DIY boat: best projects and tips on how to make a wooden or plywood boat. How to make a boat from boards with your own hands How to make a submarine from pike wood

Our ancestors have always been highly dependent on water.

There was a time when roads had not yet been built through dense forests and wetlands. The only way along which goods could be transported or troops could be deployed to meet the adversary was rivers.

Remember the battles of antiquity: “Battle of the Kalka River”, “Battle of the Neva”, “Battle of the Ice”, “Standing on the Ugra River”... The list can be continued independently. And the word “Rus” comes from the word “channel”, which again and again reminds us of the close connection of the inhabitants of our lands with the waterways of our lands - rivers. Yes, many cities grew up along the banks of rivers and not only in Rus'. Naturally, it would be strange if residents of cities and villages located along the banks of rivers did not eat fish.

Archaeologists, in any case, claim that fish was one of the main products in those distant years. However, it is difficult for us to imagine how people lived in those distant years. It is difficult to understand how merchants transported goods along rivers from distant Scandinavia to the no less distant and mysterious Tsar Grad. It is difficult to imagine how the squads of various princes came together in a boarding battle. But without swimming facilities it is impossible to imagine life in Rus'.

It is even more difficult to imagine how ancient fishermen managed without boats. And there is no need to imagine this, because fishing without fishing in those days was a dangerous and quite difficult activity.

And in our times, all this is quite relevant. There are many bodies of water where fishing from the shore is very difficult or even impossible. For example, lakes overgrown with reeds, where normal casting and landing of fish is impossible. In many places, the fish stay away from the shoreline, which prevents normal, accurate casting even with match gear.

There are reservoirs where a thick layer of silt at the bottom makes it impossible to use donkey for fishing.

There is only one way out - to go to the outer border of aquatic vegetation on some kind of floating device. It was considered the best at all times.

Since ancient times, boats have been made from a variety of materials. The very first material from which boats were made was reed, then the boats were hollowed out of wood and made from the skins of various animals.

Some time passed and wooden planks became the main material for making boats.

As time passed, the design of some boats began to use cylinders into which air was pumped under pressure. Appeared inflatable boat, which revolutionized the creation of compact fishing boats.

However, progress came in different ways. The time has come, and the industry has mastered the production of light metal boats, such as the Kazanka, which were quite difficult to transport, but they were durable and reliable on the water.

Further development of technology led to the creation of boats made of polymer materials. The first to appear, of course, were plastic boats, then - boats from composite materials.

Gradually such boats became more convenient for anglers, taking into account specific fishing conditions.

That's all today boats, which can be used for fishing can be classified according to several criteria. The main one is the material from which the boat is made.

Wooden boats

These are the traditional means of moving a fisherman around a body of water. The technologies for producing these products have not changed for centuries.

It is unlikely that an enterprise has survived in nature that
produces such boats industrially.

They are built by local craftsmen. They are built for fishing in a specific body of water. Each body of water has its own traditions of such construction. Wooden boat It is launched into the water in a certain place and removed from the water only in the fall or, as a last resort, in case of damage to the watercraft.

City fishermen, if they do not live on the banks of a river or lake, are little familiar with the features of these predominantly rowing vessels. And in rural areas this is still a completely common attribute of an avid fisherman.

Inflatable boat

For quite a long time, ordinary rubberized fabric was used to make fishing boats.
Everything has changed since fabrics from PVC. Boat made from this material has become much stronger and lighter. From a purely rowing small vessel, it began to turn into one quite suitable for installing a motor flotation device.

PVC inflatable boat

Gradually such boats appreciated not only by fishermen, but also by hunters, therefore today an inflatable boat cannot be considered an invention designed for use exclusively by fishermen. Such boats are also widely used by the military and rescuers.

PVC inflatable boats have many advantages over other small fishing vessels:

1. So compact. Some single-seat models can fit into a medium-sized backpack.
2. Boat weighs quite little. when folded and equipped, it can be moved along the shore and in the water by one person.
3. Inflatable boat Can be used in shallow water conditions.
4. It is extremely stable. You can turn such a boat over on the water only by applying maximum effort. Even on the rapids she feels quite comfortable.

This boat also has disadvantages:

1. Level of comfort. Still, it is quite difficult to sit comfortably in an inflatable boat;
2. Boat It handles quite poorly, especially compared to its metal sisters;
3. To propel such a boat, a more powerful engine will be required compared to a metal boat.

Inflatable boats can be:

1. Rowing. The boats have a very simple and reliable design. The inflatable boards are divided into several separate sectors. This design, even if one of them is damaged, allows the boat to remain afloat. The bottom of such a boat can be made of ordinary rubber, or it can be reinforced with inserts made of plywood or plastic.
2. Motor. These boats feature a durable transom on which the engine is mounted. The sides of such a boat are more rigid. The bottom (payol) is usually either inflatable or reinforced with additional transverse “bars”. The more powerful the outboard engine will be used, the stronger the structure should be. boats.
3. A separate subcategory of inflatable boats Rigid Inflatable Boats (RIBs). These are outboard-powered boats that are designed to move very quickly through the water. The design feature is boats– v-shaped floor.
This design allows the boat to reach speeds on the water of up to 100 km/h.

Getting ready for yourself buy an inflatable boat, you need to remember that if you plan to use it exclusively for fishing, you do not need to opt for a large model. If you prefer to fish alone, then a boat up to 2.5 meters long will suit you.

If you like to fish in company, then it is better to choose a model with a length of at least 3.5 meters. A boat of this length is considered the most stable on the water. Yes, and there is more comfort in it.

Manufacture inflatable boat most often made of durable fabric covered with rubber, PVC with various additives.

PVC It is considered a more durable material that perfectly resists the effects of solar ultraviolet radiation, does not rot or rot, and can withstand both low and high temperatures. Besides everything else, PVC resistant to petroleum products.

The only problem PVC boats– for some reason this material attracts the attention of rodents, which often damage the coating of the boat.

PVC inflatable boats, of course, lighter than rubber ones, but more expensive. Therefore, if you are not going to fish in large bodies of water, then you can buy a boat made from rubber.

Metal boats

Such boats have been produced and are currently being produced. Aluminum, duralumin and even steel were used as the main material at different times.

Metal boats durable, stable, repairable. Most often, they normally transfer transportation to another body of water. But such boats also have disadvantages. The main thing that fishermen usually pay attention to is that they are quite noisy.

It is very difficult for an angler to navigate such a craft without creating excessive noise. And it’s quite difficult to fish on a wave from such a boat, because any impact of a wave on the side of the vessel causes a long-drawn roar, similar to the striking of a bell.

Gradually, changes are being made to the design of such boats, and the noise is gradually decreasing, but still...

Aluminum fishing boats belong to the class of small vessels. Initially, these boats were designed for travel (walking) along rivers, lakes and reservoirs in conditions where the wave height does not exceed 0.5 m, as well as with a wind force that does not exceed force 4.

Currently, boats of this type are already adapted for fishing. The design allows free movement from the control room to the engine along the side.

The advantages of boats made of this material include:
1. Increased compared to other boats
structural strength.
2. Level of comfort. Modern metal boats are quite comfortable.
3. Durability. Such boats do not need to be painted frequently to protect them from corrosion.
4. Weight. Boats made of this material can be pulled ashore quite easily.
5. High degree of buoyancy. This applies, first of all, to boats made of duralumin, the design of which uses hollow, air-filled tanks.
6. Volume. After all, such boats were originally designed to be used by 3-4 people. The space completely allows this to be done.

The disadvantages include the too high cost of repairs. Especially if you have to use argon welding, and another type of welding cannot be used in the repair of products made of aluminum or duralumin.

And such a boat is quite expensive, like any product made of metal compared to the same product made of plastic.

Plastic boats

The main material used for the production of plastic boats is polyester resin, which is impregnated and coated with a pre-prepared mold made from reinforcing threads.

Experts distinguish the following types of plastic boats:

• Open boats;
• Boats with a closed bow;
• Boats with cabins.

1. Open ones can be used as rowing or motor boats. The maximum length of such boats is 8 meters, the minimum is 3 meters. Such boats are designed for fresh water fishing in reservoirs with weak currents and no currents at all.

2. Boats with a decked bow are more comfortable and are in great demand among anglers who practice fishing in large bodies of water. Most often, this type of boat is used as a motor vessel for fishing in large bodies of water and in sea fishing. A special feature of this type of boat is the ability to install two engines.

3. Boats with cabins are used exclusively for sea fishing.

The use of plastic in the manufacture of boats made it possible to immediately solve several problems faced by designers.

1.Plastic boats have become more durable compared to products made from other materials. Plastic is absolutely not subject to corrosion and rotting.
2. The hull of a plastic boat can be given almost any shape, and, therefore, given certain qualities.
3. Plastic boats much cheaper than metal boats.

Disadvantages of this type of boat:

1. Relative fragility;
2. Short service life;
3. Difficulty of repair.

Separately, I would like to mention the existence of homemade and industrial hybrid boats, one of the types of which we have already mentioned in the story about inflatable boats.

Which boat to choose

What criteria exist for choosing a boat? What to look for when choosing a boat? What questions should an angler who is planning to purchase flotation device?
1. How far does the fisherman live from the pond?
2. How often does the fisherman go fishing?
3. How are you going to transport the boat?
4. Where and under what conditions will the vessel be stored?

If the angler lives on the shore of a relatively small body of water, then it makes sense to purchase a “short-range” boat made of wood or modified plywood.

It makes sense for those living near a large lake or reservoir buy a boat more durable: made of metal or plastic, which can be equipped with an outboard engine.
If a person lives far enough from a body of water, but constantly comes to the same body of water, the fisherman can also purchase a stationary boat.

If a fisherman lives in the city, but prefers to travel to distant (and at the same time different) bodies of water, then the option of purchasing a metal or plastic boat. Yes, you will have to purchase either special mounts or a special car trailer, but this purchase will be completely worth it. In addition, it is necessary to provide space for storing the boat. In urban conditions this is a rather difficult issue. More pragmatic: they are better suited for these purposes inflatable boat PVC

But, to be honest, there are no generally accepted criteria for such a choice. Boat selection– a purely individual choice. Having chosen the type of boat, you can and should collect information about the models existing on the market. And, having chosen a specific model, collect reviews about it, go to the seller to see the boat “live”.

There is little hope for sales consultants in choosing. People are interested in selling “durable goods”. After all, many fishermen buy a boat once and for life.

Yes, sometimes any flotation device can help with fishing. I personally knew a man who made a boat from a tractor tire. It was a strange, poorly controlled vessel, round in shape, which he pumped with a hand pump for at least half an hour.

People smiled as they watched him transport it on the trunk of an old bicycle. The whistling and grinding sound of the inflated balloon was heard by everyone within fifty meters. But when he went “out on the water” and returned an hour later with a full cage of fish, the coastal fishermen openly envied him. Because even this is imperfect flotation device allowed him to cast bait into numerous windows among aquatic vegetation, and could fish the border of reeds and clear water.

There was, and probably still is, another acquaintance of mine who fished for grayling, organizing week-long expeditions on a metal boat along a large river.

A boat plays a huge role in a fisherman’s life. Some types of fishing, such as trolling, are simply impossible without a boat.

Therefore, it is worth thinking about purchasing such a simple and extremely necessary tool for high-quality fishing like a boat.

A wooden boat is not a cheap pleasure. But if you are willing to work hard, you can create your own river transport with your own hands, saving a decent amount.

Prepare a diagram or drawing indicating dimensions. Perhaps, in your browser’s search engine for the request “wooden boat diagram”, among the proposed options you will find a suitable one, otherwise you will have to either combine the found options, or calculate it yourself, or seek help from a specialist. Based on the drawing, clearly determine the amount of materials needed. For the sides, choose high-quality pine or spruce boards - wide and long, without knots or cracks. Before building a boat, these boards must lie for a year on a flat, dry surface under pressure. Immediately before work, carefully inspect each board for defects. Start creating the bow of the boat:

1. Measure the required length of the board, saw off the edge on the nose side at an angle of 45°, and plan it. Bevel the sawn edges so that when you press, there is no gap between these boards. Coat these ends with a protective antiseptic.
2. Make the base of the “nose” of the boat - a triangular block (its length is one and a half times the height of the boat). The block must be planed and treated with an antiseptic.
3. Assemble the “bow” of the boat: lubricate the two sides and the base block with wood glue, firmly fasten them with nails or self-tapping screws.
4. File off any excess excess at the top and bottom.

For the backboard, select a board 5 cm thick. Cut out the sides of the side, and leave a margin at the top and bottom; you will process these edges after assembly. Prepare a spacer - a strong board, the length of which should be equal to the maximum width of the boat, and the height should almost coincide with the height of the sides, otherwise the sides may burst when you bend them. To perform bending you will need a rope and two assistants:

1. Install the spacer in the right place, helpers slowly bend the side boards using a rope, and you apply the edges of the boards to the back board blank and make marks on them where and how long to chamfer so that all parts are connected without gaps, then remove the chamfer and try it on again. Adjust it several times to eliminate any gaps.
2. Treat the joints with an antiseptic, fasten the sides with wood glue, as well as nails or screws.
3. Saw off the excess at the bottom of the rear side, shape its top (arc, triangle, trapezoid, straight).
4. Install permanent braces and seats. Before fastening them, you need to make holes in the sides with a small drill, this will prevent cracks from appearing.

Start creating the bottom:

1. For the bottom you will need a galvanized sheet. Place the boat bottom down on it, circle with a marker with a margin of 1.5 cm and cut out with metal scissors.
2. Turn the boat upside down, chamfer the sides and spacers on the side adjacent to the bottom. Treat the edges with an antiseptic. Wait for the impregnation and wood glue to dry.
3. Apply silicone sealant continuously to the underside of the sides, lay special threads or tow on it in two rows, this will protect against leakage.
4. Lay and level the cut metal blank of the bottom and attach it with galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails (1.8x32), moving from the middle of the boat to the edges.
5. In places where the metal protrudes more than 5 mm, trim off the excess. Tap along the entire perimeter with a hammer, bending the sheet onto the side. Also protect the bow of a homemade boat with tin, having previously treated it with sealant and laid the thread.

To prevent the tin from rattling and to make it comfortable to walk on the bottom, make a wooden deck in the form of a pallet according to the size of the boat. To secure the boat to the dock at the top of the bow, install a long bolt or pin through a chain link. Cover the boat with two layers of antiseptic and paint (all of it, including galvanization).

When starting to build a boat or other small vessel, it is important to choose the right hull design and the cross-section of the main connections of its set. The hull must not only be durable, i.e., capable of withstanding the loads that will be encountered during the operation of the vessel, but also light, since the performance of the vessel, its transportability, ease of storage, etc. depend on the weight of the hull.

It is best to evaluate a particular design by comparing it with already built buildings used in the same conditions. Some information on the design of wooden hulls of small vessels of various types can be found in the “Handbook of Small Vessels” by Yu. V. Emelyanov and N. A. Krysov (Sudpromgiz, 1950)

The table shows, as an example, the approximate dimensions of the sections of the main connections of the buildings, and in Fig. Figure 1 shows a typical design drawing of a boat hull. The dimensions are indicated for structures in the manufacture of which gluing was not used, therefore, for glued hulls, the cross-sections of the connections can be slightly reduced.

Let's consider the designs of individual components and parts of the hull of a small ship.

stems

For a small motor boat or kayak, the stem is easiest to make from a separate block (Fig. 2, a and 6), which is cut into the keel and glued to it with a nail press.

Sometimes the stems are made of several layers of waterproof plywood 10-12 mm thick (Fig. 2, c). A stem template is cut out of cardboard, plywood or paper with a width allowance of 4-6 mm. Using this template, the number of pieces required to obtain the specified thickness of the stem is cut out of plywood. After cleaning the edges and preparing the surfaces to be glued, the workpieces are glued into a package that forms a curved beam of the stem. When gluing, pressing with rivets, nails or screws is used; It is most convenient to use rivets made of copper wire with a diameter of 3-5 mm. The fasteners should be placed closer to the inner edge of the stem, since the outer edge will be removed for plating.

It’s even better if you can use a blank made from crooked wood (kokora); in this case (Fig. 2, d) all that remains is to process the stem in accordance with the given dimensions.

In the absence of submissive material, the stem can be cut from a straight block and connected to the keel using a bow pad - a button (Fig. 2, e).

For relatively large boats and boats that are built in series, it is advisable to make bent-glued stems from slats (Fig. 2, f). Due to the fact that the radius of curvature of the stem is usually small, the thickness of the slats can be 4-7 mm; The width of the workpieces should be taken 4-6 mm larger than the width of the stem after its final processing.

When building amateur ships for gluing the stem, it is convenient to use a fairly simple model, or jig (Fig. 3), to which the slats are pressed one by one with clamps or nailed down. To prevent the stem slats from sticking to the model or its base, paper must be placed on these surfaces before gluing. After gluing, the workpiece is cut and processed to size.

The stem is attached to the keel using glue using fasteners - bolts, rivets or screws. To ensure the strength of this important unit, the length of the overlap at the connection of the stem and keel must be at least 5 times the height of the keel; the length of the button along the stem is not less than 0.4 of the length of the stem; the adhesive miter joint should be made with an overlap equal to 4-5; heights of the keel beam.

Akhtershtevni

Most small boats have a transom stern with a flat bottom, so they usually do not have sternposts. The exception is kayaks, rowboats and sailing yachts, i.e. slow-moving vessels whose waterlines are pointed at the stern. On kayaks, the design of the sternposts is usually similar to that of the stems; the difference lies only in a change in the angle of inclination or outline.

In Fig. Figure 4 shows the stern post of a boat with a transom stern. The stem is connected to the keel by a glued insert. The sternposts of larger ships are connected to the keel by means of a sternlink.

Transoms

Transoms usually consist of a frame, i.e. a frame of bars around the perimeter, sheathing and racks that reinforce the latter (especially in the area where the outboard motor is installed). The strapping bars are connected to each other in the corners into a tenon with glue; to attach longitudinal connections, nests are made in the bars (Fig. 5).

On large boats, for the outboard motor (or motors), a fence is made at the transom - a recess, the design of which is shown, for example, in the drawings of the Leningradets boat in the first issue of the collection.

On small boats and kayaks, transoms may not have any trim at all (see Fig. 4) - the hull trim and deck flooring are attached directly to the transom, cut from a thick board.

The transom and keel are connected with a powerful stark (stern knob) or two brackets made of waterproof plywood or metal. It is convenient to glue plywood brackets to the keel and the middle post of the transom along their side edges, and a wooden filler must be placed between the brackets with glue. On metal brackets, flanges are bent along the free edge.

On motor-sailing vessels, very developed deadwoods are often used, assembled from thick beams (Fig. 6) with glue, nails and bolts. On yachts, all the laying elements, including the deadwood, are glued out of boards (Fig. 7).

Longitudinal connections

The longitudinal connections (Fig. 8) include: the keel, false keel, bottom and side stringers, bilge beams (chine stringers), fender beams, gunwale and waterway beam. The cross-sectional shape of each of these connections is determined by its location in the structural nodes.

The outer plating and deck covering play an important role in ensuring the overall longitudinal strength of small ships. On small boats, as a rule, there is no deck flooring in the middle part of the hull; Its absence must be compensated by increasing the cross-sections of the longitudinal connections located in the upper part of the body. From this point of view, it is advisable to make continuous connections along the entire length of the hull such as the waterway beam, gunwale and even collar.

Wood defects - knots, cross grain, etc. greatly reduce the tensile strength of longitudinal bonds. Since it is very difficult to select bars for longitudinal ties for the entire length of the body without knots and cross-layers, these ties should be glued together from a shorter, but high-quality material. The length of the mustache cut should be equal to 12-15 thicknesses of the workpiece.

Longitudinal connections with a large cross-section and significant curvature should be glued in place or in a jig of two slats. In this case, a good section of the other rail is placed against any defect in one rail, compensating for the weakening of the connection. Each of the slats can also be glued together from separate parts, and the length of the mustache overlap can be reduced to 8-10 thicknesses of the slats.

In the case of a complex keel structure, for example, on sailing ships (see Fig. 7), it is advisable to use bolted joints. It is recommended to glue each miter joint separately using press-fitting with clamps. In the case of simultaneous gluing of several joints, each of them is pre-assembled on mounting nails. It is recommended to place spacers under the clamps so that they distribute the pressure evenly along the entire length of the miter joint.

To improve the quality of the joint, it is advisable to plan the bars along the face on a jointing machine. When gluing slats, it is necessary to ensure that the pressure is sufficient and uniform over the entire gluing area. If there are not enough clamps, you can use, for example, wedge devices - tsulags, which are easy to make from scraps of boards. After gluing and curing, the workpieces are stretched, maintaining the specified cross-sectional dimensions of the bonds; It is better to remove the fry after putting the longitudinal links in place, i.e. after assembling the set.

The connection of stringers and fenders with the stem is carried out using a tie-in, using glue and fasteners; Breshtuks are often used - horizontal brackets on fasteners.

Frames and beams

The design of the frames depends primarily on the contours of the hull.

When building small ships, it is advisable to pre-fabricate frame frames, which then serve as templates for assembling the entire hull.

Rack frames are most often used on ships with sharp chines. In most cases, the bottom and side branches of frames and beams are cut out from boards of the required thickness and in the corners they are connected with brackets made of waterproof plywood 4-6 mm thick; installed with glue or rivets. If you have to use non-waterproof plywood, after gluing the brackets to the joints being connected, it is necessary to carefully dry them and coat them with waterproof varnish. In Fig. Figure 9 shows the connections of parts of the frame frame on the bilge and in the DP on the keel. The connection of the side branch of the frame (toptimber) with the beam, if the fender passes in the cut off upper corner of the frame frame, is performed in exactly the same way as on the cheekbone.

To simplify the design, the connection of the side branch of the frame with the beam and the bottom branch can be carried out not by inserting, but at the end. In order to increase the useful volume of the body, the protruding edge of the brackets can be cut along a smooth curve. The thickness of all parts of the frame frame must be strictly the same, since otherwise it will be difficult to achieve high quality gluing when assembling it.

On small boats, frames and beams are sometimes connected without brackets - by cutting (Fig. 10, a), by cutting into half a tree (Fig. 10.6) or by cutting into a tenon (Fig. 10, c). In this case, all contacting surfaces of the parts are coated with glue, and pressing is done using clamps, screws or nails. However, it should be noted that endless knots, no matter how carefully they are performed, have less strength, since the area of ​​the adhesive joints is limited); much less than in bookstores. In addition, particularly careful processing of parts at the interface nodes is necessary, so amateurs, as a rule, are not recommended to use endless connections.

Curvilinear frames on small ships with round bilge contours can be bent, bent-glued and, less commonly, thrust. Bent frames are made in one piece; best of all - from ash or oak slats, riveted to the sheathing with copper rivets.

The blanks are pre-steamed and then bent in place when installed in the housing. Bent-glued frames. glued using templates from thin slats. When using relatively thick slats, you have to resort to preliminary steaming. When steaming, the wood becomes very moisturized, so you can glue curved slats only after the workpieces have dried.

Curvilinear frames of heavier boats can be made by thrust frames, preferably from curved frames. If straight-layer blanks are used, the weakening of the strength of the frames by connections must be compensated by increasing the cross-section of the parts.

For small kayaks and boats, curved frames are easier to glue from strips of waterproof plywood. To do this, a separate template-pattern is made from a wide board (or shield) 16-20 mm thick for each frame. Blank strips are cut from plywood, the width of which should be 3-4 mm greater than the width of the finished frame, and the length 80 mm greater than the length of the straightened frame. Select strips of the required size, apply glue to them and stack them on the edge of the pattern, which is installed vertically. Then they are pressed into a glued bag, driving nails from the keel to the sides. It is recommended to pull the ends of the frame to the edges of the pattern using rope or wire, as shown in Fig. eleven; this will prevent the frame from straightening after gluing. Nails for pressing are driven in, retreating from the edge by 4-6 mm, in increments of 40-60 mm; the pitch decreases in the cheekbone area, where due to a sharp change in the curvature of the frames, the plywood springs strongly. It is necessary to ensure that the edges of the strips are well tucked in and that the plywood does not split anywhere.

After the glue has completely hardened, the frame is removed from the pattern. The protruding ends of the nails are cut off in such a way that only small ends remain, sufficient for riveting on a washer or bending. You can bite off the nails flush and file them, but in this case, over time, the frames may delaminate.

The side edges of the finished frames are extended to the specified width. The frame removed from the pattern should not be skewed. Beams, like frames, can be solid (threaded) or bent-glued. There are cases when there is no frame in the plane of the beam (the so-called “idle” beams). The ends of such beams are attached to the sides with specially installed “hanging” half-frames (Fig. 12, a) or metal brackets (Fig. 12.6), or simply cut into an internal fender.

Frame frame parts can be attached to the longitudinal frame in various ways. The simplest connection is using relatively thin and long screws (Fig. 13, a). To increase strength, all contacting surfaces of the assembly must be carefully adjusted and coated with waterproof glue. In some cases, screws have to be placed along the fibers or at an angle to them, and the bonding strength of the end surface of one part to the side plane of another is always relatively low, so the strength of the joint in question as a whole may be insufficient.

It is more reliable to fasten the frames to the connections of the longitudinal frame using metal angle brackets on bolts (Fig. 13.6).

Bulkheads

It is advisable to make the bulkhead fabric from waterproof or ordinary, but well-impregnated with drying oil and varnished plywood. Waterproof cardboard or thin boards covered with some kind of fabric to ensure water resistance can also be used. A bulkhead kit consists of a perimeter frame and several posts, or horizontal ribs. The binding is performed in the same way as a regular frame frame, but the brackets are placed only on the side on which there will be no canvas (Fig. 14, a). If the bulkhead is reinforced with ribs, then they are placed at a distance of 300-600 mm from each other; the ends of the racks are secured by threading to the strapping (Fig. 14.6) or to the end (Fig. 14, c).

External cladding

The skin of wooden ships (Fig. 15) can be made of boards, slats, plywood or veneer. According to the design, plank cladding can be of the following types: smooth, smooth on groove slats, edge to edge (“clinker”, “overlap”), two-layer or three-layer diagonally-longitudinal and combined.

The minimum thickness of the sheathing smoothly for caulking is 13 mm; if you make the skin thinner, the caulking will not stick in the grooves; When gluing along grooves, the thickness of the boards can be significantly reduced, and, consequently, the weight of the body can be reduced. Sheathing boards are attached to the wall frames with screws with a diameter of 3.5-4 mm and a length of at least 2.25 times the thickness of the sheathing. The skin is riveted to the bent frames with copper rivets.

The technology for making sheathing from slats is described in detail in the articles by E. Kloss in the 1st issue of the collection and A. Tetsman in the 9th issue. The slats are connected to each other using glue and nails driven into the installed slats from the side of its free edge. Nails are placed in increments of 150-200 mm; their length should be such that they fit into the bottom rail by 15-20 mm.

The thickness of the sheathing made of slats for motor vessels 4-8 m long is 10-20 mm. The width of the slats usually does not exceed 35-40 mm, so they, unlike boards, almost do not warp. Good quality cladding is obtained if the length of the slats is equal to the length of the body. If the slats are shorter, they are joined, if possible, on frames. The slats are attached to the frames and longitudinal frames with nails or screws, recessing their caps by 1.5-2.5 mm so that they do not interfere with planing. The sheathing is cut along the slats or at a certain angle so that there are fewer scuffs.

Sheathing made of boards on grooved slats is used especially often on boats. The sheathing boards are connected to the groove strips with rivets or nails with a diameter of 1.5-3 mm, placed at a bend. Most often, the bottom branches of the frames - flortimbers - are cut into continuous groove slats, but other options can be used (split groove slats between the frames; installation of flortimbers without direct connection to the skin - on top of the groove slats).

Plywood sheathing is the simplest option, but it must be taken into account that plywood cannot be bent in two planes at the same time. In this case, the contours of the boats must be turned onto a plane, so the construction of a theoretical drawing of a vessel with such contours has a number of features. It is not possible to cover round-chine vessels with plywood. The concave or straightened outlines of the frames of sharp-chine ships have to be replaced with slightly convex ones. The plywood sheets “fit” quite well on such frames.

The sheathing sheets are glued together with a cut width of at least 15 sheathing thicknesses. A good miter joint can only be achieved with careful adjustment and processing of the surfaces to be glued. Sheathing sheets can also be joined on a joint strip by using rivets or screws for pressing.

Veneer cladding is most often used in the construction of light, round-billed, factory-built sports vessels (academic, kayaks, canoes, some dinghies, for example, the “Flying Dutchmen”), as well as a number of service and rescue vessels. Veneer cladding is glued together in the form of a shell of veneer strips in three or more layers. On kayaks and other very small vessels, there is usually no transverse frame; in some cases, the frames are relatively narrow strips of veneer or aircraft plywood glued in place (Fig. 16, a), which significantly strengthens the very thin skin.

The sheathing of larger dinghies (Fig. 16, b), as a rule, is reinforced not by a transverse frame, but by such connections and structures as a centerboard well, longitudinal bulkheads, sub-hull longitudinal slats, etc. Sometimes the sheathing of dinghies is made of three layers - “sandwich” construction: between the outer layers of thin plywood or veneer, a middle layer of thin slats with well-planed surfaces is placed.

If the ship's hull has such contours that it is impossible to use plywood for cladding in one or another area of ​​the hull, but it is advisable to sheathe the rest of the hull with plywood, the cladding is made of a combination. Some difficulties arise when connecting boards and plywood together. The easiest way is to connect them into a tongue and groove (Fig. 17). To do this, first install a sheathing of boards, then trim it in the plane of the frame and select a tongue and groove to the thickness of the plywood; The edge of the plywood sheathing is adjusted and secured with glue with screws in a checkerboard pattern. For greater reliability of the connection in question, in some cases the width of the frame on which the skin is joined is increased.

Deck flooring

On small ships, deck flooring is most often installed in separate sections: in the bow, in the stern and along the sides in the middle part (flooding). Structurally, the deck flooring can be made in the same way as the outer cladding. Making a deck from boards (Fig. 18, a) is not difficult; It is much more difficult to ensure the waterproofness of such flooring, especially from thin boards. Thick flooring (more than 25 mm) is caulked and puttied with putty prepared with waterproof glue. It is recommended to cover thin boardwalks with canvas and putty; in this case, the edges of the fabric must be folded over the sides under the collar and pressed (Fig. 18, b).

Plywood decking has much less weight than planks; make it simpler, easier to ensure waterproofing. However, plywood flooring can only be installed with such contours of the above-water part of the hull that the plywood will need to be bent only in one direction. The plywood flooring is attached to the beams with screws, and to the fender beam with screws and waterproof glue to improve the tightness of this most “dangerous” unit. The mating of the plywood flooring with the plywood sheathing of the side is easily carried out not only on the internal fender beam (Fig. 19, a), but also on the waterway (Fig. 19.6), or on the outer fender beam, which also serves as a shoulder (Fig. 19 , V).

On larger boats, thin teak or pine slats are often glued over the plywood decking. This design has the appearance of a classic stacked deck and at the same time is less sensitive to the sun. The most practical option is to cover plywood decks with fiberglass.

We considered the designs of certain components separately, but since they all work together in the hull, it is necessary to remember their relationship, the importance of the correct choice of the hull design as a whole, depending on the size, type of contours and operating conditions of the vessel, the availability of materials and experience. As a rule, the first issue, the solution of which determines the size of the spacing, the design of the set and the dimensions of its connections, is the choice of design and thickness of the outer skin. The reader will find an example of a comprehensive consideration of this issue for small vessels, for example, in. We also recommend that you read the articles in the same issue on the technology of amateur construction of small ships and the article about in the third issue.

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is a basic necessity, and in populated areas, the production and rental of watercraft is a profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this possible at all, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In the preparation of materials for this publication, the books “300 tips on boats, boats and motors” were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” ​​Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allow them to be used more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

1. A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
2. A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor transport) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. On board the boat, its registration number must be indicated in the prescribed form;
3. The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
4. Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
5. Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
6. The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

There are countless designs of small vessels, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
3. The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and load it for transportation with an adult and moderately developed assistant;
4. The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
6. The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
7. If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car.

Based on all the qualities, in addition to the price of materials, the best choice for your first vessel would be a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Planing ships.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• Boats made of foam plastic, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and rectangular planks, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boat.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal homemade vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you please, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the issue of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by current or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost much more than the best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the pond is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: If you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps of water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see the video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (item 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same applies to the sea sailing boat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small, quiet inland waters, the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

In slightly more difficult sailing conditions, with waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter allows the dinghi to ascend the wave more easily, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and dead weight of the dinghi almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. A sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of how a vessel moves under sail can learn to sail it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

In this case, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning out its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The energy consumption of the ship's propulsion for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability are reduced. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its formation along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with overlapping skin (see items 2 and 4 in the figure with types of boats). The ribs of the skin belts turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the bow wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent performance of the Viking warships, drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, the sheathing is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (while stationary) and dynamic while underway. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the capsizing moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.

The amount of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacenter M above the center of gravity G (see figure). A ship with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very rolly, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacenter first “runs away” upward from the center of gravity and then moves back. When M is below G, the capsizing moment will exceed the righting moment and the ship will capsize. Resp. the angle Θ for decked ships is called the angle of decline. The critical list for undecked ships will be that at which the ship draws broadside. Then Θ is called the flood angle.

Stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. For small ships, this is, on the one hand, bad, because a small vessel turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat sails with a critical list, then the list of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost invisible. When in the old days captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from a storm, ordered to “set sails as long as the masts can bear,” they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less regular small displacement vessel will be greater than the static one. In order for a boat, stable when parked, to capsize while moving, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship turns by shifting the rudder. The ship turns the oncoming flow of water slanting towards its bow, and the rudder only helps it to stand under it, see fig. on right. There, however, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is actually a projection of the center of rotation of the CG vessel onto the main plane (see below). From here there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on the rudder feather being too small. Its optimal area is approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of ​​the hull amidships, i.e. across at the widest part. Check and, if it does, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.

The position of the CV is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally. In a perfectly controlled ship without heeling, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what designers strive for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the roll. Romantic, but also dangerous, because... The ship's controllability decreases, which increases the risk of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general this is correct. For diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see Fig. From there it is clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CP and the CB are greatly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the design of the boat does not provide for sailing equipment, do not install a “homemade boat”. As a last resort and under completely favorable circumstances, you can construct an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine died, it’s a long way to the shore, you’re exhausted from rowing, but the wind is weak and the waves are insignificant.

The interaction of the thrust forces of the sail and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment that tends to bring it towards the wind, i.e. turn your nose directly into the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will take the wave on its bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far ahead of the central steering system, the ship will become difficult to control or even uncontrollable: it will begin to drift towards the wind, no matter how you turn the tiller; It's not far from here to trouble.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes relative to the wind, both the CP and the central axis shift. If the CPU ends up behind the central station, the ship will begin to fall into the wind (“wants” to become its stern), which threatens disaster. Hence the most important conclusion: do not experiment with sails without proper knowledge of seamanship! You risk making an “overkill turn” in light winds on calm water!

So that a vessel without a large deadrise of the bottom and lines specially designed for sails can carry sailing rigs, lifting keels are used - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells, see fig. on right. If the project has a sail, but no centerboard drawings, we reject it, ignorant. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail by stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull). Technically, this is the same as cutting the wings off an airplane or trying to fit them, the tail, and the jet engine onto a bus.

Outlines and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 Fig., and on pos. 2 – the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midsection plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Sectioning with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of fairly large ships, carried out on a small scale, to verify the coincidence of lines. On theoretical drawings of small ships, instead of fish, they often give drill lines along the frames, see below.

Just by looking at the theoretical drawing you can estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel is capable of sailing. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

• The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
• The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the ship's performance: using the trapezoidal method, determine the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part along the frames and segments, respectively. lengths are laid out along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half of not a drop, but an ogive-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-processing. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be generously saturated with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued together in advance into strips of the required length using a miter joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately trim plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

• Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear parts will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: Lately, quite a lot of amateurs have been assembling boats using confirmed furniture screws, using the same technological techniques as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil the fiberglass in a clean container for at least half an hour, then allow the container and contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water, and only then remove the fiberglass.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts from extruded polystyrene foam EPS is an effective way to increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
3. If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
4. Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
6. When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., as required by the project;
9. They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on ​​keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of greater than sewn capacity with single-curvature contours begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is uneconomical - too much of the rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the milled set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety says: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. on right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Possibly more: the mounting clamps on some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkability

A radical way to avoid the serious consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite easy to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+ρ), where W is the displacement in tons, 1 is the density of fresh water, ρ is the mass density of the foam. For example, if ρ=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring line and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now on sale there are autonomous LED lamps the size of a child’s fist with a built-in solar panel and battery. The anchor from this set deserves special attention.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from the optimal option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a welded Kurbatov anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). pig of 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme cheapness: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, therefore, to save the rower's muscular efforts, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades become of great importance.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil glue and protective coatings. Homemade boats with a steel bottom have one disadvantage: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not be examined.

Dory

The same author also developed a design for a dory sailing boat made of plywood, see figure; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short, steep “angry” wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the kit are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... The wooden parts of the set are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Since a dory can be sailed in quite strong winds, provision is made for taking one reef on the sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and central nervous system!

Do-it-yourself wooden boat, drawings and diagrams for building a model for an oar, pole and outboard motor.

To develop a version of the boat “Burmantovka” with plywood sheathing, the basis was taken from the article “Burmantovka” on the move under the “Whirlwind” of the magazine “Boats and Yachts” No. 3, 1970, where the design of a folk boat made of wood is presented, its technical and technical characteristics are given. operational characteristics.

The project is designed to build a Burmantovka prototype with your own hands, from plywood.

This design of a home-made swimming vessel with a relatively large carrying capacity, suitable for an oar, pole and motor, is recommended for small and medium-sized rivers, and is well suited for hiking and fishing.

It is light in weight, has good stability, strength, and is easy to manufacture.
The relatively narrow hull has a good stroke and easily copes with the flow of fast rivers.
The wide power range of the engine used will allow the boat to be operated in various conditions, depending on the expected load and specific purpose.

Sketch of the theoretical drawing of the vessel.

Description:

The frame of the boat is made of thirteen frames, a stem, a bookcase, and a transom, fixed to a keel beam, longitudinally interconnected by fender beams, side, bilge and bottom stingers.

The space between the walls of the hull is filled with polystyrene foam with a total volume of 0.2 (m3), which will keep the boat afloat in the event of flooding. The end part of the sides is covered with plywood or a wooden plank.

The main material for making the frame is:

• moisture-resistant plywood FSF, or aviation BS thickness: stem, transom - 24 (mm); frames – 16 (mm); knit – 10 (mm); deck flooring – 8 (mm); hull plating – 7 (mm); side trim – 5 (mm)
• pine slats – 20x40 (mm) (longitudinal fasteners)

The nose part can be made in one of two options - straight or rounded, as shown in the figure

The surface of the lower deck flooring is made rough.