Rene ds Kershov writes about it this way: “A sliding reef knot is a knot similar to a regular reef knot that is even easier to untie. Also called The Half Bow Knot."

How can a straight knot be untied, which, according to the characteristic unanimously accepted by our experts, is so tightened that it cannot be untied and will have to be cut?” A straight knot, even if wet and tightly tightened, can be untied very simply, in 1-2 seconds. Tie a straight knot as shown in the top diagram of Fig. 25, d. Take ends A and B in your left hand, and ends C and D in your right hand. Pull them strongly in different directions and tighten the knot as tightly as possible. After this, take the root end of A in your left hand (to prevent it from slipping out of your hand, make a couple of slings around your palm). Take running end B in your right hand (it can also be wound around your palm). Pull the ends sharply and firmly in different directions. Without releasing end A from your left hand, squeeze the remaining part of the knot into your fist with your right hand, holding it with your thumb and forefinger. Pull the root end A to the left - the knot is untied.

The whole secret is that when you jerk ends A and B in different directions, the straight knot turns into two half-bayonets and completely loses all its properties. It will also come undone easily if you take the root end A in your right hand and strongly pull the running end B to the left. Only in this case, end A must then be pulled to the right, and the remaining part of the knot (half-pins) - to the left. When untying a straight knot in this way, remember that if you pulled the running end to the right, pull the main end to the left and vice versa.

When untying a straight knot, one should not forget that, with whatever force it was tightened, one of its running ends must be pulled with the same force. Even a wet straight knot, tied on the thickest plant cable, which was under strong traction (without the brake inserted), can always be untied by taking one of the running ends onto a capstan or winch. In any case, there is no need to cut the cable.

So, the reader now obviously agrees that the characteristic of the direct knot, which has appeared for some unknown reason over the past seventy years in our country, is erroneous. Moreover, it is extremely important for our authors of manuals on maritime practice and rigging to reconsider the interpretation of the very essence of the direct knot and recommendations for its use.

Apparently, only in our country there is an unreasonably respectful attitude towards this unit. Sailors from other countries treat him more soberly and even with prejudice. For example, not a single foreign manual on knots contains such a dangerous recommendation for a straight knot, which is contained in the “Handbook of Maritime Practice” we mentioned: “A straight knot is used to connect two cables of approximately the same thickness.”

The Ashley Book of Knots (New York, 1977), widely known abroad, says the following about the direct knot:
“Previously, this knot had a specific purpose in the fleet - it was used to tie the reef seasons of the sails when they took reefs. Previously, sailors had never used it to tie together two ropes if the latter were of different thickness or make. It cannot be used to connect two cables that will be subject to strong traction. This knot creeps and is dangerous when it gets wet. After tying the knot, each of its running ends must be secured with a line to the root end.” Elsewhere in his book, Ashley writes: “This knot, used to bind two cables, has claimed more lives than a dozen other knots put together.”

The once famous American sea captain Felix Riesenberg, the author of one of the best textbooks for sailors in English: “Standard Maritime Practice for Merchant Marine Sailors” (New York, 1922) did not speak very enthusiastically about the direct knot. He wrote: “The reef, or straight, knot, as its name indicates, was used for tying reef seasons... This knot is used in many cases, although it can never be reliable enough if its running ends are not tacked. It should not be used for tying ropes for traction. This is a good unit for packing things, packages, etc.”

Unfortunately, many compilers of various manuals and manuals for riggers, builders, firefighters, rock climbers and mountain rescuers still recommend a straight knot for connecting two cables. Try to tie two nylon cables of “approximately the same thickness” with a straight knot and you will immediately see that even with not very strong traction, this knot does not hold, and if you accidentally pull on one of its running ends, it will certainly lead to tragedy.

And finally, finishing our discussion about the straight knot, we note that the most paradoxical thing here is that the ancient Romans called it a “women’s knot,” because it was with the “Hercules knot” that young Roman women tied the sashes of their tunics on their wedding night. The young husband had to untie this knot. And, according to legend, if he did it quickly, the bride was not in danger of infertility.

Thief's Knot(Fig. 26). At first glance, it is almost no different from a straight knot (see Fig. 25) and it seems that it is akin to it. But if you look closely, it becomes clear that the running ends of the thief's knot come out of it diagonally. The thief's knot, like the woman's and mother-in-law's knots, are shown for clarity in order to emphasize their similarities and differences with the straight knot. It is not recommended to use these four knots, as they are unreliable for connecting two cables.

The origin of the name “thief's knot” is curious. It appeared on English warships at the beginning of the 17th century. The theft of royal property and the theft of personal belongings of sailors on British ships were considered commonplace. In those years, sailors on warships stored their simple belongings and food, mainly in the form of biscuits, in small canvas bags. Naturally, the bag cannot be locked, it can only be tied. As a rule, sailors tied their personal bags with a straight knot. The thieves, mostly recruits who were not yet accustomed to the starvation ship rations, having stolen other people's biscuits, could not correctly tie the knot with which the bag was tied. They knitted something similar - a knot that the sailors began to call a thief's knot. There is a second version about the origin of this name: to prove the act of theft from a bag, the owner deliberately tied a knot very similar to a straight one, and the thief, not paying attention to the catch, tied the robbed bag with a straight knot. But be that as it may, the origin of the node, as well as its name, are associated with the fleet.

Surgical knot(Fig. 27). As already described at the beginning of this book, knots have long been used for various purposes not only in maritime affairs, but also in medicine. They are still used by surgeons to tie ligature threads to stop bleeding and to stitch tissue and skin. Nowadays, medicine has not yet abandoned the use of nodes, and doctors skillfully use them. During abdominal operations, surgeons have to apply sutures made of catgut (a special material obtained from the mucous layer of the intestines of a ram or sheep), which resolves after 3-4 weeks. When tying, the catgut slips, and when making knots on it, surgeons use special clamps.

During microsurgical operations, doctors use extremely thin suture material - a synthetic thread 10-200 times thinner than a human hair. Such a thread can only be tied using special clamps under an operating microscope. These threads are used when stitching the walls of blood vessels, for example, when replanting fingers, or when stitching individual nerve fibers. Mainly used are woman's, straight, bleached, surgical knots and the so-called “constrictor” knot, which will be discussed later.

When tying a surgical knot, first make two half-knots one after the other with two ends, which are then pulled in different directions. Then another half-knot is tied on top, but in the other direction. The result is a knot very similar to a straight one. The principle of the knot is that the first two half-knots prevent the two ends from moving apart while another half-knot is knitted on top.

This knot is convenient to use when there is a need to tighten and tie some elastic bale or burden with a rope and the tightened first half of the knot on the rope, without releasing its ends with your hands, has to be pressed with your knee.

Academic node(Fig. 28). It is very similar to a surgical knot, differing only in that instead of one second half-knot, it has two of them. It differs from its, so to speak, progenitor - the direct knot - in that the running end of the cable is wrapped around the running end of another cable twice, after which the running ends are led towards each other and wrapped around them twice again. In other words, there are two half-knots at the bottom and two half-knots at the top, but tied in the opposite direction. This gives the academic knot the advantage that when the load on the cable is high, it does not tighten as much as a straight knot and is easier to untie in the usual way.

Flat knot(Fig. 29). The name “flat knot” came into our maritime language from French. It was first introduced into his “Dictionary of Marine Terms” by the famous French shipbuilder Daniel Lascales in 1783. But the knot was, of course, known to sailors of all countries long before that. We don’t know what it was called before. It has long been considered one of the most reliable knots for tying cables of different thicknesses. They even tied anchor hemp ropes and mooring lines.

Having eight weaves, the flat knot never gets too tight, does not creep or spoil the cable, since it does not have sharp bends, and the load on the cables is distributed evenly over the knot. After removing the load on the cable, this knot is easy to untie.

The principle of a flat knot lies in its shape: it is really flat, and this makes it possible to select the cables connected with it on the drums of capstans and windlass, on the welps of which its shape does not interfere with the even placement of subsequent hoses.

In maritime practice, there are two options for tying this knot: a loose knot with its free running ends tacked to the main or half-bayonets at their ends (Fig. 29.a) and without such a tack when the knot is tightened (Fig. 29.b). A flat knot tied in the first way (in this form it is called a “Josephine knot”) on two cables of different thicknesses almost does not change its shape even with very high traction and is easily untied when the load is removed. The second tying method is used for tying thinner cables than anchor and mooring ropes, and of the same or almost the same thickness. In this case, it is recommended to first tighten the tied flat knot by hand so that it does not twist during a sharp pull. After this, when a load is applied to the connected cable, the knot creeps and twists for some time, but when it stops, it holds firmly. It unties without much effort by shifting the loops covering the root ends.

As already mentioned, a flat knot has eight weaves of cables and it would seem that it can be tied in different ways - there are 2^8 = 256 different options for tying it. But practice shows that not every knot from this number, tied according to the principle of a flat knot (alternating intersection of opposite ends “under and above”), will hold securely. Ninety percent of them are unreliable and some are even dangerous for tying ropes intended for strong pulling. Its principle depends on changing the sequence of intersection of connected cables in a flat knot, and it is enough to change this sequence a little, and the knot acquires other – negative qualities.

In many textbooks and reference books on maritime practice, published in our country and abroad, the flat knot is depicted in different ways and in most cases incorrectly. This happens both due to the negligence of the authors and due to the fault of the graphs, which, when redrawing the diagram of a node from the author’s sketches in one color, cannot always make out whether the end goes above or below the other end. Here is given one of the best forms of a flat knot, tested and tested in practice. The author deliberately does not present other acceptable variants of this node so as not to distract the reader’s attention and not give him the opportunity to confuse the diagram of this node with any other. Before using this knot in practice for any important task, you must first remember its diagram exactly and connect the cables exactly according to it without any, even the most minor, deviations. Only in this case will the flat knot serve you faithfully and not let you down.

This marine knot is indispensable for tying two cables (even steel ones, on which significant force will be applied, for example, when pulling out a heavy truck stuck half a wheel in the mud with a tractor).

Dagger knot(Fig. 30). In foreign rigging practice, this knot is considered one of the best knots for connecting two large-diameter plant cables. It is not very complex in its design and is quite compact when tightened.

It is most convenient to tie it if you first lay the running end of the cable in the form of a figure “8” on top of the root end. After this, thread the extended running end of the second cable into the loops, passing it under the middle intersection of the figure eight, and bring it above the second intersection of the first cable. Next, the running end of the second cable must be passed under the root end of the first cable and inserted into the figure eight loop, as indicated by the arrow in the diagram in Fig. 30. When the knot is tightened. the two running ends of both cables stick out in different directions. The dagger knot is easy to untie if you loosen one of the outer loops.

"Herbal" knot(Fig. 31). Despite its name, this elementary unit is quite reliable and can withstand heavy loads. In addition, it can be easily untied in the absence of traction. The principle of the knot is half bayonets with other ends (Fig. 31, a).

Packet node(Fig. 32). Its name suggests that it is convenient for tying bags and bundles. It is simple, original and designed for quick knitting. The packet knot is somewhat reminiscent of the grass knot. In terms of strength, it is not inferior to the latter.

Fisherman's knot(Fig. 33). In Russia, this node has long had three names - forest, fishing and English. In England it is called English, in America – river or waterway junction.

It is a combination of two simple knots tied with the running ends around the alien root ends. To tie two cables with a fisherman's knot, you need to put them towards each other and make a simple knot with one end, and pass the other end through its loop and around the root end of the other cable and also tie a simple knot. Then you need to move both loops towards each other so that they come together and tighten the knot. The fisherman's knot, despite its simplicity, can be safely used to tie two cables of approximately the same thickness. With a strong pull, it is tightened so tightly that it is practically impossible to untie it. It is widely used by fishermen for tying fishing line (not synthetic) and for attaching leashes to fishing line.

Snake knot(Fig. 34). This knot is considered one of the most reliable knots for tying synthetic fishing gear. It has quite a lot of weave, is symmetrical and relatively compact when tightened. With a certain skill, you can even tie the strings of a piano with it. To do this, the place where the string is tied must be thoroughly degreased and coated with shellac.

The snake knot can be successfully used to tie two cables made of any materials when a strong, reliable connection is required.

weaving knot(Fig. 35). In weaving, there are about two dozen original knots for tying up broken threads of yarn and for connecting new spools. The main requirements imposed by the specifics of production on each weaving knot are the speed with which it can be tied, and the compactness of the knot, ensuring the free passage of the thread through the machine. Experienced weavers are truly virtuosos at tying their ingenious knots! They tie up a broken thread in just a second. They have to do this without stopping the machine. Almost all weaving knots are designed primarily for instant tying, so that in the event of a thread breakage, uninterrupted operation of the looms is ensured.

Some of the weaving knots are very similar to sea knots, but differ from the latter in the way they are tied. Several weaving knots have long been borrowed by sailors in their original form and serve them reliably.

The weaving knot shown in Fig. 35, can be called the “sibling” of the clew assembly. The only difference is in the method of tying it and in the fact that the latter is tied into a krengel or into a sail, while the weaving knot is knitted with two cables. The principle of the weaving knot is considered classic. Truly this is the embodiment of reliability and simplicity.

Versatile knot(Fig. 36). This knot is similar to a weaving knot in its principle. The only difference is that in a tied knot the running ends point in different directions - this is very important when tying threads of yarn. It is not inferior to a weaver's knot in either simplicity or strength and is tied just as quickly. This knot is also known for the fact that on its basis you can tie the “king of knots” - the bower knot (see Fig. 76).

Polish knot(Fig. 37). It can be recommended for tying thin cables. It is widely used in weaving and is considered a reliable knot.

Clew knot(Fig. 38). It got its name from the word “sheet - a tackle that is used to control the sail, stretching it by one lower corner if it is oblique, and at the same time by two if it is straight and suspended from the yard. The sheets are named after the sail to which they are attached. For example, the fore-sheet and main-sheet are the gear with which the lower sails are set - the foresail and mainsail, respectively. Mars-sheets serve to set topsails, jib-sheets pull back the clew angle of the jib, and fore-jib-sheets pull back the clew angle of the foresail, etc. In the sailing fleet, this knot was used when it was necessary to tie the tackle into the fire sails in the middle, such as topsail-foil-sheet.

The clew knot is simple and very easy to untie, but it fully justifies its purpose - it securely holds the clew in the sail's crest. Tightening tightly does not damage the cable.

The principle of this unit is that the thin running end passes under the main one and, when pulled, is pressed against it in a loop formed by a thicker cable. When using a clew, you should always remember that it holds securely only when traction is applied to the cable. This knot is knitted almost in the same way as a straight one, but its running end is passed not next to the main one, but under it.

The clew knot is best used for attaching a cable to a finished loop, krengel or thimble. It is not recommended to use a clew knot on a synthetic rope, as it slips and can break out of the loop. For greater reliability, the clew knot is knitted with a hose. In this case, it is similar to a clew knot; the difference is that its hose is made higher than the loop on the root part of the cable around the splash. The clew knot is a component of some types of woven fishing nets.

Brake clew assembly(Fig. 39). Just like the clew knot, it got its name from the name of the gear - a top sheet, which is used to stretch the clew angles of the lower edge of a straight sail when setting the top sails. If a clew knot is used to tie single sheets of the lower sails, then a top-sheet knot is used to tie top-sheets and boom-sheets, top-halyards and boom-bram-halyards, as well as top-sheets.

A clew knot is more reliable than a clew knot because it does not immediately untie when the pull on the cable stops. It differs from a clew knot in that the loop (or krengel) is surrounded by the running end not once, but twice, and is also passed under the main end twice.

In the days of the sailing fleet, the top-sheet knot was widely used when working with gear. It was used when it was necessary to take some kind of gear into the fire, for example, top sheets and top sheets. Usually they got involved with the Bram-Gins in the Bram-halle and the Gins in the topenant of the lower yards.

The clew knot is also reliable for tying two cables of different thicknesses. It holds well on synthetic cables of equal thickness.

Docker node(Fig. 40). In maritime practice, it often becomes necessary to attach a much thinner cable to a thick rope. There is always such a need when a ship is moored to a pier, when one or several mooring lines need to be supplied from the deck. There are several ways to attach the casting end to a mooring line that does not have a light, but the most common of them is to use a dock knot.

To tie this knot, the running end of the thick cable to which you intend to attach the thin cable must be folded in half. Insert a thin cable into the loop formed from below, make one run around the root part of the thick cable, pass it under the thin cable, then over the running end of the thick cable and, passing under three cables, insert it into the loop. The docker's knot is reliable enough to use the throwing end to pull (or lift onto the deck from the shore) a heavy mooring line, and it quickly unties. It is best used as a temporary knot.

Furrier's knot(Fig. 41). It seems strange that this wonderful knot, long known to furriers, has still remained unnoticed by sailors. His scheme speaks for itself. It is relatively simple, has sufficiently crossed ends and is compact (Fig. 41, a). In addition, the furrier's knot has an excellent property: designed for strong traction, it is tightly tightened, but also untied without much difficulty. This knot can be successfully used for tying synthetic cables and fishing lines. In Fig. 41, b shows the second method of knitting it.

Liana knot(Fig. 42). This knot, although not widely used in the navy, is one of the original and reliable knots for tying cables. It is unique in that, with a very simple interweaving of each end separately, it holds tightly under very strong traction and, moreover, very easily unties after removing the load on the cable - just move any of the loops along the corresponding root end and the knot immediately falls apart. It does not slip on synthetic fishing line and can be successfully used by anglers.

Hunting knot(Fig. 43). The invention of a new knot by retired English doctor Edward Hunter in 1979 caused a kind of sensation in maritime circles in many countries. British patent experts, granting Huntsru a patent for his invention, recognized that the unit was truly new. Moreover, it holds perfectly on all lines, including the thinnest synthetic lines.

Essentially, a hunting knot is a successful interweaving of two simple knots tied at the ends of the cables. Dr. Hunter did not pursue the goal of inventing a new knot, but tied it completely by accident. Since the surname Hunter means “hunter” in English, here this knot is called a hunting knot.

IV. TIGHTENING KNOTS

Self-tightening knot(Fig. 44). Of all the primitive knots, this is perhaps the most original, as they say “it couldn’t be simpler.” A thrust commensurate with the strength of the cable can be applied to the root part of the cable of this unit, and it will hold securely. The greater the thrust, the more strongly the free running end is pressed by the hose, and the knot tightens itself. This is essentially the simplest form of a noose (see Fig. 65).

This unit should be used with great care. Always remember that it is only secure when it is tied around a log and constant force is applied to the root end. If this force is applied to the cable alternately, as if in jerks, then the running end may slip out from under the root end of the cable. It makes sense to use a self-tightening knot in cases where the load suspended from the root end is motionless and the direction of thrust to this end does not change.

This unit is convenient for hanging bags of grain or cereal on a crossbar in warehouses to save them from rodents. By releasing the running end of the cable, the suspended bag can be smoothly lowered to the ground or warehouse floor.

Self-tightening knot with half bayonet(Fig. 45). By adding one or two half-pins to a self-tightening knot, we will get a more reliable knot that can be used for various household needs.

Cow knot(Fig. 46). Despite its prosaic name, this knot is considered a good sea knot. It holds without fail if traction is applied to the cable. The cow knot is actually an irregular (inverted) bayonet that functions in a different capacity.

Since ancient times, this knot has been used on ships for attaching ropes to the outer shrouds using a line, and for temporarily securing the cable to the eye when stretching for cleating and tethering.

On the shore, in addition to the fact that cows (and also goats) are actually tied to a stake with this knot, it is used when pulling rope for fencing.

Blind loop(Fig. 47). If the running and root ends of a cow knot (see Fig. 46) are connected together and a pull is applied to both ends, then the knot thus obtained will already be called a blind loop. It is sometimes called a tag knot because it is very convenient to use for tying keys together, for storing washers and other items that have a hole, and also for tightening the neck of a bag when tying it.

Clove hitch(Fig. 48). This knot got its name due to the fact that on ships they have long been used to attach shrouds to the shrouds - transverse sections of resin cable that serve as steps for climbing the masts.

The bleached knot consists of two half-bayonets tied in the same direction. This is a very reliable tightening knot that holds flawlessly as long as traction is applied to both ends of the cable. It is extremely convenient for attaching cables to objects that have a smooth surface, such as a mast, yard, boom or just a log. In the days of the sailing fleet, in addition to its main purpose, the bleaching knot was used for tying the main ends of the topmasts on the topmast.

There are two different ways of tying a bleached knot. The first method is used in cases where one of the ends of the object around which the knot is tied is open and accessible (Fig. 48, a), the second, when the cable has to be carried directly around the object (Fig. 48, b).

The range of application of this unit in everyday life is very wide. With its help, you can attach a rope to a smooth post or crossbar, tie a bag, pull a rope between two posts, tie a string to a bow, moor a boat to a pile or stake dug on the shore, attach twine to a thick cable.

The tapping unit is very convenient for feeding a tool to a height (for example, a hammer when working on a mast). When weaving many types of fishing nets, the bleached knots form the first row of knitting.

However, when using a tapping knot, you should always remember that it is reliable only with a constant pull on the cable or rope. A variation of the buoyant knot is the buoy-rope knot, which serves to attach the buoy-rope to the trend of the Admiralty anchor. In the latter case, the running end of the cable must have a button and be grabbed to the anchor spindle with a claw or a bezel.

Rice. 49. Retractable bayonet

Retractable bayonet(Fig. 49). On sailing ships this knot found even greater use than the bleached one. This is explained by the fact that it is even more perfect and more reliable than the bleached one. It can also be used in cases where the direction of the cable pull is at an acute angle to the log (yard, mast, etc.) or to the cable to which it is attached. The retractable bayonet holds even if the thrust is directed almost along the log.

Unlike the tapping unit, the sliding bayonet has not two, but three hoses covering the object: one on one side of the root end and two on the other.

When tying this knot, it is necessary to take into account which direction the pull at the root end will be directed, and depending on this, tie the knot. It’s easy to remember: which side is the pull - there are two hoses. Once upon a time, a sliding bayonet in the navy was used to lift spar trees to the top if the cable had to be tied through their middle. They used it to tie the ends of gordenis when climbing onto swarms of fox-spirits. They also tied the block with the retinue to the yardarm and to the fox-spirit. The ends of the spiers were fastened with a whistle, also using a retractable bayonet. When the boats were standing near the side of the ship on a pendant, on a backstrap or towed, they were tied with painters to the can with the same retractable bayonet.

When using this unit in everyday life, do not forget that it, like the bleaching unit, is reliable only under load and does not like sudden weakening.

Fig. 50. "Constrictor"

"Constrictor"(Fig. 50). "Boa constrictor" is the zoological name for boa constrictor in Latin. Snakes such as the boa constrictor, python and anaconda are known to kill their prey by constricting them in three loops of their body.

The knot, known throughout the world by this name, is one of the most tightly tightened knots. At the same time, it is considered one of the most difficult knots to untie. As a rule, it is not even untied; it serves only once. The “constrictor” tightens well if it is tied to round objects that do not have sharp corners; in this case it is irreplaceable. This is a very useful and important unit for our everyday life. With its help, you can, for example, tie a bag very tightly, the valve of a soccer ball chamber, compress a leaking rubber hose, tighten a rolled-up carpet, bag, cotton blanket, tie the hand of a hooligan; apply a tourniquet to the wounded limb and much more. With this amazing knot you can lift the carcass of a dead bear without damaging its skin. To do this, you need to take a drek or a short strong stick, put it into the animal’s mouth, by its fangs, and tie the mouth with the stick with a “constrictor”. Attach its ends to the hook or weight pendant. Professional riggers use a “constrictor” to apply temporary marks to the steel cable in those places where it needs to be cut. By doing this, they prevent the cable from unraveling before permanent wire marks are applied.

Rice. 51. Double "constrictor"

Double constrictor(Fig. 51). Although this knot is more complex than the one just described, it tightens even more. It, like the single “constrictor”, is considered an indispensable tightening knot in everyday life.

Python knot(Fig. 52). Just as a python is almost no different from a boa constrictor, so this knot has no special differences from a “constrictor”. They are similar in principle. The python knot is applicable for the same cases as the “constrictor”. In addition, it can be very useful for tying two transverse slats (Fig. 52, b). Their connection using this knot will be much stronger than with nails.

For example, a python knot is convenient for tying the wooden slats of a kite. It can be used when constructing a wicker fence, when one rope needs to be tied to another at a right angle.

Mining node(Fig. 53). This unit is simple, original and reliable. It holds up well under constant load. Apparently, it got its name due to the fact that it was used in the mines. And although it is not considered a maritime knot, it can be successfully used both on land and at sea.

Picket node(Fig. 54). This knot is somewhat reminiscent of a bleached knot, although its diagram is different. It can be used for the same purposes. Apparently, it got its name from the fact that they used it to tie a cable to the risers when making pickets.

Gaff knot(Fig. 55). The name itself already indicates that it is from the family of sea knots. In our time, it has already been forgotten, apparently because the need for it has disappeared. You can always use it in everyday life when the need arises to quickly attach a cable to some cylindrical object.

Lisel knot(Fig. 56). On sailing ships, foxes were additional sails that were placed on each side of straight sails on special spar trees - foxes. With this knot, the fox was laced with pins to the fox rail. Although the foil knot is no longer used in the navy, it can be used to attach a cable to a round spar.

Hail knot(Fig. 57). On a sailing ship, straight sails, which were placed between the topsail and the lower yard, were called topsails. Depending on which mast the sail belonged to, it was called “main-topsail” on the mainmast or “fore-topsail” on the foremast. The gear used to raise the yards of these sails was called the main-marsa-halyard and fore-marsa-halyard. These tackles were attached to the yard with a halyard knot. Like the fox knot, the halyard knot is considered a reliable sea knot. It can serve a good purpose in our everyday life.

Pike knot(Fig. 58). It, like the two previous nodes, serves to attach the cable to cylindrical objects. The pike knot is much simpler than the halyard knot.

camel knot(Fig. 59). If you need to tie a thin rope to another thicker rope for pulling at any angle, we recommend using this extension knot. When tied correctly, it does not slip left or right. It is always easy to untie, even if it gets wet and is very tight.

Stopper knot(Fig. 60). When performing various shipboard works on deck, it sometimes becomes necessary to hold a cable under tension. This is done by using another cable attached with a stopper knot to the cable that needs to be held back. If the pull of the cable that needs to be stopped is to the right, then the running end of the stop cable is placed on top of the cable with the hose to the left, another hose is made with the poop and the running end of the stop cable is led towards the first and second hoses, clamped into them, and then to the right around the cable in a twist, making one or two more hoses, and in two or three places they put strong grips or secure them “under themselves”.

Swing unit(Fig. 61). When making your own swing, the choice of the cable and the knot with which this cable will be attached to the crossbar is of great importance. The reliability of your homemade structure mainly depends on this.
If you decide to make a swing in your country house or in the yard of your house, do not look for another unit.

Zigzag knot(Fig. 62). The name of the node perfectly matches its shape. When knitting this knot, the running end runs as if in a zigzag, first in one direction, then in the other. The zigzag knot is very specific. It is primarily used to pull and secure high stacks of cargo in an open truck bed equipped with high racks. If, for example, several hundred light boxes need to be transported on such a truck, then, first of all, they must be securely secured. This can be done using a long rope using a zigzag knot. It is best to secure the rope around the truck racks by holding a coil of it in your hand, otherwise you will have to pull the entire length of the rope each time.

Finger knot(Fig. 63). This simple knot is very convenient for securing the painter of a boat or boat to a pole, biting or single bollard. To tie it correctly, the running end of the painter needs to be folded in half, enclosed on the side, a loop passed under both ends and draped over the top of the pole.

Bitten knot(Fig. 64). It is also used for mooring small vessels for mooring on a biteng, pal or mooring bollard. The running end of the painter or mooring line is wrapped around the biting, then folded in half in a loop and passed under the main end. Here the loop is twisted once 180 degrees and placed on top of the biteng. This method of securing the mooring end is simple and quite reliable.

Rice. 65a – noose mating pattern

Noose with half bayonets(Fig. 65). A hundred years ago, in the sailing fleet, without this unit, the performance of many ship works would have been simply unthinkable.

A noose with half bayonets, along with a retractable bayonet, was used on ships to lift up spar trees - topmasts, yards, gaffs, etc. It was used to tie logs in the water for towing, it was used to load cylindrical objects, and loaded rails and telegraph poles. The same knot was used for fastening the main ends of topsail sheets, topsail sheets and other gear where it was necessary to have the ends ready for quick return. A noose without half-bayonets was often used to secure the mooring line to the shore pole.

This knot, proven by centuries of experience at sea, has long been used on shore. It is widely used by lumberjacks. In many foreign languages, the name of this knot is “forest knot” or “log knot.”

A noose with half bayonets is a reliable and very strong knot that is extremely tightly tightened around the object being lifted. The running end of the cable must be passed over the root end inside the loop towards the object being clamped. After the loop is surrounded by the running end 3-4 times, it is taken out of the loop towards the far end, from which there will be traction. At the same time, the noose is very easy and simple to untie when the traction on the cable stops.

In order to lift a tree trunk of several tons or a heavy metal pipe without risking human life, it is not necessary to have any special rigging equipment for a crane. You can get by just fine with a plant cable of appropriate strength or a steel cable. But for this you need to be able to tie this knot correctly. It should always be knitted slightly away from the middle of the log (pipe). Having removed the running end of the cable from the loop that makes up the knot, it is pulled towards the end of the object being lifted, from which there will be traction, and two half-bayonets are made. But, as a rule, two half-bayonets are made before the start of tying the noose, since the root end of the tackle is already secured (cassock 65, b). The slack of the cable between the noose and the half bayonets must be selected before lifting. Having lifted an object with a crane, it is better to deliver it to its place in one step, without lowering it to the ground. You should always remember that this unit must be checked before each lift (if it is carried out in two steps). It is also important in which direction to make half-bayonets on the log. They should be laid along the descent of the cable. Lifting heavy objects with a noose without half bayonets is considered dangerous.

V. LOOSE LOOPS

Oak loop(Fig. 66). This is the simplest loop of all existing non-tightening loops. It is knitted with a simple knot at the end of a cable folded in half. The oak loop is strong and safe, but it greatly weakens the cable by bending it. Unlike an oak knot, it can be used on a synthetic cable.
Its significant drawback is that the knot at the end of the cable is very tight and the loop is very difficult to untie.

Vein loop(Fig. 67). If, when tying an oak loop, you make an additional hose with the running end folded in half, you will get a loop that will be a little easier to untie (hereinafter in the diagrams a working loop is indicated by a cross). It is used for thin fishing lines.

Flemish loop(Fig. 68). Knitted in a figure eight on a doubled rope, it is a strong and easily untangled loop at the end of the rope. The Flemish loop is suitable for tying on both thick and thin cables. It weakens the strength of the cable almost insignificantly. It is used for fastening the strings of musical instruments and for other purposes.

"Honda"(Fig. 69). Archaeological finds indicate that this method of tying a loop is one of the oldest. Long before our era, people on different continents of the Earth attached the string to the bow in this way.

An additional knot at the end of the running cable serves as a stopper, which, when tensioned, does not allow it to slip out of the loop of the knot.

“Honda” is the American name for such a loop. It is still used to lasso cowboys in Mexico and the southern states of the USA.

Eskimo loop(Fig. 70). The Eskimos used this loop to attach the string to the bow. The official name for this loop is the Eskimo bow string knot. It has an important property for this purpose: its size can be changed after the knot has already been tied.

When pulled by the root end of the cable, the loop remains motionless.

Perfect loop(Fig. 71). The knot with which this fixed loop is tied at the end of the cable is simple, reliable and does not slip even on the thinnest synthetic fishing line. The perfect loop is very popular among anglers abroad.

Fisherman's Loop(Fig. 72). It is often called the English loop or fishing ogon. It can be tied either at the end or in the middle of the cable. When tightening, the knots need to be brought closer together. This loop is widely used by fishermen. Sailors use it instead of a factory fire when the mooring cable breaks and in cases where it is necessary to securely fasten the cable to an object.

Burlatskaya loop(Fig. 73). English sailors call it a harness loop or a Pushkar knot. Apparently, the sailors borrowed it from the artillerymen, who used this knot in cases where they had to harness additional horses or soldiers to the team on steep mountain roads or off-road conditions. This loop can be made either at the end of the cable or in the middle.

The Burlatsky loop is designed to apply traction in any direction. It ties easily and holds securely. True, before a load is applied to the loop, it should be tightened tightly by hand, since with a sharp pull it tends to turn over and slide along the cable for some time. Several loops tied in this way will help pull out a car stuck in the mud, allow you to climb to a height or descend from a steep cliff.

Riding loop(Fig. 74). Just like the Burlatsky, the driving loop is designed for traction in any direction and can be tied in the middle of the cable. It is knitted in a more complex way than the burlat loop, but it is more durable and reliable.

"Grass" loop(Fig. 75). This is another type of non-tightening single loop. Knitting it should start with a simple knot. It got its name from the name of the node to which it corresponds.

Gazebo knot(Fig. 76). People unfamiliar with nautical terminology may think that the name "gazebo" comes from the verb "to chat" or from the noun "gazebo." In our maritime language, the name of this unit comes from the “gazebo”, but not from the usual one, but from a sea gazebo, which is a small wooden board - a platform used to lift a person onto the mast or lower him over the side of the vessel during painting or other work. This board is attached with the help of cables to the lifting cable with a special knot, which is called the gazebo knot. Its second name is bowline. It comes from the English term “bowline,” which refers to the tackle used to pull back the sharpened side luff of the lower straight sail. This tackle is tied to the luff of the sail with a “Bowline Knot”, or simply a “Bowline Knot”.

It makes sense to dwell on this point in more detail. Indeed, it is admired by those who deal with cables and knot tying. This is one of the oldest and most amazing knots ever invented by man. Archaeologists testify that the gazebo knot was known to the ancient Egyptians and Phoenicians 3000 years BC. In English marine technical literature it is often called the “King of Knots”. Not every sea knot can compare with it in the number of positive properties it possesses. Taking into account the scope of its application and excellent qualities, the gazebo knot is rightfully awarded the royal title in the huge dynasty of maritime and non-marine knots. In appearance, it is similar to a weaving knot, but its running end does not go into the loop of the other end, but into the loop of its root end.

The gazebo knot, despite its amazing compactness, simultaneously contains elements of a simple knot, half-bayonet, weaving and straight knots. The elements of all these knots in a certain combination give the gazebo knot the right to be called universal. It is surprisingly easy to knit, even with strong traction it never tightens “tightly”, does not spoil the cable, never slides along the cable, does not untie itself, but is easy to untie when needed.

The main purpose of the gazebo knot is to tie a rope around a person under the arms as a means of insurance when climbing to a height, lowering overboard or in a smoky room during a fire on board a ship. A gazebo can be inserted into the non-tightening loop of this knot. A loop tied with a gazebo knot on the mooring line reliably serves as a firelight. This knot can be successfully used for tying two cables of any diameter or for tying a thick plant cable with a steel one (in this case, the cables are connected with loops, and the knots are tied at their root ends). Of all the ways to connect two cables made of different materials (for example, hemp and steel, Dacron and manila), connecting using two arbor knots with loops will be the most reliable. In addition, a reliable tightening loop can be made from a gazebo knot (see Fig. 85). It can be used for mooring and for attaching the cable to the hook. The gazebo knot can also be safely used to temporarily shorten the cable or in cases where it is necessary to exclude a worn-out piece of cable from work by tying the knot so that this piece fits on the loop.

There are many ways to tie a bow knot. The reader is offered the most rational and simplest one.

In life, the ability to quickly tie a bow knot around your waist can always come in handy. You need to be able to do this with one hand, with one continuous movement of the hand, in the dark, in 2–3 seconds. It is not at all difficult to learn this.

Take the main end of the cable in your left hand, and with your right hand, wrap the running end around your waist behind you. Take the running end in your right hand and, stepping back about 10 centimeters from its edge, hold it in your fist. Take the root end in your left hand and extend your left arm forward. Now, with the root end of the cable slightly stretched, with your right hand with the running end clamped in it, bend the root end of the cable from top to bottom towards you and up from you. Try to make such a movement with the brush that it does not completely fall into the loop. Next, wrap the running end around the stretched root end to the left and grab it with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand. While pulling the right hand out of the loop, simultaneously insert the running end into the small loop. Holding the running end with your right hand, pull the root end with your left hand. The knot is tied around your waist according to the pattern shown in Fig. 76. After doing this several times in a row, you will learn how to tie a bow knot on yourself in the dark or with your eyes closed.

Imagine this situation: you find yourself overboard a ship in the water, they throw you an end from the deck that you cannot climb up because it is slippery. By tying a bow knot around your waist and moving the resulting loop under your arms, you can ensure that you will be pulled safely out of the water onto the deck. This magnificent knot has saved the lives of sailors more than once. To untie the gazebo knot, it is enough to slightly move the loop of the running end along the weakened root part of the cable.

Double gazebo knot(Fig. 77). This knot, which has two non-tightening loops, is used instead of a gazebo to lift a person to a height, to raise or lower a person who has lost consciousness, and in other cases. When tying a knot, one of the loops is made almost half the size of the other. A person sits in one loop, the second loop clasps his torso under the arms. This allows him, having risen to a height, to work with both hands.

In maritime practice, there are several ways to tie a double bower knot. Let's explain the simplest one. The knot is tied with a rope folded in half. After inserting the running end (in the form of a loop) into the small loop of the knot, the end must be pulled out a little and, wrapped around the large loop, placed in the upper part of the knot. Holding the main part of the cable with one hand, pull the right side of the large double loop with the other hand. After this, the knot will be tightened and ready for use.

Boatswain's knot(Fig. 78). This ancient sea knot is sometimes called the “Spanish bower”. It, like the double gazebo, serves to lift a person up or lower him from a height.

Using a boatswain's knot, insert a foot into each of its two loops and hold onto the cable with your hand. This knot can be used to lift (or lower from a height) an unconscious person. To prevent him from falling out of the two loops, one or two half-bayonets are additionally tied on his chest with the running end of the cable.

French top knot(Fig. 79). The loops of this knot on the tops of the masts of sailing ships served to fasten the backstays, which were tied into them with a clew knot. The free ends of the knot were tied with a straight knot and thus a third loop was obtained, which was used to fasten the forestay. One knot simultaneously secured three pieces of standing rigging.

Top knot(Fig. 80). It was also used on the mast tops of sailing ships instead of yokes with butts (forged rings with brackets) for attaching backstays and forestays. This unit was used to attach temporary guy wires when installing masts and driving piles.

In English, the name of this knot is "Shamrock Knot", which means a shamrock (hare cabbage or wood sorrel), which is the emblem of Ireland. The knot can be used on the shore for attaching flagpoles and antenna masts, seedling trees, etc. If you have a jug, the neck of which has a more or less large protrusion; using the top knot you can make a comfortable handle for it.

But it is best, as the author of the book is convinced, to use this knot for carrying watermelons and large melons. After all, it was once used on military sailing ships to carry cannonballs. A piece of any cable 3 meters long makes a reliable basket for the largest watermelon. In this case, the knot should not be fully tightened, but its three loops should be tied with two free ends. Of the four known methods of tying this top knot, the one shown in the diagram is considered the best.

Rice. 81. "Southern Cross"

"South Cross"(Fig. 81). This romantic name was given to this knot by sailors of the distant past. It is sometimes called the "sea cross". In its essence, this is also a top knot, but of a different knitting method and principle. If you pull out three loops of the knot, it will be shaped like a cross (hence the name). This knot was used previously for the same purposes as the top knot.

VI. TIGHTENING LOOPES

Running simple knot(Fig. 82). This is the simplest knot that forms a tightening loop. When pulling on the root end, the loop is tightened, but it can be increased in size by pulling the running end away from the loop. A knot can be tied in any part of the rope. With its help, you can tighten a bag, tie a bale, attach a cable to something, moor a boat to a pile.

Sliding eight(Fig. 83). Based on the figure eight principle, this knot belongs to the category of reliable, tightly tightened loops. It has the property of being tightened smoothly and evenly when pulled at the root end.

Sliding blind loop(Fig. 84). This simple and durable knot can be used in everyday life to tighten various bales and packages when packing them. Tying the knot is extremely simple and does not require any comments.

Running bowline(Fig. 85) is the same arbor knot with a small loop into which the root end is passed. It is based on the lasso principle. The running bowline works flawlessly. In maritime affairs, it is used to catch floating logs and driftwood; it is used to search for and raise Admiralty anchors left at the bottom.

Silk knot(Fig. 86). This knot is borrowed from the simple technique of bird catchers. Snares made from horsehair or the thinnest nylon fishing line using such a knot work flawlessly. The snare knot is considered one of the smoothest and easiest knots to tighten.

Scaffold node(Fig. 87). The name of the node indicates its purpose. This is one of the ancient knots developed by the centuries-old practice of the death penalty by hanging. However, despite its gloomy purpose, it can be successfully used for many other purposes, for example, for temporarily attaching a cable to various objects.

Rice. 88. Tightening noose

Tightening noose(Fig. 88). Like the previous one, this knot is also called the scaffold, or “hanging” knot. But despite this, it also finds other uses in maritime affairs. It is used when temporarily attaching a cable to objects floating in the water or when throwing and securing a cable to an object on the shore. This knot has an advantage even over such a good knot as a noose with half bayonets (see Fig. 65), in that the running end of the cable cannot slip out of the loop, and therefore a tightening noose is considered more reliable.

On sailing ships, this knot was used to fasten the main ends of topsail sheets, topsail sheets and other gear in cases where it was necessary to have these ends ready for release.

To tie this knot, the cable is laid in the form of two loops of equal size. Both loops are surrounded several times with the running end of the cable, after which this end is passed into the loop facing the root part of the cable and, pulling out the outer loop, is clamped in it. A tightening noose can always be easily untied by pulling the main part of the cable.

This gloomy knot can be well used in maritime affairs in two ways. Firstly, according to its knitting pattern, it is convenient to store the cable in the form of a compact coil. By making this knot without a loop on the running end of the throwing end, you get excellent ease. If you find it not heavy enough, dip it in water before use.

“Drunk” knot(Fig. 89). This section of knots contains knots with two tightening loops. When the running and main ends are pulled simultaneously, the loops are tightened. From time immemorial, this knot in Rus' was called “drunk”: apparently, it was used to pacify excessively riotous people, putting loops on the wrists behind the back and tying the ends on the chest.

Shackle knot(Fig. 90). It is very similar to a “drunk” knot. Its name in English means “handcuffs”. The node can serve the same purpose. Despite the external similarity, these are two different nodes (see Fig. 90 and 89). In any case, without untying them and without removing the ends from the central loop, it is impossible to turn one knot into another. Some sailors call this knot a double masthead knot, since it is sometimes used in a similar way to the masthead knot (see Fig. 80).

VII. QUICK-RELEASE KNOTS

Untied simple knot(Fig. 91). This knot serves well as a simple stopper, which can be quickly released even under cable tension. When you pull on the running end, it will instantly come undone. It can be used in all cases when you need to temporarily secure something in such a way that the rope can be released at any moment.

Untied running simple knot(Fig. 93). A running simple knot (see Fig. 82) can be easily converted into a quick-release knot without changing its function, i.e. using it as a running knot, and not as a quickly untied knot. To do this, you need to insert the running end, folded in half, into its loop. In this case, it will have two properties at once - it will tighten and quickly untie if you pull the running end sticking out of the loop. With the help of this knot, you can moor the boat behind the shore bollard in such a way that, if necessary, the painter can be released without leaving the boat, by pulling the running end, which is left long enough. This is a very common knot. In any case, all over the world they use it to tie horses by the bridle to a leash. To prevent the knot from accidentally coming undone, the end of the bridle is inserted into the loop (Fig. 93. b).

Reef node(Fig. 94). It got its name from the word “reef-shtert” - a small end of the cable tied into the canvas of the sail, which was used to “take reefs”, that is, they tied a part of the sail selected to the luff of the sail or to the boom in order to reduce its area in strong winds . On large straight-rigged sailing ships, reefs were taken using reef ropes - the flat ends of the cable, which were used to tie the luff of the sail to the reef line. The reef-tzgerts were tied in such a way that at any moment, if necessary, they could be untied or, as the sailors say, “torn apart.” A reef knot was used for this purpose. It is very similar to a straight knot and is knitted in the manner shown in Fig. 25, except that when tying the second half-knot, its running end is threaded into the loop folded in half. When you pull on the running end, the knot instantly unties.

In maritime affairs, this knot is used for tying the tarpaulin covers of lifeboats, winches, compasses and other instruments on the upper navigation open bridge.

This knot is commonly known as a “knot with one bow.” It is familiar to everyone; many tie their shoelaces with it. In principle, this is a simple and useful knot.

Double reef knot(Fig. 95). It is sometimes called a halyard knot. But sailors almost never use it: a reef knot is enough for them to temporarily tie the rods and other ends together. In Vladimir Dahl's dictionary it is called a “loop knot” and “burdock (bow)”. It is often called a byte node. It is knitted in the same way as a straight knot, but in the second half-knot the running ends of the cable are tied folded in half. This is an indispensable knot for tying shoe laces, ropes, bows on the neck and bows in the hair, as well as on packages and boxes.

Kalmyk knot(Fig. 97). It is one of the practical and reliable units. Its name speaks about how it appeared in our country. And although the Kalmyk steppes do not evoke associations with the sea and ships, it has long been used in the navy. Foreign sailors do not know him, and, oddly enough, he does not appear in any of the numerous manuals on tying knots published abroad.

In practice, this beautiful knot is knitted almost instantly as follows. Place the running end of the cable behind the object and take it, stepping back a little from the end, from above with your left hand with your thumb towards you. With your right hand, place the main end over your left fist, in which the running end is already clamped, and make a full turn around it with the main part of the cable. Then, with the movement of your left hand, move the root end under the root part of the large loop while simultaneously moving the running end around the same part of the cable and then intercepting the running end with the fingers of your left hand. After this, carefully pull the running end in the form of a loop through the main end hose located on the left hand (by dropping the hose) so that the running end does not straighten, and tighten the knot with the main end.

The Kalmyk knot holds securely and quickly unties if you pull the running end. It is used for temporary fastening of the casting end to the mooring line when the latter is supplied from the vessel to the pier. It is used to attach reins to a bridle, as well as to tie a horse in a stable. If you pass the running end, not folded in half, into the loop of the Kalmyk knot, then the knot will not be a quick-release one. In this form it is called a Cossack knot.

Self-tightening knot(Fig. 98).

If you pass the running end, folded in a loop, into the loop of this knot, the knot will still retain its main property, but can be quickly untied if desired. To do this, you just need to pull the running end.

Boat knot(Fig. 99). It is used when towing boats and while they are parked under fire at the side of the ship only in cases where there are people in them. First, the running end of the painter is passed into the bow boat eye, then under the first can, then it is carried from above around the second can, the end is brought out above the cable and again under the can, then the end of the painter is folded into a loop and placed under a hose made on top of the can. The boat knot is easily untied by pulling the running end of the painter lying on the can.

Mill node(Fig. 100). Among the many clever knots for tying bags, this knot is considered one of the most common. In principle, this is the same figure eight, in the second loop of which the running end folded in half is passed. The knot is very convenient because it can be tightened tightly and quickly untied by pulling the running end.

"Wet" half bayonet(Fig. 101). Many knots, once wet, are difficult to untie. It often happens that ends have to be cut literally. It was for this situation that the sailors came up with a knot called the “wet half-bayonet.” It is used for fastening painters and mooring lines to bollards, bollards and bitings. It is designed for strong traction and quick recoil. No matter how tightly the knot is tightened and gets wet, it can always be quickly released.

Courier node(Fig. 102). It serves the same purpose as a wet half bayonet. After one carry around the pole, the running end is passed in a figure eight around the root end, then folded in half and inserted in the form of a loop between the loops of the figure eight and the root end. This knot does not untie as quickly as the previous one.

Bucket knot(Fig. 103). Imagine that a climber needs to climb down a rope from a height. He walks alone, and he has only one rope, which he still needs. What can you do to take the rope with you when you descend from a height? It’s very simple: you need to secure the rope with a bucket knot, go down along its root end and yank the long running end to untie the knot tied at the top. Using this “remotely untieable” knot, you can lower, for example, a bucket of water from a house window, place it on the ground and raise the rope up again.

Pirate's Knot(Fig. 104). The principle of this unit is the same as that of a bucket unit. The only difference is that the loop is done differently. These two original knots can be successfully used by climbers, firefighters and builders.

VIII. SPECIAL SEA KNOTS

Hook knot(Fig. 105). When the required sling is not at hand, the load is lifted by a crane or boom on a hook, using a regular steel or plant rope. In this case, they use a hook knot. This simple knot contains great wisdom. When the main end is loaded, the running end of the cable is pressed against the inside of the hook neck, and a loop tightened around its back holds both ends. When putting the cable on the hook, you need to carefully ensure that the root end of the cable always passes over the chassis. To prevent the hook assembly from becoming poisoned when the load is removed, the running end is grabbed with a temporary grip to the main one.

Using the principle of a hook knot, it is possible to lift a bag on the hook without a cable if its neck can be wrapped once around the back of the hook

Hook knot with hose(Fig. 106). When lifting a load on a hook using a cable tied with a hook knot, the thickness of the cable should be taken into account. If the cable is thick enough in relation to the hook, it can be tied with a single hook knot and the load can be lifted safely. A thin cable laid with a single hook knot can slide off the back of the hook, and if it is thin in relation to the hook, it is laid with a hook knot with a hose (see Fig. 106). This greatly increases the reliability of lifting the load.

"Cat's Paw"(Fig. 107). The name of this node came into the Russian maritime language from English. In this language it is called "The Cars Paw", which should be translated as "cat's paw". But due to some misunderstanding, this knot has long been called “cat’s paws”, although in English the noun is “Paw”<лапа) стоит в единственном числе, а не во множественном (Paws). Действительно, завязанный узел похож на лапу кошки. Этот узел применяют в тех случаях, когда строп нужно прикрепить к гаку с таким расчетом, чтобы не было лишней слабины. Чтобы завязать этот узел, петлю стропа кладут сверху на два его конца – получаются две небольшие петли, каждую из которых одновременно перекручивают наружу несколько раз в зависимости от того, на сколько нужно уменьшить строп. Потом петли сближают и надевают на гак. «Кошачья лапа» не зажимается намертво, и узел легко снять с гака, если на строп нет нагрузки.

Barrel knot(Fig. 108). This unit is used when there is no special sling or device for lifting full and open barrels in a vertical position. A half-knot is tied on the middle part of the cable, which is used to lift the barrel. The half loops of the knot are pulled apart and cover the middle part of the barrel. The lower part of the loop runs along the center of the bottom of the barrel, the free ends of the cable are tied with a straight knot, and if the cable is already secured at one end, then with a gazebo knot. The barrel unit is used when loading various types of containers that have a cylindrical shape. In everyday life, you can quickly tie it around a can or tank without a handle.

Bag knot(Fig. 109). In the navies of different countries, sailors stored their personal belongings in different ways - in bags, lockers and “suitcases”. For example, according to the tradition of the British Royal Navy, sailors' clothing was stored exclusively in canvas bags 3 feet long with a round bottom of 1 foot in diameter. Sailors in the British Merchant Navy were allowed to have wooden lockers measuring approximately 2.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 feet in the forecastle. In the Russian Imperial Navy, large and small “suitcases” made of gray canvas No. 6 were used to store the personal belongings of sailors. The large one was 2 feet 9 inches long, 1 foot 2 inches wide and 1 foot high. The small one was 1 foot 2 inches long, 1 foot wide and 9 inches high. Both had four to seven eyelets and a canvas flap. The canvas bags of English military sailors had 12 eyelets, which were tightened with a piece of line. To carry the bags, the sailors attached a piece of shtert to them, with which they tied them with a bag knot.

Welding unit(Fig. 110). Used in rigging, this knot gets its name from the word “pile,” which means an iron or wooden straight or slightly curved conical nail used for punching through strands of cable, aligning hand-sewn grommets, sealing cringles, and performing other work with cables and canvas. . For those who work with cables, the welding unit is very important. It is used when tightening a line or shki-mushgar during the laying of a cage or benzel hoses, which are laid on a pile (or fight) with this knot.

(In this case, the pile serves as a lever.) It was also used when the wall-shrouds were tightened around the windlass with a drake.

In addition, the piling unit is convenient for temporarily attaching any thin plant cable to various tools that have a handle when they need to be handed over to those working on the mast or overboard. The welding unit tightly grips the transferred object, and the latter can be easily pulled out of it. With the help of such a unit, you can attach mooring lines and painters to poles and bitings, conveniently attach rope fencing to stakes and posts, and make walkways.

Amphora knot(Fig. 111). For the inhabitants of the ancient Mediterranean, the amphora was a universal vessel. Olive oil, olives, wine, grain, flour, etc. were stored and transported in amphorae. The bottom of this vessel, as is known, is pointed, so it was impossible to place it on the ground: the amphoras were buried with the tip in the sand. When transporting amphorae by sea, their fragile handles often broke off, making it difficult to carry the amphorae. That's when the ancient Greeks came up with the amphora knot, which allowed them to conveniently carry these vessels without the risk of losing their valuable contents. This knot is not easy, it is difficult to knit, in several stages, but with its help you can make an excellent rope handle for carrying a bottle, jug, and in general any vessel with a small protrusion on the neck.

Gints knot(Fig. 112). Sailors call gynts small hoists, based between a block tied into some kind of tackle and another stationary block. To tie a block tackle into another tackle, a gypsum knot was used. On sailing ships, the Gints knot was used, for example, when tying the running end of the top halyard or when tying the running ends of the top yards of the lower yards into the slings of the Gints blocks. To do this, they wrapped the code end of the front lift halyard twice around the top of the sling of the Gintsev block and, directing the top lift halyard vertically over the running end, threaded a brake or a pile between the sling and the top lift halyard. This method of attaching a cable to a sling or thimble is simple, reliable and can be used in the middle of the cable. It can be recommended to modern riggers and builders.

Peg ("leg of lamb")(Fig. 113). In English maritime language this knot is called "Sheepshank", which means "shank of lamb". The knot received this name from the British due to the external similarity of its shape to a leg of lamb. In domestic manuals on maritime affairs, it does not have any proper name; it is simply called a “knot for shortening the cable.”

The famous Russian sea captain V.V. Bakhtin in his “Explanatory Marine Dictionary”, published in St. Petersburg in 1S94, calls this knot a “peg”. Maybe it’s not worth breaking the traditions of old Russian maritime terminology and returning the unit to its former name?

In the days of the dominance of sails at sea, when the length of the rigging on each ship was literally measured in miles, it often became necessary to shorten the rigging for some time so that the slack of the cables would not get tangled underfoot on the deck. Most often it was necessary to make pegs at the main backstays and forduns or the top backstays and forduns;

when the topmast or topmast is lowered. Shortening the cables temporarily was also done in other cases. Traditionally, sailors cut the cable under exceptional circumstances. And if, for example, on a ship 25 meters of cable are required for some work, and there is a free piece of 40 meters long at hand, then they will not cut it, but will shorten it to 25, making a regular “leg of lamb” on it in one of two ways (Fig. 113, i, b). For greater reliability, so that the knot does not accidentally come undone when the load is temporarily removed, the ends of its loops can be secured with a welding knot (Fig. 113, a).

The “peg” knot is used not only to shorten the length of the cable for a while. It is also used in cases where, during a critical operation with a cable (such as lifting a heavy weight), there are doubts about its strength: for example, one strand is frayed in one place or the cable is cut. To exclude this place from work and not subject it to stress, knit a peg. The principle of the peg is that the place of the cable crossed out in Fig. 113, g, does not participate in the operation of the cable, which is tied with this knot. At this point under load, the cable can be safely cut, and it will still hold the load for which it is designed for strength. When using this useful unit, one must not forget that it is strong and reliable only under load, and as soon as the latter is removed, there is a danger that the unit will fall apart. Therefore, before each use of a cable with a tied peg, the knot should be checked, or when tying a knot, attach the loops to the root ends with contractions.

Olympic knot(Fig. 114). It was called Olympic because it consists of five rings. This is an ancient sea junction from the time of the “golden age of sail” - the heyday of tea, opium and wool clippers. In English maritime language, the name of this knot is very sentimental - “Two hearts beating as one.” Despite the seemingly cumbersome nature of the knot at first glance, it is no more difficult to knit than the top one (see Fig. 80). The Olympic knot is reliable and specifically meets its intended purpose - to shorten the cable for a while.

Rice. 115. "Monkey chain"

"Monkey chain"(Fig. 115) The purpose of this unit is the same - to temporarily shorten the cable. Unlike the peg and the Olympic knot, it has the advantage that the rope tied with it with its loops does not interfere with work and can even be taken onto a pin. Before putting a load on the cable tied with this knot, you need to insert a pile or brake into the last link of the “chain” or pass the running end through it: otherwise the knot will instantly come undone.

It is knitted on thin cables with three fingers of one hand. This is done as follows. Stepping back about 10 centimeters from the edge of the running end of the cable, make a loop with a diameter of 5-6 centimeters. Holding the intersection of the cable on the loop with the fingers of your left hand, insert three fingers of your right hand into the loop - thumb, index and middle. Through the loop, grab the root end of the cable with the tips of your index and thumb, pull it in the form of a loop into the loop into which you inserted three fingers, pull it in a little, while leaving your middle finger in the previous loop so that the loops are the same size. As soon as you have pulled out the next loop, pass all three fingers into it and from it again hook the root end of the cable with two fingers, leaving one in the loop, etc. Knitting each link of the “monkey chain” takes no more than a second, while the cable is shortened four times (from 4 meters of cable, 1 meter of “chain” is obtained). The property of the “monkey chain” to quickly, smoothly and consistently untie is often used to perform various tricks in the circus.

Luchnikovskaya loop(Fig. 116). Some knot experts call it the "Turkish knot." This is one of the oldest and most amazing knots ever invented by man. It has a specific purpose - to regulate the tension of the bow string.

As you know, the string of almost any bow never remains the same tension. It, especially if it is made from animal tendons, strips of leather or plant fibers, can lengthen or shorten for various reasons, for example, air humidity and temperature. The bow itself can change its properties, be it made of wood or animal horns. The bow lay overnight on the damp ground - the bowstring became taut, the hunter sat with a bow by the fire - the bowstring weakened, etc. In a word, it often had to be adjusted, and this was done not so much by bending the bow itself, but by using a special additional vein with one end of the bow.

Crab's loop, or protracted fire(Fig. 117). The peculiarity of this knot is that it can work in two qualities: a tightening loop or a non-tightening loop. If the ends of the crab knot at the points marked with the letters A and B are sharply and strongly pulled in different directions, indicated by the arrows, the knot ceases to be tightened. Taking the form shown in the third position from the right in the figure, the knot is no longer tightened, its loop becomes permanent.

Capstan loop(Fig. 118). In its principle, this knot is the same as the previous crab knot. With a strong tug at the ends marked with the letters A and B, the knot changes its characteristics and turns from a tightening loop into a non-tightening loop.

The French word “capstan”, which once entered our maritime language and was at one time used in the navy, denotes the term “capstan” - a vertical single or double gate for selecting an anchor rope and moorings. Apparently, this knot was used on cables when working with a capstan .

IX. KNOTS FOR FISHING TACKLE

Blind node(Fig. 119). If there is a non-tightening loop at the end of the leash; The easiest and most reliable way to attach a fishing hook to it is to thread its end into the eye of the hook and throw it over the hook, forming a blind loop. This method is good for cotton lines and thin polyamide resins. It can also be used if the loop is made of soft wire. This method is convenient for tying sinkers to the fishing line.

Bayonet knot(Fig. 120). One of the simplest ways to tie a fishing hook to a fishing line is to use two half-bayonets made on the shank of the hook. It should not be used on synthetic fishing line, as it slips with strong traction.

Fisherman's eight(Fig. 122). This is an even more secure way of attaching fishing line to an eye hook. He gives a full guarantee that the hook will not come undone.

Turtle knot(Fig. 123). Why it was called that is difficult to say. After all, sea turtles are caught with a net or harpooned. This knot is very simple to knit and is good for cotton lines. Knitted with a slippery synthetic vein, it can come undone.

California Knot(Fig. 124). It was invented about thirty years ago by recreational fishermen in California for tying hooks, swivels and sinkers to nylon fishing line. It is relatively simple, quite reliable, but not very compact.

Step knot(Fig. 125). Many fishermen prefer to use hooks without an eye due to the fact that such hooks are usually forged and, in their opinion, more durable, but attaching fishing line to such a hook is more difficult than to one with an eye. The most reliable for this purpose is a stepped unit. It is somewhat reminiscent of a tightening noose (see Fig. 88).

Gripping unit(Fig. 126). This knot is half a snake knot (see Fig. 34) used to tie two synthetic cables together. It is suitable for any fishing line and is a very reliable knot.

Shark knot(Fig. 127). When tying this knot, before inserting the running end into the loop, you need to bring the hoses made around the root and running ends together and tighten them tightly. This complex knot is designed exclusively for synthetic fishing lines and is very durable.

Salmon knot(Fig. 128). Before tightening, it needs to be thrown onto the shank of the hook. The salmon knot is one of the strongest. It holds securely on any fishing line.

Tuna knot(Fig. 129). It differs from other knots in that the eye of the hook is clasped simultaneously by two loops (like a blind loop). Although it is difficult to knit, it is considered the best among all fishing knots designed for synthetic fishing line.

Leash based on a simple knot(Fig. 130). The ability to quickly and reliably tie leashes to a fishing line is important for every angler. This unit is recommended for quickly changing cross leads.

First you need to tie a simple knot on the fishing line, without tightening it completely. Pass a transverse leash with hooks at each end into the middle of the half-knot, around the loop and back to the middle of the half-knot, as shown in the diagram. Having equalized the length of both leashes, tighten the knot. If you want to tie only one leader to the line, tie a figure eight at the opposite end and pull the leader all the way until the figure eight rests on a simple knot.

Leading based on a running knot(Fig. 131). To tie a transverse leash to a fishing line in this way, tie a running simple knot in the desired place on the fishing line, but do not tighten it completely. At the end of the leash, tie a figure eight and pass this end into the loop of the running knot. After tightening the last knot as shown in Fig. 131, you will securely attach the leash to the fishing line.

Leash based on a snake knot(Fig. 132). This is a more complex, but also more reliable way of tying a transverse leash to a fishing line. Before tightening the snake knot made on the fishing line, insert the end of the leash with a figure eight tied into its middle. When tightening the snake knot, both parts will come together and securely clamp the leash in front of the figure eight.

Roller unit(Fig. 133). To tie this knot on the fishing line, you first need to make a simple knot and insert the running end of the leash into it. The latter must be secured like a multiple figure eight (see Fig. 7) around the fishing line and the root end of the leash. This type of fastening is quite reliable and uncomplicated.

X. DECORATIVE KNOTS

Strict, symmetrical, and often ornate and very complex in form, knot patterns have long been used in applied art to create heraldic signs, coats of arms, emblems, brand names, seals and vignettes. Tailors often used knot patterns for braiding and trimming of ceremonial uniforms and ladies' ball gowns. Many patterns of tied but not tightened knots are used for finishing products by lacemakers and embroiderers, as well as when weaving macrame. The most common patterns are patterns of the straight, Flemish, flat and top knots already familiar to the reader, which symbolize navigation and service at sea.

In addition to the listed knots, many other beautiful knots can be used in applied arts. However, in this chapter we give only six. This is explained by the fact that the theme of the book is knots that are knitted with unbroken cable, and diagrams and drawings of all kinds of buttons, musings, splices, lights and braids would take it beyond the scope of this topic. After all, the author’s task was to demonstrate the knitting and use of knots that are knitted with a cable without using its individual components - such as strands, strands and heels.

Here are six knots that, in addition to their practical purpose, can be used in everyday life as decorative knots for various work with cables.

Royal knot(Fig. 134). In principle, this is a reliable stopper knot, like a figure eight, stevedore, deadeye, etc.

A royal knot tied on a thick cord is decorative and can be used to tie the ends of cords for curtains, curtains, curtains, etc.

Three-loop knot(Fig. 135). This is also a working stopper unit, which can be successfully used in maritime affairs. Its extremely symmetrical design has long attracted the attention of artists and graphic artists of applied arts. This is a good ornament for various kinds of decorative artistic works.

Four-loop knot(Fig. 136). The symmetry and certain ornateness of this knot allow it to be classified as a purely decorative knot. It serves artists in choosing patterns for decorative decoration.

Cord knot(Fig. 137). A correctly tied and evenly tightened cord knot looks very impressive on the cords of curtains, curtains and drapes. It can be used at the end of an electrical switch cord.

Turkish knot(Fig. 138). To tie this knot correctly, you need to have some patience. The knot is quite complicated, but it looks beautiful on a thick cable, especially if it is tied twice. Can be used for the already mentioned cords.

Triple braided knot(Fig. 139). In terms of knitting, it is one of the simplest knots, but requires a lot of attention. It looks better if tied on a thick, dense cord. Can be used to shorten cords of curtains, curtains and drapes.

Carbine units Rastorguev Mikhail

BAYONET KNOT

BAYONET KNOT

The working end of the rope is wrapped around a tree or relief ledge. Bring it over the root end, go around the root end and thread it into the resulting loop (Fig. 8). The working end is again carried over the main one, goes around the main one and is threaded into the second formed loop (Fig. 9), etc. Usually 2-3 hoses are made. (“The Queen of England’s yacht is moored on two hoists…”) Then it is advisable to secure the working end to the main end. When the root end is loaded, the knot will not tighten, and it will remain possible to untie it without removing the load from the root end.

From the book Carabiner Knots author Rastorguev Mikhail

BACHMAN KNOT Although the Bachmann knot was described earlier, it belongs to carabiner knots and it was decided to repeat its description in this book. The long side of the carabiner is applied to the main rope. The cord is fastened into a carabiner, folded in half and wrapped 2-3 times

From the book Sea knots in everyday use by Jarman Colin

Anchor knot, or Fisherman's bayonet The structure of the Fisherman's bayonet is very similar to the Enveloping Turn, but is more reliable. As you can see, the working end of the rope passes inside the enveloping turn and thus, when loaded, blocks the knot, preventing it from coming undone.

From the author's book

Spinning knot This knot is often used incorrectly. There must always be equal (or at least almost equal) loads on both sides in weight, otherwise the ends will begin to unwind and the knot will eventually come undone. For this reason, a tapping unit is not needed

From the author's book

Towing knot This knot, also called the Nameless knot, is extremely useful when towing, since it can be undone even under great pressure from the load. To tie this knot, make a Double Wrap around the load half mast (1), then

From the author's book

Clew Knot and Sling Knot Clew KnotThe clew knot is used to connect two ropes together. It is also similar to the Sling Knot: in both cases, one rope has a small connecting loop at the end. Then, when there is no permanent loop,

From the author's book

Double Clew and Double Sling Knot Double Clew Knot For added safety, the Clew and Sling Knots (see previous page) can be quickly converted into double clew knots. This is done like this: you wrap the working end of the rope around

From the author's book

Rope Bayonet Knot Used to attach one rope to another, such as a rope that is used to relieve pressure on another rope. This knot is safer if the load is attached so that the attaching rope

From the author's book

Sliding Bayonet Knot on a Rigid Crossbar This form of this knot is slightly different from the basic one already described above, and is used for a more secure attachment to the crossbar, but not to another rope. In this case, the first turns do not intersect themselves:

From the author's book

Surgeon's Knot This knot can be described as a Reef Knot for slipping, elastic synthetic ropes because they serve the same purpose, but the Surgeon's Knot is safer when using modern materials. There are two of it

From the author's book

Flat Knot, or Flat Bayonet Great for tying two ropes together, regardless of the type of material they are made of or their diameter. Often used in marine applications to add additional rope to a stop anchor. At the end of one of the ropes

From the author's book

Fisherman's Knot-2 This modification of a simple Fisherman's Knot is especially suitable when using sliding synthetics. The first double turn is made in the same way as in a simple Fisherman's Knot: the working end passes under it. Next, the working end is wrapped several times around

From the author's book

Crossbar Knot This is something of a hybrid between the Punch Knot and the Constrictor Knot. It holds better than the Punch Knot in cases where there is a larger load on one side than the other, and it unties more easily than the Shrink Knot. To

From the author's book

Stopper knot This knot can only be called a knot with a stretch, and in this case we can rather talk about a coupling than a binding. The locking knot is used for the most part when it is necessary to reduce the load on one cable by adding a second one. The turn is made

From the author's book

Top knot The top knot can be used to attach shrouds to masts or to erect a temporary flagpole, as well as for many other simple operations. Three loops are made and placed next to each other so that the bottom left part of the outermost loop

From the author's book

Hunter's Knot Typically used to tie two ropes together, the Hunter's Knot is great for both tight, non-elastic ropes and softer, slippery synthetic ropes. This is a rectangular knot, which is made as follows: two ropes

From the author's book

Knot “Bull-gorden” More reliable than the Half-Knot, the Bull-gorden allows you not to be afraid that the cable may unwind. Wind the cable as usual, but leave the end long. Wrap this end around the top of the skein, going from bottom to top. Then insert the end into

A fishing bayonet knot, or, in other words, an anchor knot - the name speaks for itself, is used to attach a rope to the eye or to the anchor bracket.

During the entire existence of the shipping business, and this is more than one thousand years, a more suitable method for attaching an anchor has not been invented. This version of the knot is somewhat similar to a simple bayonet or a simple bayonet with a hose.

Its difference is that the first of the half-bayonets passes inside the hose, which clasps the object.

Any fisherman cannot do his favorite job without knots. An experienced fisherman will always be able to reliably combine several types of fishing line in a fishing rod, tightly tie a hook, spoon or other tackle, and fix everything necessary on the fishing line.

250 kg of fish for 1 fishing trip

The detained poachers told the secret of their success for a good bite. The fishery inspectors were so surprised by the lack of poaching equipment...

It is wise to tie the fish tank under the catch so that it does not come loose. Knowledge of knots is especially useful for those who go fishing in the sea. It is always necessary to have information on how to tie a knot correctly so that it does not come undone at the wrong time.

The article is devoted to the types of knots that will find their application not only in these situations. Each of the nodes can be considered unique, as it can be used anywhere.

We will tell you what a knot is, what type of knot is more appropriate to use in a given situation, as well as how to knit them correctly.

A knot is an old way of joining one or more ropes. It occurs by tying and intertwining the “running” and “root” ends of a rope, cord, or fishing line.

The running end is the loose part of the cable with which we form a knot. The root end is the second part of the cable, fixed in a stationary state.

All existing nodes are divided into groups according to their purpose. In our story we will talk about non-tightening knots, widely used in maritime and even fishing.

A bayonet with a piercing is a unit that is several times stronger than a conventional bayonet with two hoses. Its difference is that the cable does not slide over the object to which the knot is attached, and therefore fastening the ends to this knot is not necessary.

The absence of slipping gives advantages when suddenly changing the direction of traction.

It’s a good idea for securely tying a fish tank to a stationary object, and even if there is a current in the water, the fish tank won’t come undone and the water won’t take your catch.

How to properly tie a bayonet knot with a carryover

• Turn the running end around the object, direction: back to front;
• Pull the running end behind the main one and turn the object now from front to back;
• Next, bring the running end over the root end, then take it behind the root end and pull it into the resulting loop - you will have one half-bayonet;
• Repeat to make another half bayonet;
• Secure the ends together with twine and tighten the knot.

This knot is obtained by combining two half-bayonets. In this option, the number of half-bayonets should not exceed 3 - this will be enough, and moreover, the strength of the knot will not increase with more of them.

In this case, the use of a safety knot is mandatory. Bayonet knots are considered very reliable. They are used when the rope needs to be secured to a support for strong traction (towing a car or guiding a suspended crossing).

Performance

The running end of the cable, wound by a pole, biteng or eye (Figure a), is wrapped around the root part of the cable and passed into the loop formed (Figure b).

In this form, the knot is called a half-bayonet. Next, the running end is once again tied around the cable with a half-bayonet (Figure c) and firmly secured with a thin line or skimushgar.

The tied knot is shown in Figure d.

From the above figures it can be seen that when the knot is correctly tied, the closely spaced half-bayonets form a bleached knot.

The main difference between this unit and the previous one is the presence of a second hose around the support. The presence of a second hose will make the knot more reliable. This option also requires the use of a safety knot.

How to knit correctly

• Wrap the running end around the object from back to front;
• Make two more turns in the same direction;
• Form a half-bayonet around the main end with the running end;
• Make another half-bayonet at the root end;
• Tie both ends tightly with thin twine;
• Tighten the knot.
• Congratulations, the bayonet and hose assembly is ready!

It is this knot that sailors call the most reliable when attaching an anchor to a rope. This option is similar to the bayonet and hose knot, but there is one significant difference. The rope in the fishing bayonet is also pulled through the second additional hose, which wraps around the support. Even with strong traction, the fisherman's bayonet knot does not tighten and holds very tightly.

How to knit a fishing bayonet correctly

• Thread the running end into the anchor ring from behind;
• Pass through the ring in the same direction one more time;
• Pass the end behind the molar and pull through the resulting loops;
• Pass the running end first “behind” and then “in front” of the main one, then direct it into the loop - a half-bayonet is formed;
• Tighten the knot.
• Pull the two ends of the rope together and secure them with twine.

A simple half-bayonet is the most common and oldest type of knot. It has a wide range of applications, since it is one of the elementary non-tightening knots.

By itself, this unit does not represent any reliability, however, with a fixed running end, it effectively copes with any thrust.

It doesn’t matter what tension force is applied to the knot, it will never tighten; at most it will tighten the loop and thereby move towards the object.

Its main task is to secure other types of knots.

However, it can also be useful for fishermen: for example, to quickly tie your vessel to the pier if the stop is short, or, if necessary, temporarily connect parts of the fishing line.

How to knit a simple half bayonet correctly

1. You should wrap the running end around the object, bringing it from behind;
2. Next, stretch it, wrap it around the root end and thread the running end into the resulting loop;
3. Secure both ends with thin twine;
4. Tighten the knot.
5. After these movements, a simple half-bayonet is ready!

Simple half bayonet(Fig. 9). A simple half-bayonet, being the simplest of non-tightening knots, is widely used in maritime affairs. It serves as the final element of many nodes. Wrap the running end of the cable around the object to which you want to tie the cable, then around the root end of the cable and pass it into the resulting loop.

After this, attach the running end of the cable with a grip to the root end. A knot tied in this way reliably withstands strong traction. He may move towards the object, but he will never be drawn in.

A simple half-bayonet is used to connect two cables with “foreign” and “own” ends.

Rice. 9. Simple half bayonet

Simple bayonet(Fig. 10). Two identical half-bayonets make up a knot, which sailors call a simple bayonet. The expression “throw half a bayonet” means adding to the knot already made one more carry and crossing the running end around the root end of the cable. The diagram shows a non-tightening knot widely used in maritime affairs - one of the simplest and most reliable knots for attaching moorings to mooring bollards, bits, guns and bollards. To distinguish a correctly tied bayonet from an incorrect bayonet, the two loops of the knot must be brought closer together. If this results in a bleached knot (see Fig. 48), then it means that the simple bayonet was tied correctly. For such a bayonet, its running end, both after the first and after the second pegs, should extend equally above or below its end. An inverted, i.e. incorrectly tied, simple bayonet (Fig. 10, b), the running end after the second pebble goes in the opposite direction, not the same as after the first. When two loops of an inverted knotted bayonet are brought together, instead of bleached it turns out bovine knot (see Fig. 46). If the half bayonets of a simple bayonet are made in different directions, then when the cable is tensioned they will come together and the knot will be tightened. The main use of a simple bayonet in the fleet is to secure mooring ends to mooring fixtures, to secure the guys of cargo booms to the butts and eyes, and to secure the cargo pendant to the load being lifted.

The maximum number of half-bayonets in such a knot under any circumstances should not exceed three, since this is quite sufficient and the strength of the knot as a whole will not increase with a larger number of half-bayonets. The reliability of this mooring unit is eloquently demonstrated by the old English nautical proverbs: “Two half-bayonets saved the queen’s ship” and “Three half-bayonets are more than enough for the royal yacht.”

Sailors often use two simple bayonets to temporarily connect two mooring lines, cable and pearl lines.

On shore, this simple but reliable unit can be used in all cases when the cable needs to be temporarily attached to some object for strong traction, for example, to a hook when towing a car.

Rice. 10. Simple bayonet: A– properly tied; 6 – inverted (wrong)

Bed bayonet(Fig. 11). For many centuries, the bed for sailors on ships was a canvas hanging bunk in the form of a hammock with a thin mattress made of crushed cork. In plan, it has the shape of a rectangle, the small sides of which have eight eyelets for the so-called pendant ropes. These pendants are connected in rings, which in turn are suspended by the berth pins to special eyelets in beams or to rods made in the ship's cockpit for hanging berths at night. During the day, rolled-up bunks along with a pillow, blanket and sheet were stored in so-called bunk nets along the side on the deck and served as a reliable parapet from cannonballs and shrapnel during the battle. In the evening, before lights out, at the command “Bunks down!” they were carried below deck and suspended. Tying a knot to hang a bunk is serious business. Here you need to use a knot that does not tighten, is easy to untie and holds securely. The most important thing is that it does not come undone on its own under the influence of the continuous rocking of the ship. Sailors used various knots to hang their bunks, but the bunk bayonet was considered the most reliable.

rice. 11. Bed bayonet

Simple bayonet withslag(Fig. 12). This knot differs from a simple bayonet by one additional hose around the object to which the cable is attached. It also serves mainly for fastening cables and ropes when mooring using bollards, bits and poles, but is used, unlike a simple bayonet, in cases where there is no need to quickly release the mooring lines. This knot is also convenient for attaching a cable to a hook, fire, eye, etc. Two hoses around the object make this knot more reliable during long stays; in any case, due to the additional hose, it will not fray as quickly as a simple bayonet.

Rice. 12. Simple bayonet with hose

Simple bayonet with two slags(Fig. 13). In fact, this is also a type of simple bayonet. The difference from the previous node is an additional, third hose. It increases the strength of the knot if the cable experiences constant friction against the bollard or biting. Attaching the cable to the hook using this unit is a very reliable method.

Rice. 13. Simple bayonet with two hooks

Bayonet with drift(Fig. 14). If for a simple bayonet with two hoses the latter pass on the side of the attachment point of the root end, then with this unit they are placed one on each side. This gives the knot greater symmetry; when the direction of pull changes, the knot moves less along the object to which it is tied.

To tie a bayonet with a bow, you first need to make one hose around the object with the running end, encircle it behind the root end and make a hose again, but in the other direction. This is followed by one or two half-bayonets.

Rice. 14. Bayonet with drift

Fisherman's bayonet(anchor knot)(Fig. 15). One of the most important cases of using a knot in maritime affairs is tying an anchor rope to an anchor. Over the five thousand years of shipping, people could not come up with a more reliable knot for this purpose than a fishing bayonet. Tested by centuries of experience in maritime practice, this knot is recognized by sailors of all countries as the most reliable for attaching a rope to the eye or to the anchor shackle.

A fishing bayonet (or anchor knot) is to some extent similar to a simple bayonet with a hose (see Fig. 12). It differs from it in that the first of the two half-bayonets additionally passes inside the hose that clasps the object. When using this knot for an anchor, it is always necessary to grab the running end with a grip to the main one. In this case, even with very strong traction, the fishing bayonet does not tighten and holds securely. It can be safely used in all cases when working with cables when they are subject to strong traction.

Rice. 15. Fishing bayonet (anchor knot)

Backbayonet(Fig. 16). When mooring ships to piers and moorings, a situation often arises when it is very difficult to enclose the running end of the cable around a pole or log. Sometimes you have to literally crawl under the pier in order to thread the end through a log or eye from the bow of a boat or boat. By using a reverse bayonet, you can wrap the rope around the desired object once and at the same time tie a knot with two hoes around the object to which you are attaching the mooring line. To do this, the running end of the cable needs to be folded in half over a length of 2-3 meters and, looping it forward around the object, pull the loop towards you. Now the running end of the cable needs to be threaded into this loop, and the slack should be taken out at the root end and the knot should be finished with two half-bayonets. The reverse bayonet is convenient for use in cases where access to the object to which you want to attach the cable is difficult or inconvenient for tying a knot, for example, to a tow hook for some brands of cars.

Rice. 16. Reverse bayonet

Mast bayonet(Fig. 17). Here the original combination of two good knots produces a reliable and simple knot. First, a bleached knot is tied around the object to which the cable is attached (see Fig. 48) and an ordinary bayonet is made at the root end of the cable, which, as is known, is also a modified bleached knot. To prevent the mast bayonet from becoming too tight, the first knot is not fully tightened.

Rice. 17. Mast bayonet

Towing unit(Fig. 18). This unit is used to secure the cable to the towing hook or biting. They can delay or release the towing end. Thanks to the sequential application of several cable hoses on the bit, the towing end can be pulled from the bit, and when the tension of the tow is weakened, it can be pulled out again in the form of loops thrown over the top of the bit.

Rice. 18. Towing unit

Port hub(Fig. 19). Holding the synthetic mooring line on a pair of bollards is a simple matter. But what if, instead of a double bollard, you have a single bollard (or biting) at your disposal, and there is no light at the end of the mooring line? For this purpose, there are several original units in maritime practice. Let us explain the principle of one of them, which can be classified as non-tightening knots.

First, you need to make several hoses around the single bollard with the running end of the mooring cable. After this, fold the running end in half and in this form, in a loop, pass it under the tensioned root part of the cable, turn the loop 360 degrees and throw it on top of the bollard. This knot does not slip and holds securely. The cable can be released at any moment, even if the mooring line is under strong tension. To do this, you need to slightly select the running end passing under the root end and enlarge the loop, after which it will not be difficult to throw it off the bollard.

Rice. 19. Port hub A simple half-bayonet, being the simplest of non-tightening knots, is widely used in maritime affairs. It serves as the final element of many nodes. Wrap the running end of the cable around the object to which you want to tie the cable, then around the root end of the cable and pass it into the resulting loop. After this, attach the running end of the cable with a grip to the root end. A knot tied in this way reliably withstands strong traction. He may move towards the object, but he will never be drawn in. A simple half-bayonet is used to connect two cables with “other people’s” and “our” ends.

Two identical half-bayonets make up a knot, which sailors call a simple bayonet. To distinguish a correctly tied bayonet (a.) from an incorrectly tied (b.) bayonet, two loops need to be brought closer together. If this results in a bleached knot, then it means that the simple bayonet was tied correctly. For such a bayonet, its running end, both after the first and after the second pegs, should extend equally above or below its end. Inverted, i.e. an incorrectly tied simple bayonet, the running end after the second bayonet goes in the opposite direction, not the same as after the first. When two loops of an inverted knotted bayonet are brought together, a cow knot is obtained instead of a bleached one. The main use of a simple bayonet in the navy is to secure mooring ends to mooring fixtures, to secure the guys of cargo booms to the butts and eyes, and to secure the cargo pendant to the load being lifted. The maximum number of half-bayonets in such a knot should not exceed three, since this is quite enough and the strength of the knot as a whole will not increase with a larger number of half-bayonets. Old English proverbs eloquently speak about the reliability of this mooring unit: “two half-bayonets saved the queen’s ship” and “three half-bayonets are more than enough for the royal yacht.”

For many centuries, the bed for sailors on ships was a canvas hanging bunk in the form of a hammock with a thin mattress made of crushed cork. In plan, it has the shape of a rectangle, the small sides of which have eight by eight eyelets for the so-called pendant ropes. These pendants are connected in rings, which in turn are suspended by the berth pins to special eyes in the beams or by the berth pins to special eyes in the beams or to rods made in the ship's cockpit for hanging the berths at night. During the day, rolled-up bunks along with a pillow, blanket and sheet were stored in so-called bunk nets along the side on the deck and served as a reliable parapet from cannonballs and shrapnel during the battle. In the evening, before lights out, at the command “beds down,” they were carried below deck and hung up. Tying a knot to hang a bunk is serious business. Here you need to use a knot that does not tighten, is easy to untie and holds securely. The most important thing is that it does not come undone on its own under the influence of the continuous rocking of the ship. Sailors used various knots to hang their bunks, but the bunk bayonet was considered the most reliable.

This knot differs from a simple bayonet by one additional hose around the object to which the cable is attached. It also serves mainly for fastening cables and railings when mooring using bollards, bits and bollards, but is used, unlike a simple bayonet, in cases where there is no need to quickly release the mooring lines. This knot is also convenient for attaching a cable to a hook, fire, eye, etc. Two hoses around the object make this knot more reliable during long stays; in any case, due to the additional hose, it will not fray as quickly as a simple bayonet.

In fact, this is also a type of simple bayonet. The difference from a simple bayonet with a hose is the additional third hose. It increases the strength of the knot if the cable experiences constant friction against the bollard or biting. Using this unit to attach the cable to the hook is a very reliable method.

If for a simple bayonet with two hoses the latter pass on the side of the attachment point of the root end, then with this unit they are placed one on each side. This gives the knot greater symmetry; when the direction of pull changes, the knot moves less along the object to which it is tied. To tie a bayonet with a bow, you first need to make one hose around the object with the running end, encircle it behind the root end and make a hose again, but in the other direction. This is followed by one or two half-bayonets.

One of the most important cases of using a knot in maritime affairs is tying an anchor rope to an anchor. Over the five thousand years of shipping, people could not have come up with a more reliable knot for this purpose than this one. Tested by centuries of experience in maritime practice, this knot is recognized by sailors of all countries as the most reliable for attaching a rope to the eye or to the anchor shackle. A fishing bayonet (or anchor knot) is to some extent similar to a simple bayonet with a hook. It differs from it in that the first of the two half-bayonets additionally passes inside the hose that clasps the object. When using this knot for an anchor, it is always necessary to grab the running end with a grip to the main one. In this case, even with very strong traction, the fishing bayonet does not tighten and holds securely. It can be safely used in all cases when working with cables when they are subject to strong traction.

Here the original combination of two good knots produces a reliable and simple knot. First, a bleached knot is tied around the object to which the cable is attached, and an ordinary bayonet is made at the root end of the cable, which, as is known, is also a modified bleached knot. To prevent the mast bayonet from becoming too tight, the first knot is not fully tightened.

When mooring ships to piers and moorings, a situation often arises when it is very difficult to enclose the running end of the cable around a pole or log. Sometimes you have to literally crawl under the pier in order to thread the end through a log or eye from the bow of a boat or boat. By using a reverse bayonet, you can wrap the rope around the desired object once and at the same time tie a knot with two hoes around the object to which you are attaching the mooring line. To do this, the running end of the cable needs to be folded in half over a length of 2-3 meters and, looping it forward around the object, pull the loop towards you. Now the running end of the cable needs to be threaded into this loop, and the slack should be taken out at the root end and the knot should be finished with two half-bayonets. The reverse bayonet is convenient for use in cases where access to the object to which you want to attach the cable is difficult or inconvenient for tying a knot, for example, to a tow hook and some brands of cars.

Holding the synthetic mooring line on a pair of bollards is a simple matter. But what if, instead of a double bollard, you have a single bollard (or biting) at your disposal, and there is no light at the end of the mooring line? For this purpose, in maritime practice there are several original nodes in the network. Let us explain the principle of one of them, which can be classified as non-tightening knots. First, you need to make several hoses around the single bollard with the running end of the mooring cable. After this, fold the running end in half and in this form, in a loop, pass it under the tensioned root part of the cable, turn the loop 360 degrees and throw it on top of the bollard. This knot does not slip and holds securely. The cable can be released at any moment, even if the mooring line is under strong tension. To do this, you need to slightly select the running end passing under the root end and enlarge the loop, after which it will not be difficult to throw it off the bollard.

This unit is used to secure the cable to the towing hook or biting. They can delay or release the towing end. Thanks to the sequential application of several cable hoses on the bit, the towing end can be pulled from the bit, and when the tension of the tow is weakened, it can be pulled out again in the form of loops thrown over the top of the bit.