Really why Amsterdam. Amsterdam is an IT leader disguised as a tourist city: how to move a specialist and how much it costs. Next to the Red Light District

She has been living here for three years. For 34travel, she spoke about life in the city, basic expenses, features of local urban culture, and the bicycle as an ideal time management tool.

Maria Ponomareva

I ended up in Amsterdam because I was looking for a master's course in cinema where the language of instruction would be English. I didn’t want to learn another language, so film schools in Poland, Germany and France were no longer needed, and flying to the other side of the world to Sydney or Beijing film schools was also not an option. British education was unaffordable, and the film industry in the US never attracted me. So that left the international film school programs in Europe.

The main option was with a strong 2-year Master of Film program. There was only one Erasmus program in cinema then, but now there are three - so if I had applied now, maybe I wouldn’t have flown to Amsterdam, but to, or. But I’m glad that I went straight to Amsterdam then. The program turned out to be exactly what I needed, and such an expat-friendly city is absolutely comfortable for me to be focused on my studies, and not on everyday or communication issues.

I have been living in Amsterdam for exactly 3 years - since August 2014. I am a film director and screenwriter: I write and shoot films, produce videos, go to film festivals, go to museums, write articles. In general, I still secretly believe that I live in two cities - I’m from Kyiv, and there I sometimes give lectures, moderate film screenings and make films.

About city cycling culture

In Amsterdam I ride my bike every day. This is not just an excellent fast mode of transport with all the safe infrastructure for movement, it is an ideal tool for time management: there are no traffic jams, distances in the city on average can be covered in less than half an hour and they are easy to calculate regardless of the time of day, because there are no bicycle traffic jams can not be.

Yes, at 9 am and 6 pm you can get into heavy traffic, and on garbage collection days, a narrow street can be blocked by a truck. But the traffic moves quickly, and the truck can be easily passed - it is easier to squeeze in on a bicycle than on a scooter or car. At any time of the day, small bridges over the canals can be opened, and in this case you will have to wait until all the barges have passed and traffic has been restored.

But when you’re on your bike, you can forget about typical types of stress like a crush on the subway, a late bus or strange music on a minibus. You just need to make sure that the tires are inflated and the brakes are not acting up, but otherwise, if you left on time, that means you arrived on time. No lateness.

In winter, however, I occasionally curse the Dutch weather, which instantly washes off my minimal makeup and prevents me from getting to work. Have you tried riding an exercise bike in the shower? Add an imaginary powerful fan in your face to help you imagine how much fun it is to ride a bike during the windy winter months.

“Have you tried riding an exercise bike in the shower? Add an imaginary powerful fan to your face to help you imagine how much fun it is to ride a bike during the windy winter months."

But that doesn't stop the locals, so it doesn't stop me either. Here the Danish neighbors come to the rescue with their expression “there is no wrong weather, only wrong clothes.” A good quality rain jacket, a scarf around my neck all year round and an incredible ability to enjoy sunny days without precipitation are my best friends.

But my particular pain, which appeared due to the fact that I am local here, is riding a bicycle in the center. In all other areas it is happiness. But, for example, recently my bell began to malfunction, and until I bought a new one, I cursed every minute of my walk in the Dam Square area. Even with a bell, people don’t understand that they are road users, and not just onlookers, and their movements can affect their and someone else’s safety. The scariest story from a cyclist’s point of view is a tourist who comes out to take a photo right on the bike path. Yes, I know that the sidewalks are not always wide, but you don’t go for a walk on the autobahn, right? And while some idiot decided to just look down, I go to work in traffic, sometimes sharing the road with cars, scooters, taxis, garbage trucks and other dangerous vehicles, reducing the distance with which and sharply slowing down is not at all in my interests. This is a very pressing issue. Therefore, although I try to change the route and avoid driving along the narrowest and most popular streets with tourists, the influx of tourists is only growing, their inattention is not going away, and sometimes my nerves and strong expressions are not enough.

And of course, rental bicycles. This is pain number 2. I personally shy away from bicycles rented from large rental points (their frames are painted in colors recognizable by locals) - you can expect anything from the people riding them except to behave safely on the bike path. If you ever decide to take a bike to Amsterdam, remember that this is not entertainment, this is a serious urban method of transportation. Even in Vondelpark, the paths are part of a busy flow. So if you’re going to take it, apply the knowledge from the traffic rules: you don’t need to drive in a screaming crowd on the right side of the lane, don’t honk for no reason, show turns. If you decide to just ride, go to quiet areas. In Oosterpark/Javaplein, Oud-West, Westerpark, Spaarndammerburt you will look at unobvious cityscapes and not run into anyone.

About life in the city

My attitude towards transport, public order, the cost of things and working hours has changed greatly. When you are, you complain about “these ubiquitous cyclists”, whine that everything is so expensive, try to buy tulips in January, completely disregarding the season. That is, you see the surface. Deep down is the practicality of the Dutch, the desire to be precise and care about society, and not about a narrow circle of loved ones and sharing an interest.

When you start living in Amsterdam, you pay taxes here, you know where the nearest police station is (not because there was a precedent, but because it is visual information, like all the necessary services of the city) - then you understand that yes, it’s expensive, but it’s obvious, where taxes go, it is obvious that the local community and the municipality listen to each other, that culture is expensive, but accessible to local residents. Therefore, the city remains comfortable for its residents, regardless of the area. And this is my great joy, because consistency and sustainability in urban space is not easy to achieve.

I really love Amsterdam for its development. No local in their right mind would come up with the idea of going to hang out in the Red Light District or Leidseplein, just as no one in Kiev would come up with the idea of going to Khreshchatyk. Therefore, it is very cool that in Amster local residents “hang out in the area” and the number of establishments, bars, libraries, and parks there is not inferior to the central ones, and sometimes even attracts much more. I lived in different areas of Amsterdam: Oost - Javaplein, Center - Joordan, West - Bos en Lommer, West - Spaarndammerburt, Oud-Zuid, and now Amstelstation. And in each of them I had a favorite cafe, local bar and park. It seems to me that for such a compact, and yet very developed advanced city in Europe, this is very cool.

About how the city is changing

I notice that there is a lot of restoration work going on, but it happens very quickly and always on a regular basis. Residents of the areas are aware of them, construction work is aimed at efficiency and maintenance, and not at delaying the process. The formula “time is money” is really critical here, because the builder receives a decent wage. It is often practiced to rebuild the interior of houses, in which the outer frame and facade are preserved. This is cool, because the appearance of the city does not change, but the quality of internal communications is improving.

It is also noticeable that a new metro line has been under construction in the city for several years. I sometimes go to visit friends who live in the Amsterdam Noord area and it's great to notice that new stations have finally begun to appear, so that not only the ferry and buses will unite this slightly separate part of the city with the rest.

“In Amsterdam, bureaucracy is minimized: you can register at your place of residence online, and in the municipality, banks and government agencies everyone speaks excellent English”

About basic expenses

Real estate is expensive in Amsterdam. Not just expensive, but very expensive. Therefore, I try not to compare with cities like , but simply take such prices as a given. The city is low-rise, and the Dutch are not ready to share many rooms and apartments with people who do not know their language. Prices will only rise due to the trend of many international companies relocating from London to Amsterdam or Frankfurt.

A large part of my monthly income is spent on rent, as well as on compulsory insurance, which also costs a lot, because... I work full time. Student insurance is cheaper, but it must be stopped at the end of your studies and is monitored very carefully. It is illegal to be in the Netherlands without insurance.

Amsterdam, in principle, is steep in prices in public places, but if you know about student prices for the opera from the mailing list or use the Cineville subscription card to go to the movies at all non-chain cinemas in the city, you can secure a decent cultural program.

About the difficulties for new residents of the city

The main thing that every new resident of the city faces is culture shock. If you live even a little more than a month in the city, spend time actively, take an interest in what is happening and are not always in an expat vacuum, then you can quickly understand that the Dutch are people of a unique mentality and culture. They are quite straightforward. Social rules are of great value to them, so they like to reprimand violators, teach and educate them without any reverence. Recently, I was riding a bicycle around a road being repaired, and I had to drive 50 meters onto the sidewalk. I was instantly stopped by some guy who blocked my way and lectured me about how badly I had behaved. On the other hand, the fact that everyone follows the rules disciplines and forces them to consciously respect public space.

“The Dutch are quite straightforward. Social rules are of great value to them, so they like to reprimand violators, teach and educate them.”

The Dutch, on average, are not very hospitable, so I, as a person with great love for visiting, treating and being treated, had to understand that hospitality and curiosity are not their strong point. They are great individualists, and their personal space is an important value. You shouldn’t expect that after a couple of meetings someone will call you “bro.” One day I went to a concert and then to a bar alone. Well, I’m not a timid person, and I wasn’t dressed in a spacesuit, but I left as I came, I’m alone. The Dutch are just generally not very interested in new people outside their established companies from school. And in general, whether you are from Ukraine, Chile or Malaysia - you are “this expat”, and not “a cool interesting foreigner”, as you might be perceived at home.

In everyday life, a person from Eastern Europe will be faced with the lack of central heating in their homes and the high price of it. I once lived for 2 winter months in the very center in an apartment with Dutch women. When I moved in and started adjusting the temperature in the apartment to my comfort level, they strictly forbade me from increasing the temperature on the thermostat, because otherwise we wouldn’t pay the bills. They were also very sincerely surprised that I didn’t like the temperature of +18 in the room and sleeping every day in woolen socks and with a heating pad. I was surprised in response and realized that these 2 months of cohabitation would not pass easily for us.

On the other hand, Amsterdam does not have incredible paperwork compared to other European cities, for example, neighboring Brussels. Bureaucracy is minimized by the presence of online services and digital ID. You can register at your place of residence either in person or online, and in the municipality, banks and government agencies everyone speaks excellent English.

Another distinctive feature of the city for me is the feeling of safety on the street at any time of the day in any condition. There are no so-called “troubled areas” in Amsterdam; the streets are quiet after 9, and there are enough police and patrols in the center to maintain order. It definitely adds to the comfort and confidence that I don't have to look over my shoulder every 100 meters on the way home at 3am just in case.

In Amsterdam there are many urban micro-front gardens right next to houses: rose bushes, hydrangeas and other beautiful climbing lush plants. There is little land - no more than half a meter from the sidewalk, but there is a lot of desire for beauty. These wonderful different plants bloom alternately all year round, so that the city, even in the most unpleasant weather, pleases with flowers near houses in most areas. A couple of weeks ago in the Oud-Zuid district, in one of these front gardens under the window of a city villa with a chic 19th-century facade, I saw a small pumpkin climbing its stems around the building, and a sunflower at the entrance. And all this is 5 minutes from the Van Gogh Museum.

About weekend trips

My recent discovery was a trip to Antwerp. 3 hours on the road and Belgian beer, oysters in front of the City Theater and a Uniqlo store at your feet. It's good to go to Belgium on weekends. My second favorite is Ghent. A little further from Antwerp, but if you combine it, it will turn out great.

You can go to the island of Texel for the weekend - look at the pens with sheep, go to the lighthouse in the north of the island and walk along the dunes. A great idea if you need to isolate yourself from city noise.

The Netherlands is, in principle, ready to provide full options for a day trip in any direction: Leiden, Scheveningen beach or Utrecht. My personal choice within the country is Dordrecht and. Cozy, not overcrowded with tourists, beautiful authentic cities with very decent city museums and cathedrals. Yes, and direct trains both run every half hour directly from Amsterdam.

And it is better to take parents who come to visit to Marken Island near Volendam. This is a real fishing village, which is located on an isolated piece of land in the inland sea. You shouldn’t expect anything supernatural from this place, but you will definitely find fresh herring with cucumbers and beautiful wooden klompa shoes there. What else do you need in the Netherlands?

Photo by Anna Ivanova, Anton Repponen

The Netherlands is a country of happy people. In the world happiness ranking (World Happiness Report 2017), the Netherlands is in sixth place. Over the past few years, about 20 prisons have been closed here because there are not enough criminals. Same-sex marriage and soft drugs are legalized in the country, and in Amsterdam there is even a park where sex is officially allowed. Despite the high prices and bad weather, this country of freedom attracts tourists from all over the world, and it seems that it does not disappoint anyone. In addition to the Red Light District and coffee shops, people come here for the canals, tulips, bicycles, Rembrandt and Van Gogh. A RIAMO columnist asked Elena, who moved to Amsterdam from Moscow, about Dutch freedom, bicycle traffic, relations between men and women, and friendship.

To Amsterdam viaBooking

The Netherlands is not my first experience of moving abroad. I was born in Rostov-on-Don, where I graduated from the university, then moved to Moscow to enter graduate school at Moscow State University, and after graduate school, after working in Moscow for several years, I ended up in Madrid.

I had never been to Madrid or Amsterdam before moving. And sometimes it seems to me that I am hoarding residences in countries where I would never want to live.

My first long trip abroad was to Spain. I went there for a two-month internship. I lived in Avila, which is 1.5 hours away from Madrid.

Madrid immediately captivated me with its openness and sunshine! After all, I am a southerner and the mentality of the Spaniards was very close to me. Living in Moscow, I yearned for the sun. But good weather was not the main argument in favor of the move. I moved to Madrid for love. A young man I met at Moscow State University proposed to me. After graduating, he entered the Madrid Business School. Very soon I found business partners there and began working on my project.

So, in 2015 I moved to Madrid and we got married. We probably would have continued to live in Madrid, but Booking.com came knocking on our door. A company representative contacted the husband and offered him an interview.

I didn’t seriously consider this possibility even when he went to the final head-to-head tour in Amsterdam, so I didn’t join him. But the Dutch company made a good offer to my husband. And after much talk and doubt on my part, I decided to support my husband.

After the Geography Department - to the environment of entrepreneurs

I am a geographer by profession. Before, I never understood people who, after graduating from university, did something unrelated to their profession. But while studying in my last year of graduate school, I was forced to look for a job. Then I found myself in my first startup, among entrepreneurs, which radically changed my idea of where I see myself and what kind of people I want to be surrounded by. Therefore, for more than 4 years I have been working in startups from different parts of the world, organizing meetings of interests, championships for entrepreneurs, symposiums for investors, helping to create inspiring success stories, etc.

Fear of isolation

To be honest, I didn’t want to move to the Netherlands. I was very confused by a new country that I had never been to and a language that I didn’t know. I didn't have a single close friend there, and I had to look for work again.

As someone who already had experience moving to Moscow and Madrid, I more than imagined that it would not be easy. Adapting to the culture and lifestyle, food and mentality in a new country takes a lot of time. When you move to live abroad for the first time, with the thought that you will finally be constantly with your loved one, you see only some advantages. And you don’t suspect that you can find yourself in social isolation from the first days and for an indefinite period.

I remember how, five months after moving, I returned to Russia and it felt like the plugs had been removed from my ears, because you were walking down the street and understood everything that was being said around you.

Next to the Red Light District

Before moving to Amsterdam, we were scared that it would be difficult to find housing here - there are a lot of offers, but the market is fast. We were lucky and found the apartment on our second viewing. Then we discovered that it is adjacent to the famous Red Light District, but this does not interfere with enjoying the city. It is located in the center, which makes all travel points accessible; the central station is only 10 minutes on foot.

For some reason, many compatriots compare Moscow prices with European ones. This is incomprehensible to me, because for me the main thing is how comfortable you live, spending and earning. Compared to Madrid or Moscow, I like the ratio of prices and comfort of life here. Although, objectively, prices for housing and food here are higher than in Madrid and Moscow, and expenses are higher. For example, as an expat you are required to have health insurance.

The fare costs 3 euros, if not with a local card, which works like the Moscow Troika. Renting housing is one and a half times more expensive than in Madrid, and twice as expensive as in Moscow. But with a similar consumer basket, life is comfortable and there is enough for everything.

In addition, it is easier here than in Russia to get a mortgage. Even expats take out a mortgage, since the interest rate is only 2.9% per year and you can get it without a down payment, all you need is a work contract and an open bank account.

It seems to me that if you have an idea to make money, then it’s not about going abroad at all. It's easier to make money in Moscow.

In Moscow, it is possible to find a well-paid job in your native language and save on some expenses. It is better to go abroad in order to get a new picture of the world, to try something alternative to the culture that is familiar to us. Here you need to be prepared that this new picture of the world may no longer fit into the old rut of life, since there will be a different understanding of yourself and your future.

How to become a resident

Booking.com helped us a lot to start living from scratch in the Netherlands. The company has established a process for obtaining residences for new employees and their family members. By the way, this is not the case everywhere in Dutch companies.

We collected all the documents, moved without obtaining additional visas, since at that time we had Spanish residences, and applied for residence in the Netherlands.

My husband and I especially remember our visit to the Expat Center; we have never seen such a service anywhere else. We arrived at the appointed time, they offered us coffee and tea, took us to the right specialist, explained the whole process, took photographs, and three weeks later we were already residents for five years. In total, the entire stay in the center took two hours, including travel. It's very fast, unlike Spain, where services work on an inconvenient schedule, you always stand in line, and in the end it will definitely turn out that you are in another department at the opposite end of the city. We received residences twice, and both times it was a complete mess.

Windows without curtains and the stereotype of Dutch openness

Of course, there are fewer sunny days here than in Madrid. But for some reason I don’t feel the rain and gray sky as much as in Moscow. Amsterdam is a very green city.

Amsterdam reminds me of St. Petersburg because of the many canals and London because of the beautiful and neat houses with spiral staircases in the old housing stock.

The first thing that caught my eye when moving was the large floor-length open windows without curtains. It bothered me for a long time that you can always see your neighbors from the window. I couldn’t shake the feeling that strangers were in my apartment. You can watch neighbors running around naked to the waist in the mornings and evenings. Mine even wave their hands if they notice me closing the window. But you get used to it.

This feature is not due to Dutch openness and absolute freedom, but to the small number of sunny days a year. In fact, looking into windows is considered bad manners here and, moreover, it is not customary to take photographs.

We have thick curtains, but we use them when necessary. And most of the time the windows also remain open.

About mice and two-room one-room apartments

The layout of Amsterdam apartments can also shock conservative Russians. For example, when we were looking for an apartment and came to the first one, I was amazed to find a shower stall built into the bedroom.

In St. Petersburg I saw a shower in the kitchen, but there were no curtains or doors, just a bed adjacent to a glass partition, behind which there was a shower.

The Dutch, like all Europeans, count the number of rooms by bedrooms. The hall in our understanding is not taken into account and is considered a service room. Therefore, you rent a one-room apartment, although by our standards it is a two-room apartment.

There are some difficulties in Amsterdam with garbage disposal. In the city center, garbage is separated and removed only on certain days, and if you have accumulated garbage earlier, you will have to take it out by car yourself.

Amsterdam is also a city of mice. There are a lot of them here. Sitting on the street near the canal you can see a mouse on the opposite side. Locals advise not to leave balconies open and close windows before leaving, since upon returning you may find uninvited guests from the family of rodents at home.

The smell of weed and the freshness of the canals

Coffee shops and gay pride parades didn’t bother me at all when moving. I could detect the smell of weed even after Madrid, although I had never tried anything like it. Actually, after Spain, same-sex couples walking hand in hand along the street did not surprise me either.

I haven’t been to coffee shops and, to be honest, I’m not drawn to them. Among my Dutch friends, I don’t know people who go there. There is a suspicion that this business is more aimed at tourists.

Red lanterns are one of the calling cards of the city, where now without them, it is one of the favorite tourist attractions.

My Amsterdam is not associated with this at all. For me, Amsterdam is the freshness of the canals, cycling life and incredibly delicious coffee at every turn.

Rules of cycling life

Bicycles are the main transport for Amsterdam. I have never seen such bicycle traffic as here. Here you are more likely to get hit by the wheels of a bicycle than by the wheels of any other vehicle.

When we moved, the company sent a detailed guide about the rules of living in the Netherlands. And there was an amazing question that very clearly describes what Dutch cycling is.

Is it legal to ride a bicycle with music in your headphones, talking on the phone, holding a dog on a leash, a cart with your weekly groceries, children in front and behind, and a rain umbrella in one hand? Answer: allowed, but perhaps not very safe.

It is more profitable to buy a bicycle in Amsterdam than to rent it, even for tourists. The price starts from 35 euros, so people buy them even when they come for a week, and then hand them over to special centers. You can rent in the centers, but it is not very profitable; you will have to pay at least 8 euros for a day of rental.

If you want to try living like the Dutch and get around by bike, your best bet is to use the city's bike-sharing system. There are many of them throughout the city, and the cost will be around 10-15 cents per trip. You can park anywhere where there is no sign prohibiting parking. In this situation, you don’t need to worry that your iron horse will be stolen, since they are stolen very often.

There is even such a joke - you are not Dutch if your bicycle has never been stolen.

On the streets of Amsterdam you can also find bicycles with a large trough in the front - bakfitz, that is, cargo bicycles for transporting children. The Dutch have a tradition of duty: if families live on the same street whose children go to the same kindergarten or primary school, then the children are taken in turns. On Monday, one mother gathers everyone, puts them in this trough and takes them away, on Tuesday another, and so on. Sometimes they ride and sing songs together, it looks very cute.

Practical Dutch women

Between beauty and practicality, Dutch women choose practicality. Of course, they can pedal in heels, but this is rather the exception. More often you meet girls with a minimum of makeup on their faces, disheveled hair and not particularly well-groomed. By the way, I often see hair that is not freshly washed. It seems to me that they don’t worry too much about their appearance, unlike our beauties. Although it’s generally difficult to look up to Russian girls. In no other European country do women pay as much attention to their appearance as in Russia.

If we talk about services - manicures and styling, then Amsterdam seems to me more advanced in this regard than Madrid. In Madrid, the service sector is simply disgusting, they suck at every step. But if we compare it with Moscow, our level of the beauty industry is still higher.

Friendship and marriage in Dutch

In Holland, as in Spain, it is not customary to marry early. Under 30 is considered early here. When my husband and I got married, I was 27, and this was considered very early by European standards, all my foreign friends constantly noticed this. I’m generally silent about children. There are a lot of mommies here over 35 years old.

At the same time, the Dutch are family people. This is the first country in the world where same-sex marriage was officially registered in 2001.

This suggests that the Dutch are almost one of the most tolerant nations in the world and always accept you for who you are. For all their openness, they clearly separate work and personal relationships. It is not customary here to make friends with colleagues the way we do here. You can have a drink after work, but most often after that the Dutchman will go to a party with his “non-work” friends.

Luckily, there are a lot of expats in Amsterdam, so there is always someone to hang out with. In general, young people are ready for informal communication and casual dancing in bars.

I have a lot of friends in Spain and Holland in mixed marriages. It’s difficult for me to say how the relations between men and women differ from Russian ones. I myself perceive many things as the norm, which may not seem quite so to those who now live in Russia. But I think it’s no secret that men throughout Europe are not accustomed to paying for women in the way Russian women expect.

How to find a job

It is always difficult for an immigrant to look for work, and primarily because of language problems. The Netherlands is one of the most advanced European countries in this regard, since 90% of the population here speaks English, of which 50% are expats, for whom English is the main language of communication. By the way, practicing Dutch here is quite difficult. When the Dutch hear your accent, they switch to English. But you can find a job without speaking Dutch - I’m an example of this. Unlike Spain, where it is almost impossible to find a job without knowing Spanish.

There is no point in comparing salaries separately, since there is also a lot of spending here, plus taxes are higher. Although here, if you were hired by a company and you moved and didn’t find a job, a reduced tax applies for the first 8 years.

I had difficulties finding a job. And primarily due to the fact that each labor market has its own requirements for candidates and its own way of searching for applicants. You won’t understand these features until you go through interviews. In addition, in Europe, people are more accustomed to personal meetings over a cup of coffee and conversations “how can I help” than here. But this requires a certain courage and openness.

Now I am developing a community of ambitious women who want to succeed. We organize inspiring events for them, meetings with investors, mentors and experts from different industries, etc. It is a great success for me to collaborate with such a company, since I dreamed of doing all this for women entrepreneurs.

There are a lot of companies, corporate headquarters and a developed entrepreneurial community here. Plus, there are companies and roles where Dutch is not required, and knowledge of any foreign language will be an advantage. Although IT specialists, as in many European countries, are especially valued. The question is more about how to reach the community that is relevant to you and meet exactly those you need. But here there are more events and conferences to help.

Gay Pride Parades and King's Day

The first of the unusual holidays that we don’t have is the gay pride parade. As in Madrid, this is a very large-scale event here. I can say that in Russia the New Year celebration may even be inferior in scope to the Amsterdam Gay Pride Parade.

Large platforms with discos, music, fireworks float along the canals, each of them has its own theme and style.

Another of the most beautiful festivals in Amsterdam is the Festival of Lights, when the canals are illuminated. It takes place in December.

King's Day, which many tourists have heard about, is celebrated at the end of April and is seen as a national day of unity and solidarity. On this day, a kind of carnival is organized - all townspeople dress in orange, concerts and street fairs are held, where anyone can become a seller. Interestingly, the police are not allowed to interfere, so by evening the city turns into a garbage dump. But during the night it is cleaned out again, and by morning no traces of the celebration are visible.

Christmas holidays have a O greater significance than New Year. The fairs open in early November with carousels, goodies and music.

Fast food herring

When it comes to local food, the Netherlands is not a gastronomic country. As colonizers, the Dutch have a kitchen full of dishes from all over the world. There are practically no traditional dishes or desserts here; sandwiches are often eaten for lunch. But there are many interesting places with food from Asia, Africa and Latin America.

The local fast food is haring, or Dutch herring, which is sold in Amsterdam in trailers reminiscent of hot dog stands. I don’t really like it, although it differs from herring in the usual sense. The taste is very delicate. Serve it on a disposable plate with diced onions and pickled cucumber, or in a bun. It will always be fresh and lightly salted.

Cheese shops and klomps

This is where you need to bring cheese. Traditional Dutch cheese is Gouda, a special type of it called Old Amsterdam, with a hard structure and buttery consistency. In Dutch cheese shops you can try cheeses aged from two months to two years, with seasonings, tomatoes, basil, nuts and other additives.

In addition, there are traditional Dutch waffles - they are thin, with a layer of condensed milk.

The most popular souvenir, which is depicted on magnets and keychains, is klomps - traditional Dutch wooden shoes. Their appearance is associated with the specific climate. Once upon a time, the resourceful Dutch prepared the first pair of wooden shoes for a child immediately after his birth. Also, clogs are a special symbol for lovers. Once upon a time, guys gave them to girls if they wanted to propose marriage.

Friendship with expats

In Amsterdam, it is not uncommon for a Brazilian, an Australian, a Chinese, a Russian, an American and a Pole to be in the same room. I have a very large circle of friends and acquaintances here. And I really like to communicate. I don’t experience a shortage of live communication, unlike when I first moved to Spain.

When we moved here, friends introduced us to their acquaintances who had been living here for a long time. We started hanging out with many of them on a regular basis. In addition, at Booking.com we have our own sect of partners who moved with their families. Every week we meet for coffee, exchange new experiences, get to know new arrivals, and they appear all the time, go to museums, etc.

In addition, I actively go to various business meetings and find interesting people in my dance community. It is an unusual feeling when you are among people who were born and raised in completely different cultures and with different mentalities, but you are united by one very strong quality - the desire to try new experiences in another country, to learn alternative ways of perceiving the world. And this is the most amazing thing - meeting like-minded people from different countries.

There are a lot of Russians in Amsterdam. In my opinion, more than in Madrid. But I don’t try to group myself according to nationality; rather, I choose with whom I am more interested and who inspires me, and these are not necessarily Russians.

Why come

It's very easy for a tourist in Amsterdam because everyone speaks English. Any services, any purchases - everything is convenient, however, Visa and Mastercard may not work in some stores. But overall there is a lot to see and try.

1. On Dam Square, the main square of Amsterdam, the movement of tourists does not stop on any day of the year at any time of the day. Some tourists look a little... strange.

2. Amsterdammers always carry a raincoat with them, because due to the proximity of the sea, the weather in Amsterdam is unpredictable and rain can start at any moment. With an umbrella on a bicycle (and this is the main transport in the city), you won’t be able to travel much, but with a raincoat it’s just right.

4. Amsterdam is a city of canals with more than 600 bridges spanning them. The most beautiful are Blauburg and Mahere Brug (“Skinny Bridge”).

5. The most enjoyable way to get around Amsterdam is by bicycle. More than half a million “iron horses” are registered with local residents! Tourists can rent bicycles right in the city center.

6. As you know, Amsterdam is located below sea level and is protected from it by a dam. According to legend, one day the sea found a small hole in the stone, which could grow under the pressure of the water mass, and then... goodbye to both the dam and the beautiful city. But this threat was noticed by a boy passing by and was not taken aback - plugging the hole with his finger, he began to call for help. The city was saved!

7. Amsterdam is home to several world-famous beers, such as Grolsch. This beer has been brewed in the country since 1615 according to an exclusive Dutch recipe. It is served in 250-gram glasses with an inch and a half head of foam.

8. 55% of Amsterdam residents speak three or more languages.

9. The basis of the city's prosperity is beer. In 1323, the ruler of Holland improved this port city for the convenience of importing beer.

10. In the 18th century, the city council, in order to reduce noise levels, banned carriages from traveling along cobbled streets. Therefore, we had to ride in a sleigh in the summer.

11. The city almost gave its name to New York. The Dutch colony of New Amsterdam was renamed New York in 1664.

12. The Dutch sex industry is valued at more than $2,000,000. This amount is divided approximately in half between pornography and prostitution.

13. Amsterdam is one of the safest cities in Europe, but beware of the usual petty scams and pickpockets. The police here are also very calm, but it is better to always have your passport with you (this is required by law, and tourists are sometimes asked to present an identification document).

14. Among the 2,400 houseboats on the city's canals is a "cat ship" where stray animals live.

15. In the Maritime Museum of the Netherlands you can see a unique exhibit - a gray piece of leather with a white coating that once belonged to Lieutenant Jan van Spijk. In 1831, when the Belgians defeated the Dutch fleet, the lieutenant refused to lower the flag. Instead, he threw the cigar into the powder magazine, blowing up himself, the ship, and the crew.

16. Amsterdam has the most incredible museums, including ones dedicated to the history of sex, drugs, tattoo art, etc.

17. Amsterdam is often compared to Venice, but there are many more canals and bridges here. The city has about 1,200 bridges, more than 150 canals and about 90 islands. Amsterdam is built entirely on huge stilts driven into the ground under thick water.

18. Despite the legalization of recreational drugs, Amsterdam is one of the safest cities in Europe.

19. They say that when the “iron horse” becomes unusable, a real Amsterdammer throws it into the canal, which is why the bottom of the most popular canals is literally littered with bicycles.

20. The red light district in Amsterdam is officially called "De Wallen".

21. Amsterdam became the first city in the world to officially allow same-sex marriage in 2001.

22. Amsterdam's parks and nature reserves make up more than 12% of the city's total area, but heavy urbanization has completely destroyed the natural landscape and landforms.

23. Representatives of more than 170 nationalities live in the capital of Holland!

24. The police department, which is responsible for parking, is the only one that has armored glass, as there have been cases when angry motorists were very “dissatisfied” with the blockers on the wheels.

25. You won't be able to buy an apartment in the city center. You will have to buy a whole house or several at once.

26. There is not a single free parking lot in all of Amsterdam.

27. Prostitutes in Amsterdam pay taxes and have social security. package and your own trade union.

28. In Amsterdam there is an entire area of 18,000 floating houses that can accommodate 45,000 people. Some of them are placed on special piles.

29. The Dutch love to make puree (eten prakken). Not just from potatoes. They grind any products. The best example of the Dutch love for puree is the traditional dish stamppot. It is prepared from greens and various vegetables. Everything is boiled, then ground and topped with sausage. Some Dutch even turn pasta and French fries into some kind of mush.

30. In the Netherlands, curtains are either wide open all day or not at all. Do the Dutch always want to see what's outside? Trying to let more light into the living room? Or they just don’t want to buy curtains? Whatever the reason, it is clear that the Dutch are open-minded. But don’t even think about looking through the windows at what they’re doing. This is considered very indecent.

I've always suspected that Amsterdam is full of mysteries. Why else would so many of the pleasures available in the Netherlands be prohibited in other countries? In December, I completely accidentally found myself in this city and found housing with the help of couchsurfing, after which there were even more unsolved secrets. Now I read everything about Amsterdam and try to understand its secrets. I’ve collected 25 funny or little-known facts in this post – I’m sure you’ll be interested too.

Amsterdam is now in my TOP 3 cities in the world along with Paris and Moscow

The first streets of Amsterdam

There is a joke about the Dutch language. A drunken German sailor comes ashore in England and tries to speak English. What he achieves is the language spoken on the streets of Amsterdam.

The first event in the life of Amsterdam, worthy of chronicle recording, occurred in 1204. Then local residents decided to build a dam on the Amstel River near their fishing village to get rid of constant flooding. "Amstel" translated from ancient German means "Spaces with an abundance of water."

What was going on in other cities around the world at the same time? Not long before this, Moscow was founded as one of the fortresses to protect the Suzdal lands. Medieval Paris, they say, was not particularly splendid at that time, but in London the London Bridge had just been built, which stood for 600 years and remained the only bridge across the Thames for half a millennium. It was during that period that the Mongols completely destroyed the city, which was on the site of modern Beijing.

View from Amsterdam Central Station to “expanses with plenty of water”

At the end of the 13th century, a terrible natural disaster occurred - a terrible flood. It turned Lake Flevon, on the shores of which Amsterdam was located, into a bay. This event was the best in the history of the current capital of the Netherlands. It turned a small fishing village into a large city, a center of maritime trade and a meeting place for seafarers. Amsterdam rose greatly when it began to trade with the Hanseatic League, acquiring grain and timber. Already at the beginning of the 14th century it officially became a city.

The streets of Amsterdam were literally built by the hands of residents. Excess moisture was pumped out by the legendary mills, which became the hallmark of Amsterdam and were glorified in the paintings of Flemish painters. The townspeople reclaimed every section of the drained territory, throwing stones, brought earth, and absolutely any rubbish at it.

It looks like the houses of sorcerers, doesn't it?

Buildings on the streets of Amsterdam stand on 20-meter stilts and resemble bird houses or the homes of sorcerers and magicians. The wider the facades of the houses, the richer the owner was. The fact is that in the old days there was a tax on windows and the width of facades.

Sailors of the 14th century who arrived in Amsterdam from all over the world often confused women of easy virtue with ordinary ladies who strolled along the embankments. So the prostitutes were forced to walk with red lights and were given a separate area - De Wallen, better known as the Red Light District in Amsterdam. It centers around the Old Church, the oldest building in the city.

Amsterdam's Old Church - the center of the Red Light District

In the 16th century, the Netherlands became part of Spain. However, living in the power of Philip II was not easy for the Dutch. Thus began the War of Independence, which lasted for 80 years. As a result, the revolutionary leader of the revolution, William of Orange, nicknamed the Silent, made the Netherlands a republic.

According to legend, during the time of Spanish rule, one evil governor executed 18 thousand people in four years, and then banned curtains so that the Dutch would not organize secret gatherings. Whether this is true or not, living without curtains is still a very common phenomenon in Amsterdam. It’s incredibly interesting to spy on the home theater of life in the Netherlands.

Amsterdam canals and other signs of the "Golden Age"

The first pillar of explosive economic growth was the policy of freedom. Tired of the inquisitorial methods of the authorities of other countries, scientists, artists, writers, teachers, and alchemists poured into the country. True, during the years of the Inquisition, many of them were executed on New Market Square on suspicion of witchcraft. If a woman weighed less than 50 kg, she was recognized as a witch and burned. The witch hunt continued in Europe for 200 years.

Amsterdam canals

The entire 17th century is called the “Golden Age” of Amsterdam. It was then that it was considered the most successful “business center” and the largest seaport in the world. Dutch merchants traveled to Africa, Brazil, Indonesia, the famous East India Company was created, and then the West India Company, and the Netherlands became a leader in world trade. Henry Hudson explored the coast of North America, and then the Dutch founded “New Amsterdam” there, which the English colonists later renamed New York.

Mysterious city on the Amstel River

In the 17th century, the great artist Rembrandt lived in Amsterdam. Marrying an ugly but rich girl, Saskia, gave Rembrandt the opportunity to enter the upper echelons of society. The wife, exhausted from childbearing, died at the age of 30 and bequeathed her estate to her husband. However, with a caveat: if he does not marry again. He complied with the requirement, but, of course, did not refuse female affection. And 20 years later, when he squandered all the money he inherited and earned through his creative work, he even sold the tombstone from the grave of his once beloved wife. Rembrandt's house was sold for debts, and today it houses a wonderful museum of the artist. This is one of the most famous landmarks in Amsterdam.

Also in the Golden Age, the alchemist Spinoza lived in Amsterdam. The parents hoped that their son would become a brilliant rabbi. It turned out the other way around. The young man became interested in physics, mathematics and philosophy, rejected Judaism and even changed the name Baruch to the Latin Benedict. As a result, he was cursed: there was even an attempt on his life, but the wound turned out to be harmless.

Amsterdam canals

In the 17th century, the architect Hendrik de Keyser developed plans for the construction of Amsterdam's famous canals, which surrounded the city. Their depth is three meters. The Dutch joke: we have a meter of water, a meter of mud and a meter of bicycles there.

They say that in the 17th century, a tulip bulb was worth a huge fortune, and residents of Amsterdam were ready to sell their house and all their belongings for rare varieties. The country has experienced tulip ups and downs, but today there are many plantations with these flowers, and every year a tulip parade is held.

I AMsterdam

According to legend, Peter I became the first Russian Freemason, just after he traveled to Holland. He supposedly became a member of one of the lodges in Amsterdam in 1697. Russian “free masons” chose to trace their ancestry back to the Tsar-craftsman, which was quite consistent with their “construction” legend.

Important sights of Amsterdam

On Dam Square, the main square in the city, is located one of the most important architectural monuments of Amsterdam - the Royal Palace. The building was also built during the Golden Age. Before him, no large houses were built in the capital, since the soil could not support them. But in 1648, the architect Jacob van Kampen defied nature by starting the construction of the largest town hall in Europe. The building does not have a main entrance, which constantly confuses tourists. The fact is that in 1535 the previous town hall was stormed by Anabaptists, then demonstrations and skirmishes often took place in Amsterdam, and the lack of a main entrance prevented rapid entry into the building. Today, the Royal Palace is the temporary residence of King Willem-Alexander and a famous landmark of Amsterdam.

Selfie on Dam Square opposite the Royal Palace

When Napoleon occupied the Netherlands, prostitution was officially legalized here. Workers in the Red Light District in Amsterdam were required to check with a doctor twice a week. Those who were healthy received red cards, which gave them the right to continue working. Ladies with bad tests were given a white card, a ban on further work and a referral for free treatment.

Before the outbreak of World War II, Amsterdam was the center of the world's diamond industry. Business was concentrated mainly in the hands of Jewish families. During the war, the city was captured by German troops, and more than 100 thousand Dutch Jews died in concentration camps. One of the most poignant stories on this topic is the diary of Anne Frank, the entries kept by a Jewish teenager while her family hid in shelter on Amsterdam's Prinsengracht canal. Anna died at the age of 15 in the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp from typhus. Her father was the only one of the whole family to survive and published a diary. Today, many films have been made based on it, UNESCO has recognized it as a “Memory of the World,” and the former refuge of the Frank family has become a world-famous museum in Amsterdam.

Amsterdam - the city of bicycles

Amsterdam residents switched to bicycles after the war, when the crisis broke out and no one had money for gasoline. The city, however, was completely unsuited to this type of transport. When 400 children died in bicycle accidents in one year, mass demonstrations took place and bicycle lanes were created throughout Amsterdam. Now, thanks to their two-wheeled hobby, the Dutch are one of the healthiest nations in the world. The average Amsterdammer's bike is stolen three times in his life, so no one here buys new ones. Sometimes a special service cuts off abandoned, long-rusting bicycles chained to the fencing of the Amsterdam canals. Most likely, these are the vehicles of the dead people.

Cat ladder in Amsterdam

Orange is the color of the Dutch royal dynasty. Even domestic cats, with rare exceptions, have a red color. There is a special attitude towards these animals in Amsterdam - they are considered intermediaries between people and the other world. “Cat Cabinet” is a chic museum in Amsterdam, entirely dedicated to cats, where cats are also caretakers. And homeless animals live on a specially equipped cat barge. Of course, I didn’t even go to this Amsterdam landmark with my allergies.

The Netherlands has many pleasures that are forbidden to other countries. Not only coffee shops and smart shops are legalized here, but also gay marriage. At the same time, Amstredam is distinguished by the integrity and culture of its residents, and its crime rate is extremely low. All migrants must undergo a tolerance test.

Red Light District in Amsterdam

In 2000, prostitution was also legalized in Amsterdam. It was recognized as a common profession. Today, girls in revealing outfits stand in the windows of the same De Wallen quarter. Red lanterns were left because they perfectly attract attention and effectively hide skin defects. Prostitutes pay rent for their storefronts from 600 euros per month, as well as taxes to the state. The average session in Amsterdam's Red Light District lasts only 10-15 minutes and costs between 50 and 200 euros.

The most famous museum in Amsterdam

The round building on the right is the famous Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Vincent Van Gogh became an artist only at the age of thirty and painted over 800 paintings in seven years. But only one of them found a buyer during his lifetime. He died at 37, and in 1973 one of the most famous museums in Amsterdam opened. It has the world's largest collection of Van Gogh's works. I stood in a huge line there, and every visitor does so - this place is so popular today.

I really like the approach to the work of the excursion project “Amsterdam at 15:15”. They try to tell the same way I write my guidebooks: a maximum of fascinating stories and legends from the past and present of the city, a minimum of dry dates. The guide's story always contains useful information about public transport, national cuisine, museums and so on.

These excursions take place in different European cities. They always start at 15:15. The most important thing is to register. Then the guide will come to the appointed place on any day convenient for you, even if you are the only excursionist. A two-hour walk with an interesting story in Russian costs only 15 euros - this is even cheaper than “free” excursions around the world, which may then require a tip of about 20 euros.

If during registration you write “friend of Olya Cherednichenko” in the comments, then the walk will cost you another euro less – the cost of a tour of Amsterdam will be 14 euros.

I went to Amsterdam spontaneously. While walking around Brussels, I accidentally met my St. Petersburg colleague, gastronomic journalist Marina Mironova, and her husband. They showed me one of the best Belgian oyster restaurants, told me about Marina’s recently published book “Food Without Borders: Rules for Delicious Travel” and inspired me to go to Amsterdam, where they themselves had just arrived. A day later I was already on the train to the city that I had dreamed of visiting for so long. I found housing through couchsurfing. My host Hendrik told me that there is no better university in the Netherlands - all universities provide the same quality education. Also, the salaries of representatives of the same professions are the same in different cities of the country. It's not that they are overpriced in Amsterdam. The pay is quite decent, so Hendrik works only three days a week and, naturally, does not sit in the office until the night. In the Netherlands you can choose how many hours you want to work. And the Dutch are really very tall. The toilet in his house was reinforced in such a way that when I sat on it, my legs dangled, not reaching the floor))

Amazing Amsterdam

If you liked this post and you also want to learn how to write about travel in an exciting way, watch mine from anywhere on the planet or come to my live one in Moscow at the Media School from March 28 to April 27, 2017.

If you are planning a trip to Europe, then in this article I will give just four reasons why you should visit and include it in your travel plan.

The European capital is the size of a village.

Compared to European capitals such as London and London, the center is relatively small; it is inhabited by slightly more than 740 thousand inhabitants, which allows tourists to fully experience the atmosphere and secrets of the city. This European capital is more like a village, and you can get to know its attractions better by simply renting or walking in just a few days. Due to this compactness, there is no need to waste time planning global tours of the city, trying to see too much in too short a period of time.

The magic of a floating city

Most people, even those who have never been to the island, have probably heard of it, which is certainly worth a visit: 165 canals and 1,281 bridges that connect 90 islands create the feeling of a floating city. – this is something that must be done without fail, as they say “must do”. A walk through the winding, narrow streets along the canals will enhance the sense of magic that it possesses.

An object lesson in European history.

Distinctive architectural features are the warehouse buildings and elegant houses that rise along the city, built by wealthy merchants during the Golden Age (17th century). More than 6,800 buildings have the status of a historical monument and are protected by the state; the date of their construction varies from the 16th to the 20th centuries. The center is perhaps the largest historical part of the city in Europe.

Unique world-class museums

You can see the masterpieces of Dutch masters of painting from the time when it was the richest city in the world in; learn about the post-impressionism style and the secrets of a man who is considered one of the most outstanding artists - in; explore the narrow annex in which 8 Jews hid for two years during the Nazi occupation