What kind of skis for soft snow? The warmest ski resorts. What types of fastenings are there?

Tips and instructions

Introduction

Below is a text that is a summary of amateur experience. No more. Consider this an invitation to discussion.

Part 1

Does plastic dry?

The wettability of plastic by paraffin is a phenomenon in the thinnest boundary layer. The presence of contaminants and oxidation can prevent contact between plastic and paraffin. The paraffin film will not be continuous, and therefore will not be durable. It is often recommended to scrape new skis immediately. This is an unnecessarily harsh method. New skis can be fuzzy, can be rubbed with greasy hands, and will not take wax. However, the store structure is more good than bad, and it is advisable to preserve it. There is a gentle method for updating the sliding surface (SP) - using a thin steel brush. Then wash the skis with service paraffin and carry out basic preparation.

Pile

The joint of the new ski is smooth, beautiful, the structure is visible, but... it doesn’t roll at all. Perhaps they were unlucky in the weather. But the most likely reason is lint. Cheap (and expensive!) plastic skis, when applied to the structure, can be covered with thin elongated particles of plastic. The edges of the grooves of the new structure are uneven and torn. Alas, it is impossible to feel the character of a ski if there is pile on the joint. In order for the skis to perform well in the weather, the pile must be cleaned.

Options:

Alternating treatment of skis with soft and hard paraffins, cleaning with rotary brushes. The best brush for cleaning lint is steel very fine racing (very thin steel, very expensive).
Ride, apply paraffin and ride. Skis can take a long time to go, sometimes after 500 km.
Cycle new skis. You can lightly remove the lint with a razor scraper, or you can completely demolish the store structure.
Polishing with a synthetic dishwashing cloth without abrasive crumbs - an analogue of branded fibertex - can help. A combination of methods works.

Ski profile

For Atomic they write that they have a Worldcup Speed profile, for Fisher - Worldcup Skate, and so each manufacturer has its own words. So what is it? Modern skis can have different widths at the tip and tail, and in the last. The distribution of the width of the ski along its length is called the profile. It came from alpine skiing. Skis that are narrowed in the last have a “fitted” profile. These skis are more comfortable to push on hard, icy slopes. Now the skating stroke itself has changed, everyone has become concerned about directional stability when skating on one leg. An “arrow-shaped” profile appeared. But they often write one thing, but if you measure a ski with a ruler, you will see something else. In any case, the profile is not a reason to prefer a certain brand of skis. After all, it is not the profile itself that works, but the connection between torsional rigidity and profile. If the tip of the ski is made soft, then there is no point in loading it when pushing off; it must be narrowed. At the point where the ski's force plate begins, which determines its torsional resistance and rigidity, it is wise to widen the ski. We get the Rossignol Cobra and Worldcup Speed Atomic. And Fisher does the same. Further, depending on the internal structure, the relative rigidity of the central part of the ski, it is advantageous to narrow it or leave it flat... That is, any profile of top skis is good. It corresponds to the diagram, the diagram corresponds to the weather/ski track. Madshus produces skis with three different contours for different slopes and corresponding profiles.

How to measure the immeasurable?

It's very interesting to find out how different skis interact with the snow. It is not possible to directly observe the process; models are built. Skis are measured in laboratory conditions. The problem is that it's hard to model everything. For example, a skier skates on one ski, putting his weight close to the heel of the boot, and pushes somewhere near the toe of the boot. That is, during each step it rolls from heel to toe. In the laboratory, the snow was replaced with a solid base, and the point of application of the skier’s weight was recorded. When talking about the diagram of a ski, you need to understand that this is just a model. And measuring skis for soft snow on hard ground is wrong. But it's simpler.

What are “warm” skis and “cold” skis?

The diagram of a ski is how the ski distributes the weight of the skier model onto the snow model (solid base). The most obvious characteristic of a ski that determines gliding in different conditions. There is a B-shaped diagram, typical for frosty skis, and there is a C-shaped diagram for warm weather. Mentally put the letters B and C on their side and you will understand what we are talking about. The difference is in the sharpness of the pressure peaks and the length of the pad. The B-pattern has long, smeared pressure peaks under the front and rear of the ski, evenly distributing the skier's weight. This is good for frost and soft skiing. The C-shaped one has sharp pressure peaks, which reduces the phenomenon of “suction” in wet conditions, convenient on hard ski tracks.

Skis with a combined BC pattern are common. The anterior pressure hump is sharp (C) and the posterior hump is smooth (B). There is also an A-diagram. The last is very long, the ski is like a spring, the tip and tail are very rigid. In order to make skis with different contours, the design of the ski is changed. Madshus makes skis of three designs (three different diagrams): SC, R, HP. For soft, regular and hard snow, respectively.

Fisher produces skis of the 610 and 115 designs for soft and dense slopes, Atomic simply writes warm or cold (warm or cold) diagram. Not to be confused with plastic and structure! The letters on the sticker w or c - the type of diagram determined by the design of the ski (warm, cold), y or d - the type of plastic (warm, cold). For non-sports skis, warm plastic is applied to the warm structure. In the sports shop you can find ones that are cold in design, but with warm plastic, and vice versa. Those. a ski with any diagram can have warm or cold plastic (graphite content depends) and a huge variety of structures on the sliding surface. It is not surprising that professionals carry bags with 20 pairs of skis. It's also difficult for amateurs. After all, no amount of lubricant can change the design of the ski, but you want to go fast both in the cold and in the spring... Talking about the “versatility” of Fisher and the “narrow range” of Madshus are marketing tricks. Moreover, the better the manufacturer masters the technology, the more “sharply” he “sharpens” his skis for specific application conditions. You have to have a lot of skis. Different brands. Specialization of skis according to the type of diagram is a correct and inevitable process.

What is "suction"?

When you try to ski on “cold” skis in warm weather, you notice how, when accelerating, the ski begins to slow down and sticks. Although at the lowest speed the glide can even be ideal. This inhibits the viscosity of excess water created by friction. This is dealt with in the same way as in seaplane floats (they use redan) - by reducing the contact area. To reduce the area of contact of the joint stock with the water film, skis with a special diagram, structure, and knurling are used. The purpose of fluoride lubricants is the same, but when a lot of water is formed, the lubricant does not cope.

Structure

The structure is a three-dimensional pattern cut or extruded onto the joint venture. Depending on the properties of the snow, it is designed to drain or retain water generated by friction under the ski. In warm conditions there is a surplus of water, in frosty conditions there is a shortage. Structures can be linear or discontinuous, for example, the “intermittent herringbone” type. There are several explanations for why they work. (And they work!) According to one of the options, the structure is a drainage, with the help of which water is displaced to a less loaded place in the joint venture. The wetter the snow, the deeper and longer the drainage must be to remove water from under the pressure humps. According to another explanation, the structure is “drainage in reverse.” The snow under the furrow experiences less pressure than under a flat surface and does not melt; the water rushing along the ski runs into a snow island and breaks away from the joint. That is, the furrows are not conductors of water, but vice versa. I think that both options correctly explain the operation of different types of structures (linear and intermittent) for different weather conditions.

The colder and drier the weather, the shallower the drainage. There are extruding knurls for applying a frosty structure with rollers that form almost transverse dents on the joint (herringbone) without any longitudinal grooves at all. The opposite is also true. On water, the Super Riller from SWIX is often used, which cuts wide linear furrows on the SP. Even the small amount of fluff that is formed does not interfere with (help?) improve the glide.

Please note that the structure does not eliminate the need for a special diagram. The possibilities of the structure are limited.

I've heard many times that cold skis went for warmth, and warm skis for frost. There is nothing surprising about this. This once again proves that the shape of a ski is more significant for gliding than the type of plastic and structure. Atomic's warm skis have sharp, short contact zones with the snow, which helps on hard skiing. Hard ski track - there hasn't been any snowfall for a long time, the ski track has been rolled up. But when it’s cold, precipitation is least likely. So the warm ski rolls on the hard frosty snow. Cold skis distribute pressure more evenly across the snow, which sometimes allows you to avoid sinking on a broken track in fresh snow. When it's warm, precipitation is more likely than when it's cold. That's right, when choosing skis you need to look at the density of the track before the temperature. At Fisher, you should not rely on the plus - cold inscriptions at all. The inscriptions indicate secondary parameters! Marking the structure on the tip of the ski is necessary and it is this that has the greatest relation to gliding! In shop skis, plus - cold is a type of plastic and structure and says nothing about the design. One Rossignol divides its skis depending on the density of the tracks into S1 and S2 types into dense and soft tracks. (the type of plastic is the same!) All professional skis have a distribution by design.

What are rolling skis?

The ones that go the farthest down the hill? Or those that are easier to roll uphill? There is a contradiction between sliding skis down the mountain and working the skis uphill, when the weight of the entire body is transferred to one ski. In both cases, the ski profile must match the track/weather, despite the very different load (as well as snow density and speed). On the descent, the weight is distributed over two skis; excessive rigidity is harmful. During the climb, each ski must support the weight of the entire body. Yes, plus the force of the foot push. Here only a compromise is possible; it is impossible to fully satisfy both requirements, although there are attempts. Fisher makes skis with very low initial flex. As compression increases, the rigidity increases sharply; we rest against a non-bending block. It cannot be pushed through by either ½ or the full weight of the skier. And often nothing at all! The skis behave like boards, but are easy to fit because they cover a wide range of weights. Skis go under almost everyone. But not in the best way. After all, the block should touch the snow at least when pushing with your foot. They are trying to make such skis in a sports workshop. Based on the barcode of each ski, you can find out its hardness in kilograms! This does not mean that they will suit all skiers with this weight and for all conditions. There are also preferences in technology, there is a specialization of skis according to the conditions of use. The amateur proportion between ski stiffness and skier weight is 0.9-1.0. For professionals it can be 1.1 (For pros, this hard pair is far from the only one). In any case, the coefficient depends not so much on the level of training of the athlete, but on the density of the route and its relief. There is no point in choosing hard skis for amateur skiing. (There is an exception - spring racing on coarse snow.) And skis that are too soft will not allow you to easily roll into the climbs. Fisher is the best brand for the amateur who can only afford one pair of skis and chooses it without equipment, by feel. The Fisher PLUS 610 design with NIS has been a best seller in recent seasons. Many people prefer the old RCS to the new RCS Carbonlite. For the Atomic Worldcup, the cold design is recommended as the only pair, as the most universal.

How many skis should an amateur skier taking part in competitions have?

If your competitions take place in one region, then you need skis with the following qualities:

“Asphalt” skis for low snow conditions. As a rule, former combatants, honored ones.
“Medium frost”, -1° -10°, soft track. B-plot.
“Warm” for hard snow. The choice between super-stiff skis with a BC-pattern and standard (your weight) skis with a C-pattern. In both cases, fitted skis are better. SP with fine structure. With additional knurling they are useful for water and coarse-grained snow, without it - for very dense, rolled-up “concrete” ski tracks, frost.
“Frosty”, colder than -12°, on a prepared ski track of medium density, without loose snow and “concrete”. Such skis must be carefully selected for the weight of the skier. After all, if for “warm” skis a change in load leads to a change in the position of short pressure humps, and may not worsen the glide at all, then for “frosty” skis the shape of the humps can be distorted, which, in fact, makes the skis frosty. It is always more difficult to obtain a diagram with flat, uniform humps than with sharp ones.

Point 2 is most in demand for amateurs, and it is advisable to duplicate it with exactly the same pair for testing lubricants. Total: 5 pairs, 3 of them combat. You won't be able to save on quantity, but you can save on money. When purchasing TOP skis from previous seasons' collections, we get savings of up to 50% without losing useful properties. The plot of the old model may be better than the new one. Even extra grams of weight will not overshadow the pleasure of good performance and excellent gliding of skis that suit the weather. You can make it a rule every year to buy a pair of last year's skis for the weather in which you skied poorly last season. It happens that a model of such and such year is unsuccessful, the company changed technology, but did not fully master it. This was the case when Fisher switched to the CAP design. Everything is already known about last year’s skis: a successful or unsuccessful model!

And of course, success is not measured by the number of medals. Only amateur reviews! The failure of your favorite company is a good reason to try other skis. There is no need to be afraid that a stale pair is obviously unsuccessful - if the store does not use complex measuring devices, then the percentage of winnings in the lottery where rolling skis are played out does not fall over time. After all, it’s difficult to understand the character of a ski without testing it on snow. In this regard, the emergence of the NIS system and factory filling of joint ventures with paraffin plays against amateurs. You can run into professional rejection of skis that look like brand new, but have already been tested on the ski track, especially since someone’s sports season may begin earlier than yours.

Cross-country skiing is divided into racing, amateur and touring. As a rule, the purpose is indicated in the product card.

Racing (marked Racing and Racing PRO). These skis are designed for athletes and amateurs who want to improve their speed. This is an option for specially prepared trails.
Amateur or recreational (Active, Fitness). This is an option for those who sometimes go for a ride in the park, do it for fun and do not strive for records. Skis are slightly wider than racing skis; expensive materials and technologies are rarely used in their production.
Tourist (Back Country). These are skis for hunters, tourists and fishermen, people who need to move around, without pistes or ski tracks. Such skis are much wider than recreational skis in order to support a person’s weight on loose snow.

Skis

Classic skis (designated Classic or Cl) are longer than skate skis, have a sharp toe and a soft last. There may be notches under the block (designated TR) that prevent slipping during repulsion. On the left is a ski with notches, on the right - without.

andrewskurka.com

If the ski does not have notches (designation WAX), a special ointment provides an anti-slip effect. However, it will be quite difficult for beginners to apply it correctly, so a ski with serrations will be the best option.

To choose the size of classic skis, add 20 cm to your height or simply raise your hand: the lowered palm of your outstretched arm should touch the top of the ski.

It is also worth paying attention to the stiffness of the skis. First, determine the center of gravity: place the ski on your hand so that both ends are in balance. Then fold the skis with the sliding side towards each other and squeeze with one hand 3 cm below the found center of balance. There will be a distance of 1–1.5 mm between skis of suitable stiffness.

What to buy

Boots

Boots for classic skis are low and soft, without special inserts to secure the foot.

You shouldn't buy boots back to back. If your big toe rests on the toe of the shoe, your foot will quickly freeze. Better take boots half a size larger.

What to buy

Sticks

When choosing poles for classic skating, pay attention to their length. With short ones, it will be uncomfortable for you to walk on flat terrain, with long ones, it will be uncomfortable to climb slopes. Select poles according to your height: the lanyard exit (the place where the strap is attached to the pole) should be at the level of your shoulder.

Poles are made from aluminum, fiberglass and carbon fiber. Aluminum ones can bend under load. So, if you weigh a lot, choose glass and carbon fiber. The latter provides the greatest rigidity and lightness of the poles. These poles are used by professional athletes.

marax.ru

Also pay attention to the material of the handle. Poles with cork handles are well suited for walking in cold weather: cork does not get cold on the hand, unlike plastic.

Skis

Skis for skating (designated Skate or Sk) are shorter and have a smooth last, since with this type of skiing the notches only get in the way, clinging to the snow and reducing speed.

To find the ideal length for skate skis, add 5–10 cm to your height.

It is also worth checking the stiffness of the skis. The gap between skis compressed with one hand should be 1.5–2 mm.

What to buy

Boots

To prevent injury and excessive stress on the foot during skating, additional support is needed. Therefore, skate boots are taller and stiffer than classic ones and are supplemented with a special plastic cuff.

What to buy

Sticks

Skating poles are longer than classic poles. The lanyard should be at the level of the skier's chin or lips.

How to choose all-mountain skis, boots and poles

If you plan to master both classic and skating, you can purchase universal equipment.

Skis

All-mountain skis (designated Combi) are longer than skate skis, but shorter than classic skis. To determine the required length, add 15 cm to your height.

As for knurling, some all-mountain skis have a replaceable center: if you want to ski in a classic style, use knurling; if in a ridge, remove the nozzle with notches.

What to buy

Boots

Boots for all-mountain skis are almost no different from classic ones. They are just as soft and flexible, but have a plastic cuff that supports the ankle.

What to buy

Sticks

For universal skis, poles are suitable for both classic and skating.

What types of fastenings are there?

Three types of mounts are now common: the legacy NN 75, NNN (with or without NIS platform) and SNS.

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Surely many remember this mount from childhood. This is an ordinary metal brace that fixes the leg, but it does it rather poorly.

With the NN 75 it is almost impossible to skate. In addition, they don’t make good boots for this mount. The only advantage is the low price.

What to buy

NNN (New Nordic Norm)

Automatic fastening NNN / spine.ru

This mount consists of two guides (flexors) located at some distance
from each other, and the rubber stop.

There are two options for such fastenings: automatic and mechanical. The automatic NNN mount snaps into place by simply pressing your boot onto the shackle. In the case of a mechanical one, you will have to open the lid with your hands, and after installing the boot, close it.

Mechanical fastenings NNN / manaraga.ru

However, the mechanical fastening is more reliable: it cannot accidentally come loose, for example, during a fall. Additionally, if you plan to ski in warm weather, water that gets into the automatic binding may freeze and cause a permanent blockage.

Also, the fastenings differ in the degree of rigidity. If the NNN rubber stop is white, the mount is intended for hard riding; if it is green, it is intended for softer riding. Black stops are suitable for standard skating, and red ones for soft skating.

If you prefer skating, choose bindings with white or green rubber bands. If classic - with black or red.

To install NNN on skis, you need to find the center of gravity and drill a hole for the mounts. However, there is a simpler and more convenient installation method: special NIS platforms.

Mount NNN NIS / dostupny-sport.ru

The Nordic Integrated System (NIS) was developed in 2005 for NNN mounts. Skis adapted for NIS are equipped with a special plate on which the binding is installed. There is no need to drill the skis, just slide the mount along the guide plates and click into place.

The mount is easy to install and remove, eliminates the need to search for the center of gravity of the ski and can be used with different pairs of skis.

What to buy

This is a mount with one wide guide and two brackets. SNS fasteners are also divided into automatic and mechanical.

shamov-russia.ru

Unlike NNN, SNS has only three levels of severity. They are marked with a numerical value and color. For a classic move, you should choose bindings with a flexor stiffness of 85 (yellow), for a skate - 115 (red), and for universal use - 95 (pink).

In terms of comfort, stability and lateral stability, there is little difference between SNS and NNN mounts.

Most cross-country ski boots are designed to fit a specific type of binding. Therefore, first choose boots that fit perfectly on your feet, and only then choose the bindings that fit them.

Due to NIS, NNN fasteners are more convenient to install, but SNS are more stable: due to the NNN platform, they are higher than SNS screwed on with screws. On the other hand, a higher position increases the force of the push. In general, both mounts are used by both amateur and professional athletes.

What to buy

What materials to choose

Skis made from solid timber or glued layers of wood are becoming a thing of the past. Modern models also use wood, but, as a rule, the core consists of it, and the sliding surface is made of plastic.

If you're used to skiing on wood skis, plastic may feel uncomfortable due to kickback. Plastic is more slippery and, unlike wood, does not “ruffle” when rubbing against snow.

However, with proper lubrication of plastic skis, it is quite possible to avoid kickback. As for the advantages, plastic skis are more durable and, unlike wooden skis, allow you to ski at above-zero temperatures.

According to the manufacturing method, skis are divided into Sandwich and Cap. The former are several layers of plastic and wood glued together, the latter are a wooden core with a monolithic plastic cover.

For cheaper skis, the core is made of wood with air channels. In professional and more expensive ones, it is a wooden honeycomb or made on the basis of acrylic foam with a mesh of carbon and fiberglass, lightweight polyurethane foam with carbon and fiberglass inserts (Polycell technology), Densolite foam or other lightweight synthetic materials.

The sliding surface is made from different types of plastic. For cheaper options, extruded plastic is used, for more expensive options, high molecular weight universal plastic is used.

Nowadays, many new technologies and materials are being used that keep skis light and at the same time provide strength. However, all this affects the price.

So if you're a beginner, it's worth trying a regular ski with a wood or Densolite foam core and an extruded or high molecular weight plastic skid surface. The price of such skis depends on the specific brand and ranges from 2,000 to 8,000 rubles.

What brands to pay attention to

Among the well-known Russian manufacturers is the STC factory. It makes both racing and recreational skis, the Sable, fiberglass ski poles.

Professional models have a honeycomb core and a PTEX 2000 (carbon fiber) sliding surface, and amateur models have a wooden core and a plastic coating. Skis are made using Cap technology and are sold at very affordable prices.

Among foreign brands (whose products are often produced in Russian factories, including STC), the Austrian ski and equipment manufacturer Fischer is quite popular.

Fischer produces men's, women's and children's professional and amateur skis, using combined materials such as a wooden core with Air Tec Basalight basalt fibers. Fischer skis can be purchased at prices starting from 5,000 rubles.

No less famous is the French ski brand Rossignol, whose production is located in Spain and Ukraine. The cheapest amateur skis with a light wood core and a plastic sliding surface can be bought for 5,500–6,000 rubles. Almost all skis of this brand are equipped with the NIS platform.

The third brand from the rating is the Norwegian company Madshus. Amateur skis of this brand are made using Cap technology with a wood core with channels, glass and carbon fiber braiding and a plastic sliding surface. The cost of the cheapest skis of this brand is 3,000–5,000 rubles.

Around the same price category, the cheapest amateur skis are from the Austrian brand Atomic and the French company Salomon. Cheaper Salomon models have a core made of dry Densolite foam and a sliding surface with the addition of graphite, while more expensive, professional ones have honeycomb cores and a sliding surface with the addition of zeolite.

Each brand develops its own technologies: lighter cores, adding various minerals to improve gliding, changing ski geometry. Therefore, it is best to focus on the purpose of the skis (for what purpose, recreational or sports) and the availability of a suitable length and stiffness for you.

A lot has been said about the role of ski preparation in biathletes’ starts, especially this topic became relevant after the World Championships in Nove Mesto 2013. The athletes’ lamentations about the fact that “...the skis didn’t work” prompted me to try to figure out how skis are selected for the upcoming season, how skis are prepared for a specific start. The experts in discussing this issue will be two-time Olympic champion Anna Bogaliy and, in my opinion, the best of the domestic service providers, Mikhail Koloskov, as well as former skier, and now an expert at Fisher in Russia, Alexander Zavyalov. Due to the fact that the majority of “collections” use Fisher skis, the emphasis is on skis of this brand.

According to the sliding surface, Fisher skis are divided into:

Cold models have a sliding surface
A5 - universal cold base at t -2C and below
Models Plus, S-track, Zero have a sliding surface
28 - universal warm base at t -5C and above
5 - warm base for old snow.

Alexander Zavyalov (A.Z.) “Warm and cold skis naturally have different bases. Warm base - 28th. There is a 5th base, but it is mainly on the water, and athletes of these skis usually have one pair each. What is the difference between plastic? Warm skis have a higher percentage of graphite. This is done to prevent so-called moisture leakage, since a higher percentage of graphite creates greater porosity of the sliding surface, which prevents moisture leakage. Warm skis also have softer socks and heels.

In cold skis, the percentage of graphite is lower, their sliding surface is smoother and has a slightly grayish tint. The design of cold skis is more rigid, designed for frosty, and, therefore, tougher slopes, and this is done so that the ski does not collect this snow underneath.”

Not every athlete outside the national team country can afford to have 10-20 pairs of skis. How to get out of this situation?

A.Z. — “If we take “warm” skis - with a 28 base (not every athlete can afford to have “warm”, “cold”, and “super-warm” skis at the same time), then with the help of knurling and creating an appropriate structure, we can solve the problem to different temperature conditions. It is very desirable, of course, that the knurling be pressing and not cutting. The result of the knurling work disappears after two or three treatments (applying and removing paraffin), and again the factory grinder remains. On “cold” Fisher skis there is a cold grind, on “warm” skis there is a universal one. Fisher skis are considered universal - you can easily cover the entire season with one or two pairs using knurling. Skis from other companies, for example, Madshus, are also very good, but they have a narrower temperature steinslift.”

The structure of the Fisher skis:

P10-1 below -5 old snow
C1-1 below -5 new natural snow, fine-grained
C3-1 below -5 artificial snow
S8-1 0-10 artificial
C12-1 below -5 natural snow
P1-1 +3-5 universal
P3-1 0 to warm, fresh snow
P3-2 wet snow
Р3-3 +5 to heat very wet spring snow
Р5-0 0-5 dry fine-grained snow
P5-1 0 to warm, very hard snow
Р5-9 0 wet, old snow for skis CL

So what is “ski structure”?

Mikhail Koloskov (M.K.) - "Hello! I will answer point by point: the structure of skis is a specially applied pattern on the surface of the ski, with a special stone installed on a grinding machine. Each pattern differs in shape and depth and corresponds to a specific snow structure (temperature, humidity, condition). Some structures have a very small temperature range, and since the ski slope is not uniform, i.e. There is a difference in the temperature and humidity of the snow in different areas, then when choosing a structure, you should take into account the ratio of the number of kilometers of the route corresponding to this structure. Therefore, sometimes an athlete wins in some parts of the track, but loses in others. So this year at the World Championships, the snow humidity in the stadium was 25%, and on the track 19%, and those who skied within the stadium lost on the far side of the distance. If you have sometimes noticed that only representatives of one company are on the pedestal. There are places where skis from some brand work well, i.e. this company has the best structure for this snow. Fischer has more than 15 structures for different snow conditions, Madshus has no more than 5.”

Structures and machine to apply a manual structure over the one already on the skis. It is not always used, only when it is really needed! Sometimes it worsens glide because it changes the signature pattern. The hand-made structure disappears after treatment with paraffin or iron, but the polish applied with stone does not disappear after heat treatment!

As athletes entering national team countries, work with ski manufacturing companies?

M.K. - “Each athlete enters into a contract with a specific company that more closely matches the athlete’s parameters. The contract then describes the prize money and the number of skis issued. The skis are worn out, the best ones remain, the rest can be exchanged for others. The company takes upon itself the responsibility of regrinding the skis, at the request of the athlete. This is what the servicers do.”

Anna Bogaliy (A. B.) — “Skis are selected at the factory for each individual. Taking into account the height and weight characteristics, as well as the service team, at the beginning of the season, they help determine what “goes”... Change what is “worth it”)) This is a very delicate process. In general, skiing is a lot of work! Luck is also important: sometimes a pair is not new, but rides very well! But the new ones “stand”. They carried everything in different ways: from 8-10 pairs, to 20, and even some over several years, a collection of different structures and models... 25-30 pairs each. It all depends on the skis, brand and level of the athlete (very individual). “Everyone chooses their own skis (with whom to work from among the companies) and concludes individual contracts.”

In the first picture are Fisher skis (not tested), in the second - tested by servicers.

How does the preparation of selecting skis for a specific take place? race?

M.K. - “Preparing skis for a specific race is a very difficult and long process. Firstly, the servicer looks at the weather forecast for the day of the race, according to this, the day before the race, preferably during the start of the athlete, a certain number of skis are rolled out according to the weather, usually from six to ten or more pairs of skis. This is usually done by the servicer, sometimes together with the athlete. It is better to carry out skiing along the entire route, because the quality of snow varies in different areas. It is necessary to select skis that work stably throughout the entire route, these are 4-8 pairs. The servicer walks 20 to 30 km a day. All selected skis are washed with paraffin and prepared for skiing immediately before the race.

On race day, the first thing to do is measure the temperature and humidity of the snow and air. On special (test) skis, usually 20 pairs for testing powder and 10 paraffin, lubricant options for a given day are applied. 2-2.5 hours before the start, the athletes’ skis and test skis are taken out for skiing. First, the skis of the athletes roll away, i.e. one best pair is selected that best matches the weather conditions and the snow. Skis are also selected on the entire slope and tested at speed because at speed all skis perform differently. When the athlete's best pair is selected, servicers begin choosing a lubricant option (paraffin, powder, accelerator, manual structure). Tests are also carried out along the entire route. 1 hour before the start of the race, all selected skis are taken to the box, where the best type of lubricant is applied to the athlete’s best pair. If there are two races a day, then everything is repeated from the beginning. After the race, all used skis are washed and sanitized.”

What skis do the athletes invited to compete on? World Cup By results performances at the IBU Cup and Russian competitions? What happened in Antholz when Katya Yurieva, after finishing (93rd place in the sprint), angrily said: “Who needs wood to light the fireplace?”

M.K. — “Each servicer is assigned 2-4 athletes, he is responsible for the selection and preparation of the skis of his charges. Athletes who came from the IBU Cup have their own set of skis, which sometimes do not quite meet the requirements. Although the companies are accommodating and issue additional pairs to athletes participating in the World Cup stages.

Yurieva competed on her own skis in Antholz; a foreign team was responsible for selection and preparation, so I can’t say anything specific about this race. Pichler and Rostovtsev were against Katya’s participation in the stages, so draw your own conclusions(although... the German said that he was happy about Katya’s victories at KIBU and was glad to invite her to the national team. Once again, the German was caught in a lie... author’s note ). And when they found out that she trusts the Russian service more, then...”

P.S. If you have any more questions for our experts, ask during the discussion of the topic.

What is "suction"?

During a multi-day winter hike, tourists constantly have to make many hours of ski treks over flat and rough terrain, slide down and climb slopes of varying steepness, walk on virgin soil, walking in a thickness of snow that reaches up to one meter. Experienced tourists and skiers know very well that they don’t ride or even run on tourist skis, but walk. Yes, yes, they do! Therefore, you should not be surprised that the speed they are capable of developing is by no means their main quality. What's the main thing?

Much more important are reliability, maneuverability, lack of kickback and sticking (snow sticking to the “sole” of skis), as well as the correct selection of skis for a particular person.

How to choose touring skis for hiking?

Touring skis are personal sports equipment; they are selected individually, and the comfort of the entire trip depends on how correctly this is done, both for their owner and for the entire group. It is generally accepted that skis should be as long as a person with his arm raised up, and the poles should reach the armpits.

But I have a different opinion. I choose skis according to the formula - height plus 10 - 15 cm. And then it becomes more convenient to control them on descents and ascents, as well as in the bushes. The poles should be shoulder-length, because... they are partially buried under the snow, because, unlike a ski trip, the hike most often takes place off the beaten track. These selection rules apply to all models and types of skis, both plastic and wooden.

Useful articles:

Traditional, wooden skis

Skis "Beskid". In Soviet times, “Beskid” - tourist skis, were almost impossible to buy in a store. I bought them secondhand, already in a “similar” condition, and appreciated them on my first trip. Well-tarred and rubbed with silver ointment, they roll no worse than cross-country racers through the forest and mountains.

Their advantages are reliability and excellent controllability on the ski track and on the descent due to the steel edge. I climbed all the Khibiny mountains in them, I can say that I don’t yet know any better skis for tourism. Their “average” width of 75 mm is also pleasing - they are not as wide as the “Forest” ones and not as narrow as the running ones. Of the shortcomings, probably, the only thing that can be noted is that during a thaw it can become sticky, like all wooden ones.

update from 12/03/2013 After all, Mayak launched the production of Beskid skis. True, they are sold only by the manufacturer itself upon order and with prepayment. The application can be left in the ski factory group “VKontakte”. Cost 4500 rub. + cost of delivery by transport company (for example, delivery to St. Petersburg costs 500 rubles)

Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 75 mm
Price: approx. 4500 rub.
Recommendations: the best skis for touring

Skis "Forest". I walked a lot on these skis, both through the forest for which they were intended, and across the mountains, and across the bare, endless tundra. If the route goes through the forest, then “Forest” in this case is one of the best options, especially if there is a lot of walking. But on rough terrain they are heavier. When descending, they are almost uncontrollable, so there is a chance of sliding not only in front, but also sideways or backwards. The herringbone rise is also complicated - due to the width, “Lesnye” is difficult to place on its edge. Because of it, problems arise when moving on the ski track - you simply cannot fit into it.

I went to Lesnye and along the Pansky tundra on Kola. On the third day, their sliding surface turned into a slab - the wood from which they are made is too soft. And one more drawback - “Forest” ones often burst from the heel side - along, along the glued layers. But, nevertheless, “Lesnye” served their purpose with dignity. In a situation where there was a shortage of Beskids, there were no other options other than choosing Lesnye tourist skis. Previously, they were produced in Novgorod, today they are made in Kirov, at the Mayak plant, as well as at the Vologda ski factory. I didn’t have a chance to go to the last two manufacturers’ “Lesny” ones. Currently, this model is practically not used by tourists I know.

Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 110 mm
Price: 1500 - 1900 rub.
Recommendations: hiking in the forest, fishing, hunting

Touring skis "Tourist - Mayak". Skis “Tourist - Mayak” are essentially the same “Beskid” remake, but without edges. I have already tested them. I can say that the skis are good for their price - 1500 rubles. Quite strong. The correct width is 75 mm, there are three types: 180 cm, 190 cm and 200 cm. The first two “heights” are actually 176 and 186, the latter I have not seen in stores, but it is in the Mayak price list. Just like there is a wood-plastic variety of “Tourist”, which costs 100 rubles. more expensive than the wooden one I use.

Skis are suitable for those who are going to buy them for one to one and a half seasons. Then, the edges of the skis will be rounded. If, of course, they even survive until then. In general, a normal budget option.

Characteristics
Material: wood, wood-plastic
Width: 75 mm
Price: 1500 – 1700 rub.
Recommendations: for those who want to try their hand at ski tourism

Soldier's or, as they are also called, army skis are another miracle of the defense industry. These are ordinary touring skis made of soft wood, i.e. their edges wear off quickly. I had to be a little like them. I was surprised that I have never seen them smaller than 220 cm. Probably, the army, when ordering these skis, believes that our soldiers are just grenadiers. In general, because of such a length, it is very difficult to walk through the forest in them, and when climbing like a herringbone, you step on your own heels.

Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 75 mm
Price: issued free of charge to defenders of the fatherland
Recommendations: use only if there are no alternatives

As a rule, “seasoned tourists” - adherents of the “old school” - walk on the “wooden trees”, noting their main advantages - the almost complete absence of recoil and the absence of the need to use expensive and capricious ointments. Young people and innovators are advocating a departure from ossified tradition, believing that the future of ski tourism lies in plastic. However, my personal experience suggests otherwise.

Useful articles:

Skis "Beskid"
Skis "Forest"
Skis "Tourist"
Ski tour
Camus for skis

Hiking on plastic tourist skis

Cross-country skiing. Cross-country skis are sometimes used as touring skis. And they are quite suitable if it is a simple hike - a weekend or lasting a couple of days, through a wooded area with well-established ski tracks. You just need to take into account that if the skis are plastic, then you need ointment for the appropriate temperature (especially ointment for recoil), which you also need to be able to select, and also quickly change when the weather changes. Otherwise, the ski trip will be remembered “not in a kind way” and for a very long time.

Characteristics
Material: plastic
Width: 60-65 mm
Price: from 1500 rub.
Recommendations: You can go on short and easy hikes

Skiing. In those days when it was impossible to buy high-quality tourist skis, mountain skis were adapted for hiking. I have little experience using alpine skis. I went to see them in Khibiny a couple of times. The skis were called "Polsport". They handle well, but, like all plastic ones, there is a danger of “missing the ointment.” In general, it’s not bad if you carry around a set of anti-recoil ointment and a cycle to remove the old ointment.

My use of alpine skis on hikes ended when, while crossing a hole washed out by a stream, I stood with all my weight on the ski and broke it in the block. But the problems didn't end there. Having decided to use its front part, I began to rearrange the mount. But it was not there. It looks like the ski was reinforced with a metal plate on top. The screws didn't work.

Characteristics
Material: plastic and metal edging
Width: 70-75 mm
Price: from 8000 rub.
Recommendations: only classic alpine skis are suitable (almost not fitted), ointments for all weather conditions or a skin are required.

Touring plastic skis with scales. This is another option for plastic touring skis. They are produced under several trademarks, for example, under the “Equipment” TM. I would like to note that the scales only work on ski tracks or crust; on loose snow they are of no use, but the problem with ointments is also relevant. There are several standard “sizes” - 170, 180, 190, 200 mm.

Characteristics
Material: plastic sliding surface and plastic decorative coating
Width: 70, 100 mm
Price: 3800-4500 rub.
Recommendations: ointments and camus are required

Dressy skis like ski touring with camus. I've only used ski touring skis and boots once, maybe I didn't try them out the first time, but I wasn't comfortable. The foot is very rigid, like in a ski boot. Apparently, a special step needs to be developed. But there are also obvious advantages: the camus holds up even on a steep climb, you can forget about the “herringbone” and “ladder” ones. The descent is almost like skiing. Well, another significant drawback is the high price of the kit.

Dmitry Ryumkin especially for